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64simplelandlord

1964 SIMPLICITY LANDLORD REBUILD

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64simplelandlord

HELLO, FIRST TIME POSTING HERE. I AM STARTING TO DO SOME WORK ON MY TRACTOR AND THOUGHT I WOULD ASK A FEW QUESTONS FIRST. BEFORE I GET TO THE QUESTIONS I WILL TELL YOU WHAT I'M DOING. FIRST OFF ITS A '64 LANDLORD WITH THE ORIGINAL 9HP 23D BRIGGS. THE ENGINE IS VERY TIRED AND I STARTED REMOVING IT LAST EVENING. I ALSO NEED TO FIX SOME LOOSE STEERING COMPONENTS AND REAR AXLE SEALS LEAK A BIT. I'VE HAD THE TRACTOR TWELVE YEARS OR SO, ITS BEEN A GOOD TILLING TRACTOR. FIRST QUESTION: WHAT DO I NEED TO DO SLOW DOWN THE DRIVE SPEED FOR TILLING?I HAVE HEARD SOME GUYS TALK ABOUT DIFFERENT DRIVE PULLEYS FOR TILLING? SIZES AND WHICH PULLEYS WOULD HELP. SECOND QUESTION IS FINDING PARTS LIKE PISTON, VALVES AND REBUILD KIT? HARD TO FIND OR EXPENSIVE? ANY OTHER TIPS FOR REBUILDING THESE ENGINES I MIGHT WANT TO KNOW? I ASSUME THE REAR AXLE SEALS I CAN FIND AT A DEALER? THEN FOR THE TILLER, SHOULD A GUY CHANGE THE GREASE? LEAVE IT ALONE? MY 10 YEAR OLD SON WHO IS HELPING WITH THE PROJECT HAS A COULPE OF GARDENS TO TILL THIS SPRING AND WANT EVERYTHING TO BE GOOD TO GO. THANKS IN ADVANCE!!! I REALLY ENJOY THIS SITE, JUST LEARNING HOW TO NAVIGATE. ALL QUESTIONS AND COMMENTS APRECIATED

 

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Bill725

1) The low speed kit for my 725, Mfg No. 990238, included a 10" transmission pulley, P/N 154418 and belt, P/N 155004 or Gates 6949, Dayco L549.

2) The original Landlord 9 transaxle has axle tube bushings in the housing rather than needle bearings which were first used in 1969 in models 2210/3112. The bushing are know to wear causing the seals to leak. If you see movement between the axle tube and the housing when you jack it up, the bushing are worn. To replace them, you nee to split the housing.

3) You really can not change the grease on the tiller unless you split the case. If the chain drive is tight, I suggest to continue greasing it. I also use grease with moly.

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Bill725

4) Steering play between the LH spindle and steering link arm can be greatly improved by upgrading the newer Sovereign style which uses 2 straight keys instead of 1. Also look at rebuilding the steering gear with new needle bearings and a bronze bushing for the eccentric bolt. You can also drill and tap NPT between the needle bearings and run a grease gun hose up toward the engine with a grease zerk on the end in order to grease it.

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64simplelandlord

Thanks for the response guys! I got the top piece of tunnel off last night, ready to take engine out soon. I found out Mickey and Minnie had a pretty nice nest in there. I really wasn't planning on painting the tractor because its in pretty nice original condition, but the more I take apart... and now finding out I have to split rear case to replace bushings, I'm not sure what to do? Do I leave it in its work clothes or paint it???

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fishnwiz

Rattle cans produce pretty darn nice paint jobs these days as long as you do the proper prep work....that being said,  I like stock when possible.  The choice is personal and a tough one to say the least.

Good luck. 

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St. Croix Simplicity

I also have a 66 Simplicity landlord and I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine. Not sure if the piston needs replacing or not, I've been finding they are rediculously expensive for new piston and rings. It is the Briggs 243431.

 

thank you 

 

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fishnwiz
3 hours ago, St. Croix Simplicity said:

I also have a 66 Simplicity landlord and I'm in the process of rebuilding the engine. Not sure if the piston needs replacing or not, I've been finding they are rediculously expensive for new piston and rings. It is the Briggs 243431.

 

thank you 

 

Sometimes you can get away with just replacement rings if your pistons are not scored.  The older these engines get the more replacement parts are harder to come by and than the price goes up.

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D600

If you have a hard time finding an original 10" pulley you can always get a pulley and weld-in hub from somewhere like Tractor Supply or Orscheln. I did that to mine to gear it down, I haven't used the tiller yet but I've been able to pull cars with it.

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MrSteele

I am working in a rebuild of a 65 Landlord, thought I would paint it piece by piece, since I had it apart. I painted the transmission a few years ago during a rebuild. I usually only paint what needs it the worst, or do not paint at all. My Landlord is a work in progress. When it is all assembled, this time, it will have new paint from the BGB forward. The decals are a bit pricey for now, so will have to be decided upon later. I masked the dash this time....Given the choice, if a paint job is decent, I would not touch it with new paint

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64simplelandlord

Thanks for the feedback! I think my mind is made up to leave the paint the way it is. I pressure washed the tractor with the engine removed and it will be just fine with original paint, they are only original once and plus nothing else I have has new paint, why start now:). I disassembled the engine down to bare block and found piston and cylinder are worn pretty bad. I was down on compression big time when I finally parked it. I dropped it off at machine shop last week and have not heard back yet on prices and if they can find oversized pistons. I was amazed how nice and clean the engine was with minimal wear on all the other internal parts, I have never taken one of these apart before and impressed with the condition given its a 'splash oiler'. The cooling fins on block were plugged solid with mouse nest, couldn't really see with all the covers on engine but I assume it was getting pretty hot. I will update when I hear from machine shop.

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lugnard

My wards squire 9 that had the original engine was rebuilt I believe  2 maybe 3 times but really never lasted. Not so much on the compression but the crankshaft.  I'm pretty sure it just had a sleeve type bearing. Some one feel free to correct me on this but I ended up getting a new replacement from big A back when they were actually in business. The new, and I think now a 12 horse had ball bearings on the crank. Big improvement. Might look into a replacement engine that has a few updates......course what you get now may not actually be an update from the original.

Harry

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64simplelandlord

Well, I heard from the machine shop and valves and seats were good so they put a fresh grind on them. They recommended going at least .010 over on bore, with .020 over being a better option. I found a genuine Briggs piston .020 over on the ebay for $62.50 with free shipping. Just ordered it. The guy has 3 more available. I thought that was a pretty reasonable price.

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bnolte

Good deal on the replacement piston. In my case the piston looked decent and the bore was about .007 over. I decided just to go with new rings, the main issue with the engine was the intake valve had no clearance, and was leaking badly. Engine has been test run, but I don't intend to heavily use it, perhaps till  with it and take it to tractor shows to show off and run around on. 

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