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shaggyhill

Road For B-10 Part II

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shaggyhill
Interesting thing -- when my origional post was on the first page my question got 17 responses, when it went to the second page a question I put into response 18 got zero answers...so I want to bump this up and get some thoughts on a question before I go ahead and do this road. Here was my question: (and thanks again to all the other advice) One more question about what MPH referred to -- I am just picturing myself going up this hill with my tires spinning in the gravel. At this point I'm thinking that if I just added gravel directly to the dirt and kept adding it as needed this would at least "hold" the gravel somewhat in place. The purpose for the improved road is because of the incline -- it is steep. I am seeing myself on the steepest sections sitting on three inches of rock spinning my tires. Would the size of the stone make any difference? Also my greatest problem is not going up, but going down. In February I set the record with forty foot skid marks. Right now when I hit a rock I just slid over it or spin the tire until it kicks out--they are bigger rocks not small ones the size of "road" gravel. Thanks again, Paul

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Guest
Shaggy, I didn't see the original note but it sounds like you need to get some smaller rocks on top of your base. The key to keeping rock from rolling off of hills is to fill the space between the rocks themselves. Some refer to this as "choke". The choke rock will work its way down between the larger rock and keep it from rolling under your tires. Without the choke, the larger rocks tend to "pump" out from under your tires. Its hard to think of rocks as being fluid but they will "flow" if put down in to thick of a layer on hills. Limestone called "crusher Run" usually works well in this type of case as it is made up of smaller rocks and fines that will work down into the larger rock. ClydeM

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MPH
When I was a kid dad bought a 52 GMC dump truck during a drought to keep some income coming in so he could keep farming. After a couple years of 'gone on road jobs' it started rainning so dad stayed home,, kept the truck, and part time hauled gravel to area farmers driveways. The pit he got the gravel from on the Plate River had an area of 'poor gravel' because it had clay in it. Found this to be great for drives as once it dried and packed in place it was like concrete, year around. They refered to it as 'mud rock'. think thats what you need. If you have sticky clay under your top soil you might be able to create the same. Loose clean gravel on a steep slope is a waste..MPH Oh, hope you don't feel put out by lack of replys on page 2, most posts seem to fade away before they hit the bottom of page one, thoughts all shared I guess. This is the only tractor site I check in on where there are a dozen questions asked and mostly answered several times the same day..

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Deazman
I have a very steep incline to my wood lot, and I use tire chains, they allow me to climb the grade, skid tree length logs, and mow the side hill with virtually no slipage. The chains also help with braking on the down grade, and they seem to do very little damage to the lawn, as compared to the tires spinning and ripping up the sod.

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Woodydel
Paul, Just want to remind you about the crushed recycled concrete as an excellent road base. It will compact and never let you down. It is used by the big road builders all the time if they can get it. It's not just chunks of concrete but the fine dust produced by the crushing machines that makes it perfect and cheap for a road no matter how narrow it is...Woody

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