jsciutto Posted February 11, 2019 Posted February 11, 2019 Hello, I'm trying to put new seals in the hydraulic lift valve. I don't see how to remove the block between the two 90 degree fittings on the right side in the photo. The documentation I've seen shows this as a threaded plug, but there are no flats or any other way to rotate. I've put slight pressure using channel locks, but don't want to mess it up. Any ideas or experience with these?
PhanDad Posted February 11, 2019 Posted February 11, 2019 Usually the parts IPL or Repair Manual will answer your type of questions, but I don't see anything that will help. In case you don't have either, the Parts manual info (from MFG#1692889 tractor): From the repair manual: Hopefully someone that's taken one apart will answer your question.
jsciutto Posted February 11, 2019 Author Posted February 11, 2019 Thanks, I had seen the diagram but not the step by step. I think I'll grind flats on it and try to unscrew it.
Jim J Posted February 11, 2019 Posted February 11, 2019 (edited) I am looking at possibly do the same thing . My question is when this is pulled to release does it need the weight of the deck or plow to help it go down or is it under power?what is yours doing that you want to rebuild it? having issues with my retrofit coming down it only goes up? Edited February 12, 2019 by Jim J added content
PhanDad Posted February 12, 2019 Posted February 12, 2019 6 hours ago, Jim J said: My question is when this is pulled to release does it need the weight of the deck or plow to help it go down or is it under power? Hydraulic lift is powered in both directions. (But I think pushing hydro lever forward lowers and pulling back raises - opposite of your statement) PS - We're talking about the RBT 7100 series and newer hydro lift, not the old FDT hydro lift.
kwt Posted February 12, 2019 Posted February 12, 2019 (edited) The way I read FanDad's diagrams is that one version has an external wrench flat, and another version has a cap (#11 in fig. 1) that most likely covers an allen wrench hex hole. "4. Remove button (11, figure 1) and cap (10 figure 1) from control body." Edited February 12, 2019 by kwt quoted text from manual
jsciutto Posted February 12, 2019 Author Posted February 12, 2019 Good point on the cap. There is a metal end on the plug. I will check this out further - may have to grind it out. Thanks for the information.
jsciutto Posted February 16, 2019 Author Posted February 16, 2019 Cap came right out. Allen wrench took fitting out. The retaining ring was a bit of an issue, but cleaned out, and installed new seals. Easily returns to center from both directions. Schematic diagram was very valuable for re-assembly. Thanks for getting me pointed in the right direction. 2
jsciutto Posted February 21, 2019 Author Posted February 21, 2019 Hello again, re-assembling and wanted get information on how tight the master link should be in the lift valve actuator. When taking it apart it was very tight. Now it fits like I think a master link should. Should the fit be tight to better transfer the load from the lift lever to the valve? I can see where excessive movement could not shift the valve properly. Thanks
PhanDad Posted February 21, 2019 Posted February 21, 2019 1 hour ago, jsciutto said: re-assembling and wanted get information on how tight the master link should be in the lift valve actuator. When taking it apart it was very tight. Now it fits like I think a master link should. Should the fit be tight to better transfer the load from the lift lever to the valve? The master links in any that I've messed with have been loose, not tight at all. I'd invest in a new bell crank; the sides are supposed to be straight. IMO, it not replaced, the hydro lift lever will be going past where it should as described in this post: https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/62225-hyd-lift-issue-on-agco-allis-918/
GregB Posted February 21, 2019 Posted February 21, 2019 Maybe could be welded then filed to bring back the flats to fit if you cannot source a good one.
jsciutto Posted February 22, 2019 Author Posted February 22, 2019 Hi, new crank is on order - I didn't want to mess with welding/re-cutting
rbstuartjr Posted February 22, 2019 Posted February 22, 2019 (edited) Did you have to pull the motor to get the valve assembly out? Just ask8ng because there is a lot of play in my control lever and might be worn bell crank. I’ve read that you have to pull engine to get bell crank out. I was thinking of pulling the valve instead and doing it that way. Edited February 22, 2019 by rbstuartjr Add info to pst
jsciutto Posted February 23, 2019 Author Posted February 23, 2019 This is a new system to my tractor. In talking to the gentleman I bought it from, he indicated the lines would be the biggest challenge. Was pulling items out today to restore and there seemed to be a decent amount of room. I'd take the foot rest off just to make a little easier access (1 bolt, 2 carriage bolts).
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