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New Project / First Tractor! Simplicity 7117 Hydrostatic


kypatchwork

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Hello from KY, folks! I just picked up my first ever tractor, a Simplicity 7117. It came with a tiller, push blade, and mower deck. I purchased it from a gentleman who actually worked in the A.C. factory years ago. As I understood, he purchased the tractor and attachments new and used them up until the past 2-3 years. 

The story, according to him, is that a couple years back the engine started to burp oil through the carb. He took it to a local repair shop who told him it was "worn out" and that he needed a new engine. So he parked it, and it's been sitting since. It is caked with an impressive amount of oil, dirt, and grease but the tractor seems straight. He said that he had a new clutch installed shortly before the engine died, and that the gearbox on the tiller had also been rebuilt in recent years. The only missing component I've noticed so far is the air filter/breather, and the seat needs to be replaced. Unfortunately the mower deck is also severely rusted and I'm afraid it's beyond repair.

I haven't had much time to work on it but the first thing I did when I got it home was to check the oil. Practically no oil showing on the dipstick, but the crankcase was full of gas. Drained the crankcase and what old fuel was in the tank. Refilled with oil and attempted to turn the front (pto?) shaft. Not stuck, and no grinding or odd noises. So far, so good. I then added fresh pure gas with a splash down into the carb. Hooked up the jumper box and gave the key a turn. The starter is engaging. The carb is sucking air. But it didn't turn over. As I was checking for spark the rain set in for the day so I had to call it. But I'm optimistic that it may not take too much to get this old gal back in fighting shape.  I'll try to add info / questions to this thread as I have time to dig in. Please excuse my ignorance and I've never owned a tractor and have limited mechanical experience. I look forward to engaging here on the forum and thanks in advance!

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Nice haul, Patrick.  Someone in the club had a discussion about a month or so ago about that gas in the crankcase.  If it were an air cooled VW I'd tell you it was a faulty fuel pump diaphragm.  If I recall, that was also one of the explanations here but don't let it go unattended.

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Thanks! Most of what I've read indicates this may a symptom of a faulty fuel system component.

I've already started to remove the carb. A good carb cleaning doesn't really cost anything and maybe it's as simple as a stuck float? Just want to eliminate the easy causes before spending unnecessary money. Next will be a carb repair kit, and maybe a fuel pump if I can't get it resolved. 

If anyone in the KY / TN / IN areas know of a solid 7100 series mowing deck for sale, please let me know :)

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Hello and welcome,  I'm working on the same model now.  It's completely apart and strewn across my garage.  I finished my deck a few weeks ago.  There was a guy in Greensburg IN on CL.  He had 48" decks, but I don't see any currently listed. 

I live in Southern Indiana.  Feel free to reach out.

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When reassembling the carb, I would add an inline fuel shutoff and use it religiously. Decks are quite common for that model. Its what we call here a "large frame" tractor and any large frame deck will hook right up. Welcome & good luck, Dave

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Thanks so much for the comments, guys! @jsciutto I've seen those listings come and go on Craigslist from Greensburg IN so I'm definitely keeping an eye out. As I tear into the fuel system this week I may very well send you a message if there's anything that becomes unclear.

 

@dhoadley Yes, I'm definitely going to add an in-line shutoff. After going through all the trouble I'd rather not have to repeat the process for a good long while.

 

Update- Yesterday I was able to get the tractor to run. All it took was some a jump start form a freshly charged jumper box. After the old oil/crud burned off the exterior of the muffler, there was no smoke or "spit" in the exhaust. Maybe a bit of chatter from the valves but it was hard to tell since the air cleaner/cover hasn't yet arrived. The gearbox seems to work fine as the hydro control works. And the PTO/Tiller also seems to function as it should. All good news! The charging system appeared to be operative as the ammeter was showing nearly 10 amps at full throttle. Unfortunately what little time I had the tractor running was enough for gas to again find its way into the crankcase. I checked the oil again and it smelled of fuel and had definitely thinned. I'll get to work on the fuel system this week and see if I can make any progress. Here's another photo after a little elbow grease went into cleaning it up. Thanks again, folks!

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Gas in crankcase in KT twin can be carb needle and seat as it has elevated gas tank and needle maybe not closing at all while running. Shut off valve good, but still could be stuck/submerged float.

#2 fuel pump diaphram might be bad or pump case vibrated loose.

Spitting popping back up carb is intake valve crud on rim or stem, burned, or adjustment. Rather easy on a single cylinder but more work with the twin. I have found a throttle butterfly plate screw under an intake valve and the wedge type valve keeper stuck under another. Nice looking 7100. I have the similar Allis 919 and they are well worth keeping going.

When main issues solved check into which series engine is. Series II started at engine spec no. 24300 in 17's & no. 49200 in 19 hp engines. If series II; it is pressure lubricated even without a filter or filter adapter mounting provisions in engine casting. It will have a very small pipe thread plug front right side of engine in an oil  galley ( for the oil sentry engine shut off switch that I doubt was ever provided -that a gauge can go in, with correct copper tubing fitting) Those engines can last a lifetime with thoughtfull care. Series I, not so much ... (AND don't ever need to change the starter).

Edited by Rfp55
Changed spec number to 24300
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Looks like I may be out of luck on the updated spec'd engine. This one is spec # 24343. I've already bought a replacement fuel pump, carb kit, and lines/filter/shutoff valve. Hopefully it isn't a waste but I have to try.

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Edited by kypatchwork
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I found the Spec no. info. All engines with Spec No. of 24300 or higher are series 2 engines. It's in the Kohler KT service manual near the front.

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19 hours ago, maxwood said:

I found the Spec no. info. All engines with Spec No. of 24300 or higher are series 2 engines. It's in the Kohler KT service manual near the front.

That helps shed light on things for me.

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Not a Kohler, but a similar problem on an early Briggs 2 cylinder. The owner is my cousing, and I do most of his mortar mixers, 2 cycle saws, lawnmowers..anything with a small engine, work. His engine was "making oil" in his words. An inline fuel shutoff solved that, But, the next problem was gas running out around the air cleaner. He tried a needle, but that did not stop it, so he called me. I told him to get a float. After some amount of argument, he agreed, I ordered one. His engine was made before the improved carburetor, so no floats on the shelf. New float, no gas running out of carb. The old float was original, not sure exactly what the problem is/was, but the float was not waterlogged, had no signs of leakage, even felt as light (or heavy) as the new one

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Ok folks, been working replacing the  fuel pump, lines, filter, and added a shutoff valve this morning. But I've noticed that there is significant seepage from the side 1 (I think) valve cover. I took it off and the reed valve looks ok, but unfortunately part of the gasket is gone (easy enough to fix). Obviously something is allowing a significant amount of oil into the valve cover and I'm curious as to what your thoughts might be? 

 

Kohler manual says the repair for leaky valves is to "recondition valves and seats". Has anyone done this? I'm a total novice, is it possible for me to complete on my own with basic tools? I appreciate any info you may have. 

 

 

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Couldn't help but to try out the tiller on my garden plot (which I'm way behind on). Made 2 passes and the tractor sputtered, lost rpm, and then shut down with a backfire. This was after it ran 10-15 minutes at idle and high rpm without any issues. Noticed some smoke coming from side 1 from what appeared like the exhaust area. No obvious puddling of oil anywhere that I could see. Thoughts? Thanks in advance. 

 

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