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Engine Running Hot - Root Cause Found - Now Fixing


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Thanks Dutch, MPH and BradT for your replies, All good points brought up! It did not cross my mind that the flywheel might have "advanced" a bit by partially shearing the key. To answer your questions: - The manual states "Craftsman 4 cycle engine", but I wonder whether they make these themselves. Is there a location on the engine where the "real" manufacturers name or code may be found? - Coolng fins are clean (it is a new head!) - Yes, I have hit quite a few large rocks, even to the extend that the machine "jumped up", so some damage could indeed have been done. I will indeed do all the things proposed and will let you know what I found. Thanks, VincentD Ok, Dutch, MPH and BradT you were all correct! I took the parts mounted above the flywheel off and below the bolt tightening the flyweel the key was still partly there, but for about 3/4 sheared away. The timing is now about 20 degrees off with respect to the original flyweel setting. The question now is how to get the flywheel off, without breaking it. I would normally use a flywheel pulley, but there is not much to hold on to (aluminum flyweel is wide and fairly thin). There are three holes, located at each 60 degree angles around the center of the flywheel. They have no thread tapped into them, but that could be done of course. Are these there to attach a part to allow the use of a pulley? Thanks for your advise, VincentD
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I've had excellent luck with using a large lead/brass/plastic face hammer and a big screwdriver. Use the screwdriver to wedge the flywheel forward (pry the flywheel away from the crankshaft) and then hit the end of the exposed crank with the hammer. The flywheel will pop right off...very easy. You can also use a large puller (3 jaw), put some tension on it being careful with the aluminum flywheel, and whack the shaft on the puller with a soft face hammer. Just be sure **NOT** to use a regular metal hammer or you'll ruin the end of the crank.[A href='http://www.wheatfarm.com']http://www.wheatfarm.com[/a]
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Those three holes in the flywheel are for a puler for that engine make it is either a Briggs or a Techumch. The bolts are on the puller and are a self tapping bolt Ron
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The type puller you need is called a steering wheel puller in auto stores. If you chose to use the hammer method as well decibed in reply above, done it many times also, I always leave the nut on the flywheel about half a tread from the end..MPH
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Vincent: I've done the screw driver thing once, but that freaked me out, although my buddy does it all the time, no problems. I use the less-recommended, large, two jaw puller, a Craftsman piece, about 8" high, about $30.00. Do the nut thing, like MPH said, and I beat right on the puller bolt, w/ a hammer, using a piece of hardwood in between. Some day I'll get one of those new-fangled plastic, weighted hammers. Now the experts my cringe at this next, but if it still won't come, you can CAREFULLY heat the area closest to the crankshaft, BRIEFLY, with a PROPANE torch, not oxy-acetylene. Do it evenly, all the way around, and for no more than a minute or two. I think they're only 800 degrees (not sure) which has been enough to make the difference, several times, as everything expands with heat. Leave the puller in place, to help the crank shed any heat it gets, and try whacking on the puller bolt again. The flywheel should jump right up and scare you! Of course, you would have already removed the GAS TANK from the vicinity. Or, be safe, and listen to the experts.
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Thank you, Arnold! Now I know what to call where I get all of my mowers, and hopefully, some tractors--the Curb Depot! I gets my clothes at Sal's Boutique (the Salvation Army). I find things advertised for sale in "The White Trash Gazette," (the NJ Want Ad Press). I get nice things for free when I visit Cape Cod, at the Eastham Town Dump, in the free "Swap Shop." It's like a permenant garage sale where you never have to pay. Last time I was there, there were four (allegedly working) microwave ovens on the floor, for example. Can anybody add to these "Bastions of Bargain Hunters?" Peter
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My 2 cents, For vertical crank engines I fit 2 lengths of angle iron under the flywheel on opposite sides and suspend the mower between 2 logs. I'll do the propane torch job around the center for a minute and then one light wack will usually do the trick. If not, Heat-Beat, Heat-Beat. Yes, I should buy a puller !! but I'm usually doing this to machines aquired from the Curb Depot.
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Don't get cought at midnight auto sales useing their five finger discount or you will be staying at the county boarding house LOL This & $1.00 might get you a small coffee Maynard aka/UCD
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If using methods other than a puller bolted into the 3 holes designed for that pupose be careful not to warp the flywheel. Had a Tecumseh once with a warped flywheel and no spark. Not until I viewed the flywheel horizontally while rotating it did I find the problem. Roy
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