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what year were the 3310's made?

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thedaddycat
The 3310(at least my 3310 V, Mfg. No. 990653, Ser. 001249) was made in 1971. As far as I know, there was the 3310 Landlord(10 HP), and the 3314 Soverign(14 HP). About the only difference between them is the HP of the engine and a few parts that bolt the drive shaft to the engine. I checked part numbers in the parts manual and they mostly match part for part. The repair manual covers large frame tractors including Baron, Landlord, Soverign, 7000 and 7100 series tractors, but I don't have a parts manual for the other tractors to check part numbers against. My parts manual just covers the four 3300 series tractors, variable and hydro drives in 10 and 14 HP.

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SmilinSam
OK guys, The 3300 series was a 1971 machine, and only made for a year or a few months more. The lift shaft and PTO are entirely different from the 3400 series and newer and do not interchange. The 3300 series used a solid lift rod from the lift shaft to the rear lift. These were the last tractors where you pushed the lever forward to raise the the deck and lift a tiller. They were also the last series that a front or rear counterweight would be useful on. After that they went to a cable type rear lift and you pulled the lever back to raise all attachments. The PTO on the 3300 series was not the cone clutch introduced on the 3400 series. It was still the hang underneath the center of the tractor type where you put a half twist in the belt to the deck. It was however engaged by the same sort of lever that is on the 3400 series and newer with the spring loaded rod and pulleys hidden under the frame. I found all this out recently after buying a 3314 Soveriegn.The only thing I'm not clear on is what the engagement for the snowblowers was like. this one has the dual synchro balancers therefore you could not have put a front PTO clutch on it. I'd sure like to see a blower for one of these mounted up. SmilinSam

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MikeES
Sam, I have a 3314V that I turned into a pulling tractor. Everything you said is correct, and I have had the same curiosity (how did the snowblower connect). The 14hp is a 32c.i. engine, external gears. The parts microfisch shows the hitch the same as the 3400, along with the front clutch, but we know that would not work. Has anyone seen a snowblower on a 3300 tractor? Mike S.

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thedaddycat
My tractor has the friction cone clutch on the front PTO, where the outer half carries the belt and the inner half is keyed to the crankshaft. To disengage the front PTO, the outer half is moved away from the inner half against a spring. All I have is the pulley mounted to the engine with the spring and sleeve. I imagine the mechanism must be similar to the variable drive setup as there are three holes on the inner half of the pulley through which to push the outer half away from the inner half. If anyone has a picture of one of these front PTOs, I'd love to see it. The engagement lever for the front PTO is on the right side of the tractor, opposite the center PTO engagement lever on the left. The rear lift rod is not really "solid", it has interlocked loops between the front and rear parts of the rod. These let the rear lift move upward freely. I have thought about making a truly solid lift rod so I could get downpressure at the rear lift. I'm still thinking that one over.... anyone have comment on wether it's worth the effort or serves any useful purpose. I've alerady sent Dutch my idea to get downpressure on the grader blade with this tractor, which has the electric lift kit, not hydraulics. I know this tractor had a snowblower with it long ago, I'll have to talk to the previous owner to see if he can shed any more light on the issue.

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MikeES
My 1970 HB212 and a 3212H that I know of both have the interlocking loops for the rear hitch. My 3314 did not have a rear hitch. But it has the notches in the lift quandant (which means the lift lever did not "float"). So I assumed it used a cable for the rear hitch and the spring rod for front attachments, It does use a chain for lifting the mower deck. It has the double V drive belt for the mower deck the same as my HB212. The 1971 3314V was the last year for the Vari-drive, and I believe the only one with a Vari-drive in the newer chassis. Another note is that there is not an AC equivalent, as AC was making the 300/400 series from 1971 to 1973. Mike S.

