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SmilinSam

Early Legacy worn driveshaft

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SmilinSam

Got 2 Legacys here, one I use and one for parts. Both are 1400+ hour machines and both suffer the same problem. Worn splined ends on the driveshafts from the engine to the splined shaft on the tranny pump.

The u joints dont seem to be the problem, its the splined end at the tranny shaft that is worn. You can rock the driveshaft end quite noticably on the tranny shaft. Pretty sure this is where the vibrations are coming from when the tractor is running.

I'm guessing that most owners are not aware of the zerk to be greased on the splined end of the driveshaft and it doesnt get greased.

Given that the driveshaft is no longer available, whats a person supposed to do to repair this?

Edited by SmilinSam
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GregB

Never seen the shaft, so the end of the shaft has a u joint then a female spline?  If you figure out the size and spline count maybe you can get a coupler or adapter from a power transmission kind or place.  Or a driveshaft house maybe.  Or wait for a used one to show up somewhere, E-bay, marketplace, or Craigslist.

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ShaunE
9 hours ago, SmilinSam said:

Given that the driveshaft is no longer available, whats a person supposed to do to repair this?

Rockford Driveshaft Service can make any driveshaft you want.  Might be pricey but an option.

Edited by ShaunE
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RAC

I'd bet with a little looking you can find the rear yoke and just change it out, after all, Simplicity didn't manufacture the u-joint yokes, they sourced them from somewhere else. The 15U pump on the 2600 transaxle isn't exactly unique to Simplicity so I'd wager it's available somewhere.

I was going to suggest you could cut a slot in it opposite the zerk and have it machined/tapped for a couple pinch bolts. But... thinking about mine, the shaft doesn't telescope and bolts solid to the flywheel so I'm thinking it needs to be able to slide a little on the splines. Weasler 06031-1 doesn't seem to cross out very easy though, good luck. 

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720nut

I use Advantage Driveline in Jackson Michigan for all my driveshafts and am sure they can handle one of these shafts.

Sam thanks for bringing this to my attention as I have early Legacy and would not have thought of checking it, will make it a priority to do so today

I use loader for a powered wheel barrel to bring in firewood every few days

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SmilinSam

Here is a picture of the critter, or one of the critters in question...These here are both from Liquid cooled Kawasaki powered tractors.

medium.DSCN2098.JPG.1749b0c1a0ef210bcbe0

 

medium.DSCN2097.JPG.105c23ac343783d9d40c

As you all can see the one half of the u joint is splined to fit onto the transmission input shaft. You can also see the zerk on it.  Right no you can grab the yoke half and wobble it all around on the splined shaft. I'm sure you are not supposed to be able to wobble it at all. The u-joint itself seems to be respectably tight.

If the wear is limited to the yoke thats one thing. If the shaft itself is worn, its for all intents junk......from a cost perspective anyhow.

To touch on some of the suggestions above, another used legacy driveshaft wouldnt be a viable choice unless one knows its from a low hour donor.  another high hour parts would likely have the same wear to it.

Some other possible alternative might be Deere 318/322/332, or Ariens or maybe some Cub Cadet versions. All had similar transmission drivelines. Dont know offhand if they were splined or not.

Been strongly thinking about keeping my eyes open for a  a nice low hour Legacy  and just moving all my options over to a new platform. Going to have to warm up before I tear into this any more. Just one of the maintinance item on my spring list.

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SmilinSam

Bought to two speed sunstar tranny from Stephen and am getting the driveshaft to compare to these to see if that can be used in some way..... so I guess I will start there first.

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ShaunE
11 hours ago, SmilinSam said:

If the shaft itself is worn, its for all intents junk......from a cost perspective anyhow.

Sam I have Zero experience with the original Legacy platform so excuse my ignorance.  Is that a Sundstrand unit that is driven off the driveshaft & is the Hydro splined shaft replacement a viable option to you if it was available?  From what I've heard from others, It's similar if not the same as the Sunstar?.?.

Hopefully your recent purchases will enlighten us all.

Edited by ShaunE
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720nut

Sam from your picture it looks like it's not on the shaft far enough and thus maybe causing the abnormal where. Just my $.02   I see that my shaft is not on far enough as I would like it either , we're at 1378 hours so things get worn. My concern is the yoke wearing or the shaft ? can't tell from just looking so one of these days I'll remove it and see.

I got tied up on another project yesterday and forgot to look at mine, I'll take a photo of mine to compare. I just looked at mine I have a little play so I'll throw some grease at it and see what happens, needs good bath under there, seeing I have other issues going on but will wait for a warmer day. 

Thanks Sam for bringing this to my attention,  that's why I love this site.

DSCN2920.JPG

DSCN2921.JPG

Edited by 720nut
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SmilinSam

Talked to Stephen yesterday, and he says the Sunstar is the same setup for the driveshaft. Bad thing is, is that it has the same sort of wear to it. Tells me that used parts are not going to be a viable alternative.

Will be take these apart as it gets warmer out and see what turns up.

Like 720nut,  I'm concerned about wear to the hardened input shaft on the transmission.

