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rockfangd

Simplicity 4211 Wont Run

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rockfangd

Hi All.

Just before winter I acquired a simplicity 4000 series tractor. with a briggs 11hp engine

I put my 36" snowblower attachment on it. 

The original engine would not run so the previous owner swapped it out for a 13.5 hp Briggs which ran good.

He was mowing with it and the brake locked up at the transmission and long story short ended up with a hole in the block.

He was done with it so I took it over.

I reinstalled the original engine. Rebuilt the Carbeurator, It was pretty bad in the bowl.

I was able to get it running a few times but not enough to even be able to drive it far. It would cut right off like someone shut the key off. 

Last week I pulled the coil and found it has the points and condenser system. It was all rusted. So I decided to try swapping to the 13.5s coil. (bolted on but not sure if it is compatible), sanded the flywheel up nicely. I wanted to pull the plug but of course I grabbed the wrong size socket

When the engine cranks over it starts to drip fuel from the overflow on the carbeurator. It will not fire on aid either.

I intend to get my spark checker to find out for sure but I don't get much free time between jobs.

I am curious how I could find the correct conversion coil to do away with the points system as I have a feeling they are shot.

And what might the spark plug be? The one currently installed is likely contaminated if it has not been firing and may still not fire with the replacement coil until I clean it, but would just rather replace it.

I would like to try this tractor before winter is over if I can. I will say that when I heard it run that it seemed to run good once it got past the cold start.

Any insight is highly appreciated. Thanks all

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dhoadley

I'd get a Nova II module to replace the points and condenser. Cheap and simple, then see about spark. If still no spark, then coil. That's how I'd go at it, But I really don"t know what I'm doing. dz

  • Haha 1

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rockfangd

So tonight I managed to pull the spark plug. It was all wet.

The only number I could get off was a 4 and the fact it says made in china (reassuring)

I then plugged the plug into the coil and let it hang. The battery was low but I did manage to see it spark.

Looked white when it sparked. So at least I know there is some spark now.

Any idea what the compression should be? Maybe I need to check that as well

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kwt
On 2/2/2019 at 8:18 PM, rockfangd said:

I reinstalled the original engine. Rebuilt the Carbeurator, It was pretty bad in the bowl.

 

When the engine cranks over it starts to drip fuel from the overflow on the carbeurator. It will not fire on aid either.

 

Any insight is highly appreciated. Thanks all

You still have carb troubles. Obviously the float needle isn't seating. Bad float or valve or float adjustment.

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kwt
On 2/3/2019 at 7:49 AM, dhoadley said:

I'd get a Nova II module to replace the points and condenser. Cheap and simple, then see about spark. If still no spark, then coil. That's how I'd go at it, But I really don"t know what I'm doing. dz

And if you use the nova module, you need to use a points/condenser/OEM type coil. Don't let someone tell you that you need an electronic ignition coil. They are not compatible.

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rockfangd

Thank you for the replies.

So when I rebuilt the carb I verified the float was level when the needle was seated.

I also blew air through the inlet while I manipulated the float. It worked fine when tested. 

But yes it does seem odd that it does drip fuel while it is cranking but not starting

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MrSteele

If you have spark, then you do not have ignition problems. Personally, I would install a new set of points and a condenser, a new flywheel key and put it back together. I have an 11 HP engine on a Dixon mower that has been running well on the points I put in it on a rebuild over 10 years ago. You could also install the Nova module, but, again, if you have a spark at all, it is not likely a coil issue. With a sheared key, you will have spark, but at the wrong time. A sheared key does not imply that the key is sheared in two pieces, just a small amount of indentation on the key is enough to make it out of time.

When you put the bowl back on the carburetor, did you leave the fiber washer/gasket off? Without that gasket, the adjustment needle bottoms out in the jet, there will be no fuel flow into the system, and the bowl will leak.

If the float is too high, your fuel leak will be around the top of the bowl, with or without the gasket at the top of the bowl. Those gaskets are famous for tearing apart when removing the bowl. Float level is: level the top of the float with the bottom of the housing when the carburetor is turned upside down, with the float installed. I always set my floats a little low to level, never high, to prevent those leaks.

Add those problems to a bad plug, and you have an engine that will not run. Solve them, and use til something else pops up

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rockfangd

So float is level, if not just a hair under.

Gasket is new. Replaced it with the rebuild.

Fuel does not leak from the bowl but rather the porous brass at the end of the carb. (prevents pooling in the carb)

Maybe when spring comes I may find a little more time to get it running.

I have had it running a few times, once it starts warming up it runs fine.

But this last time I could not get it to run

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