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poolshark

mower deck rusted bolts

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poolshark
whats the trick to busting loose rusted bolts on a mower deck, im trying to disasemble it, to change the bearings, i spayed everything with wd-40, and beat on it for an hour with an impact driver only loosing 2 blade bolts, am afraid im going to bend the deck frame if i continue this way, any help would be appreciated, also wheres a good place to buy replacement bearings for the deck and center pto A/C Big Ten with 32 inch deck Thanks Randy Powers airart2@msn.com 541 344-9569

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Dutch
For loosening rusted bolts.... you can't beat heat. Apply heat throughly to area. Turn bolt gently in both directions going a little farther out each time. If you can't use heat, soak with Kroil or PB Blaster for several days (WD-40 is next to worthless). Replace with genuine bearings available from Simplicity dealer. Follow directions in manual. Don't forget to seal housings.

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poolshark
do you think a propane torch will do it or do i need to light up the oxy acetaline, or will a heat gun work, those pully bolts, do you just block the blade with a chuck of wood or remove the assembly and do it in a vise, pulley bolts wont budge

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poolshark
thanks everybody, i bought a can of pb blaster and soaking everything now, will try all your methods till succesfull or the decks destroyed, anybody have a 42inch deck in excellent mechanical condition for a reasonable price? Thanks again Randy Powers

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thedaddycat
Hareware is cheap compaired to most other parts, cut them off with an angle grinder and replace them if that's the easiest route. If they're that rusted you won't re-use them anyway, will you? Just another option..... I have some penetrating oils called Tasgon and Lubri-Tasgon that seem to work well, but I have no idea where to get them from as I got them in a box of mixed junk...... A few drops does the trick for most jobs.

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HubbardRA
I agree, grind them off and throw them away. A new bolt is more likely to come off next time. If they don't come loose, I don't waste time with them I use either a chisel or grinder. Either end can be removed. Usually very quickly. Quick disassembly leaves more time to admire your creation when you finish. Rod H.

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Dutch
The "cut off" method is great for bolts WITH nuts. But if you're working with bolts in threaded holes, that's a whole different ball game. Drilling out what's left can become a major repair. That's why I suggested heat while turning the bolt gently in both directions going a little farther out each time. Save those threads.

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HubbardRA
Reply to Dutch! Since he said "Mower Deck" and there are very few threaded inserts on my mower deck, I recommended the grinder. You are perfectly correct about threaded holes. Never grind and drill one if you can get it out otherwise. I have done it with both good and bad luck. Wasn't trying to dispute your advice. By the way, I like your rake and will probably build one. Rod H.

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Ron_B
Randy: I like PB Blaster, but I got a can of Zep 45 (I think that's the #) in an old F-100 I bought, and it works great--better than Blaster, IMHO. My dad, who restores medium and large chain-drive trucks from the teens and twenties, really likes it as well. However, sometimes things have to soak for days, or more, with multiple applications, especially rust-seized engines. I was able to loosen a rusted kingpin on an older F-100, the bore of which had extremely tight clearance, by heating w/ oxy/acetylene and respraying w/ PB Blaster, and later Zep. Soak it, work it, heat it, work it, beat it, work it, repeat. However, I'm in agreement re: the angle grinder, if you can access the bolts easily enough. They'll probably be throwaways if you did unscrew them, so if they won't come, I'd probably cut 'em off. Peter

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