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MPH
I'll try to get some pics of the front clutch on my 3314 as it looked complete. I believe the reason for the 'chain' link in the rear lift linkage is to prevent burning out the lift unit with continued down pressure loading. That just my 1+1=2 logic...MPH

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MPH
Hey Sam, you want to sell the Vickers outta that 3314? mine missing off the transaxle..Is that the orginal engine in it? Haven't looked mine over very close because of the missing hydro its on the end of to deal with list..MPH

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SmilinSam
MArty, I'm not ready to piece this one out yet. I need to use it for a few things around here. I have a vickers assembly in an old Homelite but have not had it running to see if it works or not. I tryied to e-mail you back but it came back undeliverable for some reason. I already shipped my front counter out to the buyer so I can't get the measurement. I could probably make that part for you if I ever get time. I'm at least two weeks behind on everything at the moment. I've been promising Les Krieffels something for a month now and need to get on that soon. I'll be interested in your pictures too. Sam

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thedaddycat
MPH, there is no way to get rear downpressure with the loops in the rear linkage, only positive upwards lift once the links draw tight to eachother. That's why I was thinking about making a truly solid rear lift rod, to have real downpressure. Any rear attachment will float once it's resting on the ground. If I hold the switch after the lift hits max. travel in either direction it just "clicks". I assume there is some sort of slip clutch in the lift assembly to prevent damage to the lift motor. Either that or I'm stripping the gears each time I hit the stops. BTW, I can get the front end off the ground with the front plow fully lowered, due to the solid lift arm. That's a sure sign of positive downpressure... Here's another one for you, I'm thinking about putting the manual lift lever on the left end of the lift shaft(where it would normally be) without the keys installed. That way I can have independant control of front and back attachments, as long as I attach the front implement directly to the manual lift arm instead of the lift arm on the right end of the lift shaft. This would also require modifying the front implement to take a lift arm on the left side instead of/in addition to one on the right side. The application I'm thinking of is to loosen the ground with the mouldboard plow, then push it into place with the dozer blade(or Johnny bucket, if I ever get one) without having to detach either one. What's your opinion of this? All comments are welcome....

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MikeES
Kirk, I looked at your picture in the gallery. What Marty and I were talking about is the 12hp and 14hp engines have the counter rotating gears mounted on the front (PTO) side of the engine. Your 10 hp did not have those gears so the front clutch works. So the mistery continues. But this clutch looks much simpler than the front cone clutch that I am used to. It doesn't look like it attaches to the engine face. Mike S.

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thedaddycat
I posted a pic of the front PTO pulley in the new clubhouse in my member section. Sorry, but I'm not that great with computers and couildn't figure out how to get it here.....

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thedaddycat
OK, I was wondering about that counter rotating gear thing... I believe the mechanism does attach to the engine block, since the outer half moves away from the engine and the three holes are on the inner half. You can see the two upper holes that I think the mechanism mounts to above the bolt heads by about 2". There are two more below the crankshaft, one of which can be seen though it's hard to make out. These holes pretty much match where the electric clutch mounts to the engine on an old Jacobsen I have. If you look real close, you can also see the improved front axle pivot bolt(with thrust washer) and vibration dampening pad I put under the engine. Since the pad is rubber, I also ran a seperate ground wire to the frame. UCD, thanks for making the pic come over here.

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SmilinSam
The mechanism that engages that clutch mounts to the left(in picture) side using the two bolts upper left and lower left) that hold the bearing plate to the block. You then have a rod that goes back to the operator inside the ftractor frame and attaches to a second PTO lever on the opposoite frame side of the mower deck PTO lever. I believe the 14hp with the dual synchro balancers must have used the same basic clutch, but with a special bracket fro the engagement hardware, a bracket to fit in around the synchro balancer. Ought to be REAL fun tryng to track one of those down. I'd be happy just to see one. The picture is of a HOmelite and kid of shows the electric clutch on the front for a briggs. The Briggs clutches have a cone that centers the magnet on the engine bearing plate. Sam http://a0.cpimg.com/image/A8/3F/8771240-8006-028001E0-.jpg

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MPH
The sun came out and melted the new snow away, but the 3314 is parked under the semi van I moved the nite before our first 9 inch dump last oct and the dirt work makeing the spot for it was a little off, thus giving me about an inch of water under it this break-up which turned to ice, which has the 3314 and landlord frooze in place..SSooo getting a pic of the front PTO clutch will have to wait til I can roll it out to open the hood, all I could now is the handle on the rt side...sorry..MPH

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