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Hyd. lift issue on Agco Allis 918

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So, I go out to blow snow this morning, and about half way thru the job, when I push the hyd. lift lever forward, the blower drops about an inch and then will not go down any further.  After playing a bit, I discovered that if I open my cab front and push the lever all the way forward, which is about 8 inches at the handle ahead of where the cab stops it, then it drops.  After doing this, it works again as it had for a while, then does it again.  I never had to push the handle that far forward before.  After it got parked in the garage, I again played with it a bit, and if I push the handle ahead to where it hits the cab, then push down on the valve body shaft , it pushes down and drops the blower.  So, I have two questions.  First, how is this supposed to be working?  I assume back is raise, ahead from there is hold, ahead more is down.  Is there a float position maybe?  Or do I have linkage or valve body problems?  Second, does this machine have a float position and if so, where is it?  The tractor was a save from the recycler, has lots of use and wear.  But, it runs decent and everything works ok, up until this.  

Anyone have a fix or a guess of what is going on?  This is on an Agco Allis 918, same as sovereign, 18 hp Kohler command engine, hydro tranny.



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First, no float on the newer machines - that's why the lift arm is spring loaded to give some "float".

I would guess you have a "bellcrank" problem.  I've had it and it is fairly common.  

The bellcrank is a small lever that's on the other side of the hydro lift handle; it links to the hydro lift valve.  It's gold in color at the top right of this pic:


There's a rectangular slot in the bellcrank and with time it gets wallered out and when this happens, the symptoms you describe occur.  You may be lucky and find the nut holding the bell crank on is loose, but don't count on it.  

The bell crank is part #1667261.  You might be able to flip the bellcrank so it has a better mounting surface and it'll work for a while, but a new one is best.  The issue is, it's a bear to install with the engine in the tractor.  There's just not a lot of working room.  I replaced one a couple years ago on my "mechanic" daughter's tractor.  Her small hands and fingers made the job much easier.  I'm not sure I could have done it without her help.  Hopefully you have a heated work area or I'd think the job is near impossible.  


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Thanks guys!

I think the bellcrank is the culprit.  Just got in from the garage, which is NOT heated, from checking it out.  The previous owner put a bigger flat washer on against the bellcrank, I am assuming because it is worn out, and just tightened it up hard. I tightened it a bit more and it is working for now, but will order a couple of them and replace.  And yes, it looks like a real pain to get in there.  I found I can get a wrench on the nut, and then pull the handle just enough to turn it until I can grab the next tooth, but that will take forever to take the nut off.  I am not going to pull the engine tho, I had that thing out half a dozen times during the summer and am tired of lifting it.  I am thinking I might be able to come thru from the other side with a few extensions and a wobble joint on the socket.  Will see, but thanks for the fast and, as always, great advice!


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1 hour ago, steve-wis said:

I am thinking I might be able to come thru from the other side with a few extensions and a wobble joint on the socket. 

Yes you can as can be seen in this pic from when we were scoping out the job on the daughter's tractor:


The nasty issue is the chain link - getting the keeper off is hard, getting it back on even more so.  


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