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rfsmith1952

Remove the shroud

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rfsmith1952

Hi, Haven't been on here for a few years. I am still involved with these old tractors. I have a 12 hp Homelite that PhanDad gave me a 16hp engine for, and I recently picked up an FD AC 110 with a hydro lift. Well, the Homelite stopped running recently. I diagnosed it as no spark. I want to check the magneto, so I must remove the shroud. My question is: must I remove the engine to get the shroud off?

Thanks

Bob

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B10Dave

Yes Bob; the engine will have to come out to get the tin off. I know you were hoping otherwise.First make sure the wire to the points isn't grounded and turn the engine by hand with the plug out while holding a finger on the points to make sure they close once every revolution. Some times the plunger will wear to the point it won't open the points. Have fun with it.

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rfsmith1952

Thanks Dave. I figured so. Points were opening and closing okay. When I first got the engine from PhanDad I had to clean and reset the magneto before it would start. So my brain says that where the issue is, maybe a broken wire. It did run well and strong for about two years. Great increase in power from a weak 12 to a strong 16. Thanks again.

 

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PhanDad

Glad to see you back on the site.  

As Dave suggested, make sure the "kill" wire isn't grounded somewhere (wire rub); the wire should only be grounded when the ignition switch is off.  

It's a bummer having to pull the engine.  

 

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rfsmith1952

Yes, I am thinking now that checking the magneto may be be premature. I looked at the points tonite, they are buggered up, along with the adjustment screw. Maybe I will order a new set of points and check the electrics.

A lot has happened, primarily, my wife of 42 years passed away last April. Still crawling out of that mess. I may be moving in the spring, which may signify the end of the tractor stuff. I will let you know in case you want any of it. I do have a BGB for you. The T-12 will go, that is a hydro. I also have an AC B110, which is a great little gear tractor. They both have decks and plows.The B110 has a hydraulic lift on it too.

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PhanDad

Sorry to hear about the passing of your wife.  Hopefully things will continue to improve.

Rather than buy another set of points, you might want to try one of the electronic ignition modules that don't require the flywheel to be repolarized.  I have a one on my T-12 and it's been great:

MegaFire_Mounted1.thumb.jpg.a8326db8300dcf272d6486a9f1666fbd.jpg

MegaFireBox.jpg.df2dfc34ba54bb3836b8d6ff3e5342ad.jpg

MegaFire_Directions.jpg.7fc6e05f6302739fb46dea6eeb32d0a7.jpg

 

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dhoadley
10 hours ago, rfsmith1952 said:

I tried that on the t-10 and would not work. I do have two of them laying around though. Worth a shot

They only work one way. I got no spark initially, switched the wires and its been bullet proof ever since. ( on a 70's 3hp B&S rototiller)

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BLT

When they first come out (1980's ?) I bought a few Mega - Fires and installed one on my 7010. There was a problem of the engine backfiring on start up, so I disconnected the condenser and wired it up thru the points  and bingo, the backfiring problem went away.

MegaFireBriggsc.jpg

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joelk

I would definitely try the electronic module again.  I have two 3112 and they are the best thing for starting/running reliably.  I used to have trouble starting any time a hint of moisture would get on the points, but never a problem with the electronic modules.  I have one on for almost 20 years now, and it still works great.  

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rfsmith1952
On 2/17/2019 at 9:22 AM, BLT said:

When they first come out (1980's ?) I bought a few Mega - Fires and installed one on my 7010. There was a problem of the engine backfiring on start up, so I disconnected the condenser and wired it up thru the points  and bingo, the backfiring problem went away.

MegaFireBriggsc.jpg

I disconnected the wire from the condenser, connected that to the device as per the diagram that comes with it. It did not work on the T-10 and still does not work on the 16hp in the T-12

Screen Shot 2019-02-18 at 10.07.44 AM.png

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rfsmith1952
On 2/17/2019 at 6:21 AM, dhoadley said:

They only work one way. I got no spark initially, switched the wires and its been bullet proof ever since. ( on a 70's 3hp B&S rototiller)

Still doesn't work. I am going to switch the wires

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rfsmith1952
On 2/16/2019 at 10:57 AM, PhanDad said:

Sorry to hear about the passing of your wife.  Hopefully things will continue to improve.

