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Belt engagement yoke for a 36"-48" FDT tiller?


macallis180

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Bought a tiller from a member, but it was on a RBT he said, and does not have the U shaped yoke/lever/spring over top the transmission that engages belt to start and stop tiller.  Put an advert on today looking for this.

Has anyone hand made one of these if your tiller didn't have it?

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There was a drive clutch kit for this purpose:

image.thumb.png.74c42a9a8ffb3ecf97168cebaaa5b414.png

Might find one on an old dealers shelf somewhere. 

From "Parts Manual Model 7000 Attachements & Accessories":

image.thumb.png.562af7885c853c114e313bc30b6d6520.png

image.thumb.png.342271ae1390d9387fb80a0d27cf163e.png

 

Edited by PhanDad
Added parts IPL info
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1 hour ago, ShaunE said:

Can't you use the old style FDT clutch/idler pulley assembly with the clutch-less tiller on a FDT? 

That might be easier to find.

I think your talking about one of these:

Kirk2_0007.jpg.c80869d784b2ec08e9a19755e3202f6d.jpg

It's my understanding that setup was used for the single reduction FDT tiller. 

If you use it on the newer double reduction tillers, I'm thinking the tiller would turn too slowly.  Maybe it would be OK at full throttle since, IMO, full throttle is usually too fast with the normal double reduction tiller setup.  

 

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1 hour ago, PhanDad said:

It's my understanding that setup was used for the single reduction FDT tiller

I believe you are correct & I remember your original post describing the clutched vs un-clutched tillers with all those pictures which is why I brought it up.

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18 hours ago, the summoner666 said:

I have one of those kits, but is missing the spring.

image.png.ae579c05d5fc7e3a0cc023a6fa2c43a5.png

 

Merle you just need Part 12, 13, 14, 15, 17 and 18 pictured. Ray Stoddard used to make them. Otherwise just hook your tiller up and use that spring to pull up the pulley and maintain tension on the belt. I'll be mailing the pulley, belt stops and key tomorrow for you.

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18 hours ago, the summoner666 said:

I have one of those kits, but is missing the spring.

Summoner666 if you have the kit and would sell to Macallis180 shoot him a PM. 

Thanks-Chris

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I may be wrong, but the double reduction tiller came out in about 1971 or so.  Maybe even a year or so earlier. I am pretty sure there were yellow Allis double reduction tillers.  A 3300 series tractor still used the old style PTO on the tractor, so the tiller needed to have a clutch on the drive to engage and disengage it.  A double reduction tiller without a clutch came around when the RBT's started coming with a cone clutch on the PTO to engage/disengage the implement.

A clutch type tiller can obviously be used on a tractor with a cone style PTO - just leave the tiller clutch engaged.

A non-clutch type tiller can't/shouldn't be used on a tractor with the old style PTO that does not have a cone clutch - you wouldn't be able to shut the implement off - it would turn any time the BGB is turning.

I agree with the above statement that using the single reduction tiller drive with a double reduction tiller would probably result in a tiller with a very slow and useless tine shaft speed.

A single reduction tiller used on a later tractor without the jackshaft to reduce tiller input speed results in a tiller that is overdriven and spins the tine shaft way too fast.  I know people run this set up and just use the tractor at lower throttle settings, but it isn't right.

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On 5/1/2019 at 3:24 PM, bowhunt4life said:

Summoner666 if you have the kit and would sell to Macallis180 shoot him a PM. 

Thanks-Chris

Hopefully he will let me know what he needs as there seems to be more than one set of parts to mount it.

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16 hours ago, the summoner666 said:

Hopefully he will let me know what he needs as there seems to be more than one set of parts to mount it.

he needs 12,13,14,15, 17 & 18

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Let me know if you wish to sell, as well as the price for the kit.  Will help me decide if I want to try to make one or not.

Edited by macallis180
added info
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