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wwbragg

Rear PTO Yoke

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wwbragg

Of what material is part no 7 made?  Parts tree wants $12 each and of course you need two.  But it seems that a nylon busing from the hardware store ( @ $0.59 each) would work would work just fine.  I also bought brass bushings but they seem TOO hard.  What do y'all think?

yoke.png

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PhanDad

Not sure exactly sure what tractor that IPL is from, but it looks very much to be the same design Simplicity used on the early FDT tractors to attachment the engine to the driveshaft.  He's a pic of my B-110:

IMG_2228.thumb.jpg.967cf2fa74ec680a68cb18cee97a1e4d.jpg

Here 2 spacers are used; they are 3/8"ID x 3/4" OD x 1/2" long.  There is no special washer between the spacers and the flex disk.  They are made from plain steel, so I would think the brass ones you bought would be fine.  

In your IPL, I'm guessing part #3 is the "special washer" Simplicity normally used against the flex disk.  In the above setup, they are on each side of the flex disk where the driveshaft attaches, but only on the bolt side of the connection to the engine. 

 

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Talntedmrgreen

Phil turned me on to hardware store nylon bushings, trimmed down to fit, and so far, I have a couple years of use on some with no visible wear.  My originals were worn and gone.  I think the nylon material does the trick nicely.  

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phillobbezoo

The hardware nylon bushings work great, haven’t switched any out since last spring but I believe there 3/4 o.d. With a 1/2” hole in the center. The ones I use I have to run a 1/2” drill bit thru them to get the collar bolt thru. Ive had a set in a tractor for the last 6 years, and they’ve held up great! 

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wwbragg
4 hours ago, PhanDad said:

what tractor

The tractor is a Powermax 9020.  The bushings in question fit into the Rear PTO yoke.  Glad to know I can use Nylon - - a lot less $$.  THX guys.

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ShaunE

Nylon is a viable option without question.  But what is $24 in the grand scheme of things on a "restoration"?  Yes it adds up over time but the you're talking about something that has already lasted 40 years. 

Contact @mnoonan42 about what he & the other Mike are using in the rear PTO kits.  They are both very good friends of mine.  There are six of those bushings used in that tractor in various places.

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Bill725

PhanDad, I would like to suggest putting the thick washers on both sides of the fiber disc with the rounded side towards the disc and the burr side away. This would prevent the machined edge of the spacer from tearing a hole in the disc.

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PhanDad

@Bill725,  I agree that the "special" thick washers should be used on both sides of the fiberglass disk.  That's what I do - but for some reason, the old FDT setup didn't do it at the engine.  I never understood why. 

5c6830ca5b5e5_B110PartsPg4.thumb.JPG.61cca2ef12593742bf4624f410ab5dd6.JPG

5c6830cce392d_B110PartsPg5.thumb.JPG.09f8dff07784e229b63aa59fa2765072.JPG

 

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wwbragg

I totally agree - - -fat washers on both sides of the disk.  But that is not the question.  The 2177943sm bushings in my picture above are PRESSED INTO the 3/4" holes in the yoke.  The yoke has a raised surface on the disk side in lieu of fat washers on that side.  All other bolt holes require the fat washers (item 3 in the parts list) or spacers (item 1 in the parts list) shown in the parts list.

The bolt that goes through the yoke/bushing assembly, has a 1/2 shoulder that fits tightly in the bushing so the bushing absorbs some of the vibration and torque from the engine.

Edited by wwbragg
clarify
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ShaunE
8 hours ago, PhanDad said:

I agree that the "special" thick washers should be used on both sides of the fiberglass disk.  That's what I do - but for some reason, the old FDT setup didn't do it at the engine.  I never understood why. 

You are correct.  I machined off .065" if I remember correctly of the spacer to make sure there was adequate room to add the washers in case there wasn't enough room to slide the BGB yolk farther rearward.  This is more critical if there is the addition of a Hydro-Lift pulley.

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