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Katherine

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Posted

Hello,

 

I replaced 2 of the mower blades on my 914 shuttle shift.  The previous one were missing.  Where they went, I have no idea (long story).  The new blades I put on were the center and the left blade.  I also put in new mounting hardware.  However, I can’t seem to get the blades to stay tight.  I thing they’re tight, mow for a little while, then they loosen up.  Now I can’t even get the left one to tighten up against the spindle.  What am I doing wrong?

Posted

Are the belleville (spring) washers turned correctly?  The washers have a slight dish that holds a compression force against the blade when tightened.  The cupped side should be against the spline washer under the blade.  

  • Like 1
Posted

First assumption is you have a deck with splined arbors.  Since it's a 914 tractor, it should have a deck with those kinds of arbors, but the older style decks were sold with newer tractors or an older deck could have been retrofitted to your tractor.  Pics would help a lot.  

As Tom stated, it's important to have the belleville washers mounted correctly.  They are item #18 in this assembly pic for flat blades:

arbor.gif.4646034099fc0947f586039c90481e70.gif

A pic of the blade on the blade adapter:

57e079c8a099e_SpindlesBladeAdaptor011.jpg.21706efef043da9eb70f7dcc579e142a.jpg

Splined washer on:

57e079c8b1009_SpindlesBladeAdaptor013.jpg.8d4bb37885fa9baef0cb58d797f7eeb5.jpg

Belleville washer and bolt:

57e079c8bd3dd_SpindlesBladeAdaptor017.jpg.4d4673655e6ca38a963656fdcdc2bac8.jpg

If you deck has "gull wing blades" (not flat), then the splined washer is different since the hole in the gull wing blade is larger than the arbor shaft (and the old flat blade).  The newer splined washer has a ridge that fits the hole (the newer design prevents slop that develops in the old flat blade setup where the blades rubs the splines on the arbor shaft).  A pic of the two different splined washers:

Arbor_Spline_Washersa.jpg.c5148d53d8a64142e0cb4d5a22441c64.jpg

The bolting setup is the same for the gull wing blade as can be seen in this pic:

GullWingBlade.JPG.a403101fb79815c101d7822c067ad437.JPG

Note the bolt is torqued to 50 to 70 ft-lbs - very tight.  

  • Thanks 1
Posted

I know what a Belleville washer is, but there we none in the mounting hardware.  Details please.

Posted (edited)

In the last diagram, I replaced parts 21, 22, 23, 24 with new hardware.  Those parts had been lost.  All the other parts were still there and tight.

 

What you are calling a Belleville washer appeared pretty flat to me.  I look more carefully.

Edited by Katherine
Posted

I don't have one of the Belleville to measure, but you can get the idea of the diameter from the pic above.  From memory, I'd say there's about 1/16" "dome" (edge to center).  

The Simplicity part number is 1656916.  Dealer used to stock them - they are used on most decks from that era.  

  • Like 1
Posted

That is the part number I used, I'll have to put it on a flat surface and check for the dome.

Posted

Ok, so I got the blades on, everything should be good now right?

 

Wrong!

I turn the key and there is nothing but dead silence.  Previously, the tractor itself ran just fine.  Now, nothing.  I rechecked to make sure everything was in neutral or disengaged and everything appeared to be in the correct position.  Still no sound when I turn the key.  The battery has a full charge and the starter is new.  I’m wondering if one of the safety interlock switches is malfunctioning.  Any other ideas?

 

Please HELP!

Posted

Could be a safety switch, a broke wire, the key switch, or the solenoid.

First thing I would do is check for voltage at the solenoid wire with the key in the start position with a multimeter. If there is power there, then its most likely the solenoid.  If no power there, then I would check to see if there is power at the key switch . First at the battery terminal, then at the start terminal with the key turned to the start position. Helps to have a helper sometimes. If there is power at both those, then its in the safety switches or wires.

If there is no power to the key switch, then I would check the fuse or breaker. If there is power to the switch but no power to the start terminal, then I would probably replace the switch.

My methods anyhow.

On quite a few tractors I have had , I have had to push sideways on the hydro lever to get the safety to engage. Got one here now that is that way.You can adjust those safetys, or bend the tab on the lever to correct that problem.

 

  • Like 1
Posted

I had the same thing happen to me with my 917 and I ended up accidentally fixing it when I removed and replaced the plug onto the back of the keyswitch. Follow SmilinSam's advise and you'll get it eventually. Good luck.

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