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jsciutto

Hydro Lift Valve

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jsciutto

Hello,  I'm trying to put new seals in the hydraulic lift valve.  I don't see how to remove the block between the two 90 degree fittings on the right side in the photo.  The documentation I've seen shows this as a threaded plug, but there are no flats or any other way to rotate.  I've put slight pressure using channel locks, but don't want to mess it up.

Any ideas or experience with these?

20190210_074313.jpg

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PhanDad

Usually the parts IPL or Repair Manual will answer your type of questions, but I don't see anything that will help.  In case you don't have either, the Parts manual info (from MFG#1692889 tractor):

image.thumb.png.bc19a87c0c268c8debef3672d3b0de4e.png

image.thumb.png.7b3455ee5bb29d9cbfa6e651a145e1dd.png

From the repair manual:

image.thumb.png.d6f800aaad35ef597f022d96ebfe055a.png

image.thumb.png.ea24eb10ac00a58150911bb9b187d2e1.png

Hopefully someone that's taken one apart will answer your question.

 

 

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Jim J

I am looking at possibly do the same thing . My question is when this is pulled to release does it need the weight of the deck or plow to help it go down or is it under power?what is yours doing that you want to rebuild it? having issues with my retrofit coming down it only goes up?

Edited by Jim J
added content

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PhanDad
6 hours ago, Jim J said:

My question is when this is pulled to release does it need the weight of the deck or plow to help it go down or is it under power?

Hydraulic lift is powered in both directions.  

(But I think pushing hydro lever forward lowers and pulling back raises - opposite of your statement)

PS - We're talking about the RBT 7100 series and newer hydro lift, not the old FDT hydro lift.

 

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kwt

The way I read FanDad's diagrams is that one version has an external wrench flat, and another version has a cap (#11 in fig. 1) that most likely covers an allen wrench hex hole. 

 

"4. Remove button (11, figure 1) and cap (10 figure 1) from control body."

Edited by kwt
quoted text from manual

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jsciutto

Cap came right out.  Allen wrench took fitting out.  The retaining ring was a bit of an issue, but cleaned out, and installed new seals.  Easily returns to center from both directions.  Schematic diagram was very valuable for re-assembly.  Thanks for getting me pointed in the right direction.

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jsciutto

Hello again,  re-assembling and wanted get information on how tight the master link should be in the lift valve actuator.  When taking it apart it was very tight.  Now it fits like I think a master link should.  Should the fit be tight to better transfer the load from the lift lever to the valve?  I can see where excessive movement could not shift the valve properly.

Thanks

Lift vavle.jpg

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PhanDad
1 hour ago, jsciutto said:

re-assembling and wanted get information on how tight the master link should be in the lift valve actuator.  When taking it apart it was very tight.  Now it fits like I think a master link should.  Should the fit be tight to better transfer the load from the lift lever to the valve?

The master links in any that I've messed with have been loose, not tight at all.

I'd invest in a new bell crank; the sides are supposed to be straight.  

IMO, it not replaced, the hydro lift lever will be going past where it should as described in this post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/62225-hyd-lift-issue-on-agco-allis-918/

 

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rbstuartjr

Did you have to pull the motor to get the valve assembly out? 

Just ask8ng because there is a lot of play in my control lever and might be worn bell crank. I’ve read that you have to pull engine to get bell crank out. I was thinking of pulling the valve instead and doing it that way.

Edited by rbstuartjr
Add info to pst

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jsciutto

This is a new system to my tractor.  In talking to the gentleman I bought it from, he indicated the lines would be the biggest challenge.  Was pulling items out today to restore and there seemed to be a decent amount of room.  I'd take the foot rest off just to make a little easier access (1 bolt, 2 carriage bolts).

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