Rather than buy another set of points, you might want to try one of the electronic ignition modules that don't require the flywheel to be repolarized.  I have a one on my T-12 and it's been great:

MegaFire_Mounted1.thumb.jpg.a8326db8300dcf272d6486a9f1666fbd.jpg

MegaFireBox.jpg.df2dfc34ba54bb3836b8d6ff3e5342ad.jpg

MegaFire_Directions.jpg.7fc6e05f6302739fb46dea6eeb32d0a7.jpg

 

this is the one I have: 

https://www.ebay.com/i/250896304183?chn=ps

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PhanDad

Should do the trick unless it's defective.  

The Homelite has a negative ground system, so it should be wired up as shown in the top pic the instructions I posted.  

I'd make sure the wire(s) up to the mag aren't grounded when the ignition key is "on" and you cut the wire from the points to attach to the electronic ignition module (before you connect it).  If the wire shows it's grounded, then there's probably a wire rub under the tin.  

  

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PhanDad

A couple more detail pics of the wiring of the MegaFire wiring on my Homelite:

MegaFire_Wiring1.thumb.JPG.18adc3efc1731cba17a2c61e27cd9ee9.JPG

MegaFire_Wiring2.thumb.JPG.d19ca74f56fec9a17f199065f9aff4cd.JPG

I disconnected the wire that went to the points and used a wire nut to connect to the wire from the Megafire unit.  You can still see the gob of sealant on the wire from where it went through the points cover.  One of these days I'll replace the wire nut, but it's been running fine with the wire nut for years.  In the earlier pics, you can see a cable tie, the only thing it does is keep the wire nut connection from leaning out from the engine to get snagged on something.  

I didn't touch the "kill circuit" wiring.  The kill circuit wiring can be seen attached to the insulator on the upper screw of the points cover (the badly discolored white wire from the ignition switch is easily seen, the second black wire that goes to the mag not so easily).    

Let us know how you make out.  

PS - I think I might have used a 1/4" longer screw to mount the MegaFire unit and ground wire to the bottom points cover.  Others have mounted the unit inside the points cover after removing the points.  

 

Edited by PhanDad
Added PS

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rfsmith1952

I took a couple of continuity readings. It seems the plug wire IS grounded when the ignition switch is on. The measurement increases when the ignition key is on. When I measure continuity from the plug itself, with the wire removed, a correct reading of NO continuity between the plug terminal and the chassis. So I think we are dealing with a magneto issue, a wire short, or perhaps the old B&S bugaboo of magnetizing the flywheel. I think we are in for a motor pull. Since I've done it once, this time should be easier.

 

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rfsmith1952

Homelite T-12 is running again. Installed Briggs & Stratton 398811 ARMATURE MAGNETO IGNITION COIL. I reversed the magneto and put "Cylinder" side out. This evidently changes the polarity negating the need to re-polarize the flywheel. See https://youtu.be/Yx6AF8APVEQ for details. Also I added a kill wire to the spark plug terminal wire with a switch on the dash. Runs strong. I believe I am going to sell it. Has 48 inch deck, 42" snowplow, new (used) gas tank, new (used) front electric clutch pro, and a brand new battery. This is a working, hydro tractor. If you are interested please respond directly to my email rfsmith1952@comcast.net. For some reason I do not get notifications of any responses to my posts and I don't check the club site regularly. Tractor is located in Pottsville, Pennsylvania. 

Edited by rfsmith1952
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heron

If you need or want a Homelite T16 my dad has one in his garage. He is the original owner, never had any issues until the Briggs just gave out. Needs to be re-ringed etc... but tranny, electric deck lift and everything else worked great. First tractor I learned to cut grass with. It looks rough but if someone has the time and talent it could be beautiful again. He is located outside of Hartford, CT.  I'd rather see someone get it before it's too far gone and it gets hauled off. I'd take it but I'm in TN, already have a Sunstar, Deutz and Kubota that I have to keep up and a young family. No time for projects. 

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rfsmith1952

Forgot to mention: The actual cause of the lack of spark was the points plunger...no movement to open or close the points when rotating the flywheel. Also noticing a bit of backfiring upon shutdown. If I let it idle down a few seconds before killing it,  it does not backfire. Backfire is thru the carb not the exhaust.

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