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wwbragg

The input shaft is hardened steel so I doubt if it is worn too much.  The yoke is softer material so I'm putting my money on the worn out yoke which is still available.  

All things are possible to him that believeth- - -

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+repair+a+splined+shaft&docid=608035834394905378&mid=BA53425369BFBC8B27E3BA53425369BFBC8B27E3&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT

and 

https://www.bing.com/videos/search?q=how+to+repair+a+splined+shaft&docid=608035834394905378&mid=BA53425369BFBC8B27E3BA53425369BFBC8B27E3&view=detail&FORM=VIREHT

Edited by wwbragg
add links

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SmilinSam

 

Didnt know the parts were available...

Just priced 2 u-joints  @ $38.50 and the yoke end  @ $80.50  plus $29 shipping from SLE equipment .

When it gets warmer later this week I'll get mine off and look it over good before ordering

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PhanDad

@SmilinSam

Still finding SLE Equipment cheapest on web even with somewhat high shipping cost?

I've found them mixed lately.  On high $$$ items they're still best, on lower and mid priced items, not so much.  

 

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SmilinSam
3 hours ago, PhanDad said:

@SmilinSam

Still finding SLE Equipment cheapest on web even with somewhat high shipping cost?

I've found them mixed lately.  On high $$$ items they're still best, on lower and mid priced items, not so much.  

 

@PhanDad

I'm  harboring about the same opinion as you Bill.

When I shop for parts I usually checkparts tree, Ebay, SLE and Jacks

The yoke is about $20 cheaper than elswhere, while the u-joints are about the same as a seller on Ebay .....this all said and done with the shipping added in.

The other bonus I like about them is I can use PayPal as a payment option.

Edited by SmilinSam
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kwt
On 3/1/2019 at 7:38 AM, SmilinSam said:

I'm guessing that most owners are not aware of the zerk to be greased on the splined end of the driveshaft and it doesnt get greased.

One more reason to read the owners manual for any piece of equipment you own. Especially the routine maintenance part.

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kwt

I would honestly be tempted to JB weld the bugger if I thought I could get it centered well enough. If it's mostly side spline wear, I imagine it wouldn't be a problem. I've never done it to a sliding shaft, but I was successful saving a steering box and pitman arm on a 1 ton Dodge, and the augur on one of my snow thrower heads.

I would be a little concerned that I wouldn't have enough clearance for the grease after finishing, but could probably use something to relieve the yoke when cured. The important thing to do on moving or removable parts is to use a release agent. Using the strongest available is likely important too. I've had good luck with painting the part that I don't want to stick  with old school shoe polish and a Q-tip. In this case, the shaft. Obviously you would want to have the JB on the slack side of the part so that you would still have steel to steel contact under load. Since successfully using JB bedding rifles, I've thought about using it lots of places. It's great @ taking up space and reducing tolerance.

 

Of course if I could get a new part for $110, maybe not.

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SmilinSam

I've used JB on static keyway repairs to some success, but I dont think I'd trust  it to work on a moving and vibrating part.

Besides, the cost of the parts is worth the fix on a tractor that doesnt use oil, works in every other respect, AND has a hard to get actual 540 pto on it. I use it mainly to mow a few times each year with a 4' bush hog mower. That and fill in with the 54" deck when needed.

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wwbragg
5 hours ago, kwt said:

JB weld the bugger

 

4 hours ago, tadams said:

better luck with PC7

This is basically the approach used in the videos I cited above.  If it can work in something as big as shown there, it can certainly work in a garden tractor drive shaft yoke.

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720nut

Ok , stupid when it comes to looking for parts . Went to SLE site and couldn't get any parts to come up.

Ya'll got any #'s for yoke and u-joint , or at least let me in on the secret of finding parts 

Thanks in advance

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SmilinSam
52 minutes ago, 720nut said:

Ok , stupid when it comes to looking for parts . Went to SLE site and couldn't get any parts to come up.

Ya'll got any #'s for yoke and u-joint , or at least let me in on the secret of finding parts 

Thanks in advance

Yoke # 1709049sm

u-joint (not what briggs calls it) #1679003sm

I usually have to look up the tractor model number for a parts manual to get the parts number. Either that or take the tractor number to parts tree or Jacks which both have parts pages and parts numbers come up by tractor model number.  SLE doesnt have that convenience I dont think..

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wwbragg
1 hour ago, SmilinSam said:

partstree or Jacks

I think the partstree pages are easier to use but that is just me.  I have also found the Simplicity Tractors CD helpful.  My shop is quite a ways from the house and there is no wi-fi so it has come in handy. It contains user manuals and parts manuals for almost every model.  The first pic is from the ebay ad.  The second pic is the actual CD.

simtrac cd1.jpg

simtrac cd2.jpg

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PhanDad

Go old school.

Print out the parts manual for everything you own.  Put them in 3 ring notebooks.

Then you can make notes about the parts, equivalent part numbers, where you might have to a spare, etc.  

And you have the IPL to reference  at the work site.  

Now if your eyesight is good, you don't need any of this.  Go the millennial way- it's all available on your smart phone.  

 

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