BGB bearings

[deebig]

Could someone give me the generic bearing numbers for the input shaft needle bearing and the ball bearing so I can buy locally before I tear my BGB down.

[PhanDad]

Assuming your tractor has the newer BGB with 7/8" cross shaft:

Needle bearings are easy to source, they're BH-1412 by Timken, Torrington, Toyo, etc

I've never been able to locally source the ball bearings.  The problem being the 7/8" ID for the shaft.  The older bearings Simplicity installed were Fafnir 205K17.  The following bearing numbers have been reported in various posts as being equivalent:

IDC 6205-2RS-7/8 

BCA 205N14

RB Tech 6205-14

Note: Some of the above bearings may have seals that must be removed.

See this post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/48784-bgb-rebuild-parts/

 

PS - The ball bearing seal is also a special and I believe only available through Simplicity.

 

Edited February 25, 2019 by PhanDad
Added note about seals to be removed

[deebig]

11 hours ago, PhanDad said:

Assuming your tractor has the newer BGB with 7/8" cross shaft:

Needle bearings are easy to source, they're BH-1412 by Timken, Torrington, Toyo, etc

I've never been able to locally source the ball bearings.  The problem being the 7/8" ID for the shaft.  The older bearings Simplicity installed were Fafnir 205K17.  The following bearing numbers have been reported in various posts as being equivalent:

IDC 6205-2RS-7/8 

BCA 205N14

RB Tech 6205-14

Note: Some of the above bearings may have seals that must be removed.

See this post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/48784-bgb-rebuild-parts/

 

PS - The ball bearing seal is also a special and I believe only available through Simplicity.

 

Thank you! That is the info I was hoping to find.  A standard 6205 bearing has a 25mm bore, so a 7/8" bore is special bore .  I will measure the cross shaft tomorrow.....the build date was 1971.

[PhanDad]

3 hours ago, deebig said:

I will measure the cross shaft tomorrow.....the build date was 1971.

I think by '71 all the gear boxes were the "newer" style with 7/8" all around - input shaft and both ends of the cross shaft (there were different styles of cross shafts, but all were 7/8" in diameter).  

The earlier boxes are harder to measure when still in the tractor.  The easy place to take a measurement is the exposed left shaft.  Problem is, that end is 7/8" while the other end is smaller (3/4" I think) and is covered by the spacer.  The input shaft has the yoke on it, but can be measured.  If the input shaft is 3/4", then I believe the cross shaft is the double diameter one at the bearing/seal locations.  

Someone please correct me if I have this wrong.  

 

[Bill725]

The first tractor with the bigger BGB was the 3300 series.

[Bill725]

These are the P/Ns I used to rebuild my 725 BGB a while back which is the older/smaller BGB with 3/4" shafts.

154278 Oil Seal = National 450233

118011 Ball Bearing = NSK 6204

154279 Needle Bearing = Torrington BH-1412

118117 Oil Seal = ? (Do not have P/N)

154263 Oil Seal = CR 7443

154258 Needle Bearing = Torrington J-1210

 

[MrSteele]

I have a 65 apart right now.The cross shaft is the step down version, and I am having a new input shaft made, but I think it was a 3/4. It, the housing and a set of front axle spacers are supposed to be ready at the machine shop next week

[deebig]

It is the needle bearing on the input shaft that needs replacing. All the other bearings and seals are OK. I want to do a quick repair but don't want to split tractor if I can help it. Can the cross shaft be removed with BGB still in the frame?

Edited February 26, 2019 by deebig

[Bill725]

Understanding when Simplicity designed the first BGB tractor, the 700 Wonderboy, the first thing on the drawing board was the BGB. Everything else was designed around that. With that being said, if I were planning on keeping the tractor, understanding how much work is involved at getting to the BGB, I would invest the time and money to replace all the bearings and seals so you would not have to do it all over again soon.

[PhanDad]

While I'm sure the hole in the frame is large enough to pass the needle bearing and seal for the input shaft, I think you'd have to be a magician to successfully do it.  

Wrenching in the limited space would be difficult, getting the retaining ring on and off the cross shaft is hard with the box removed, and keeping stuff clean so that the seals aren't nicked would be next to impossible IMO. 

I wouldn't attempt it.   

And if the box is out, I'd at least change out all the seals.  

 

[deebig]

58 minutes ago, PhanDad said:

While I'm sure the hole in the frame is large enough to pass the needle bearing and seal for the input shaft, I think you'd have to be a magician to successfully do it.  

Wrenching in the limited space would be difficult, getting the retaining ring on and off the cross shaft is hard with the box removed, and keeping stuff clean so that the seals aren't nicked would be next to impossible IMO. 

I wouldn't attempt it.   

And if the box is out, I'd at least change out all the seals.  

 

Thanks, I'm pressed for time since I need to use the tractor right now.  I will wait until I have time to do a through rebuild,hopefully it will hold until then......thanks everyone.

[deebig]

Bit the bullet and repaired BGB, play was coming from worn input yoke,found one on ebay. Went ahead and replaced needle bearings and seals. The 7/8th bearings were fine so I did not replace even though I had new ones on hand....I believe in leaving well enough alone. Splitting tractor was surprisingly easy and I should have done it sooner! Thanks to all that replied.