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B207 questions!


Cree

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Good Morning all.  New guy with what may be some of the same old questions.  I'd love to say I've been lurking for ages, but it just isn't true.  A couple weeks ago, I saw an old AC B207 here for sale in South Georgia and I thought it might be a fun project to play with.  I already restore old stuff, furniture, guns, and cars, why not old garden tractors?  Anyhow, the price appeared to be right - $200 for a well used but not abused complete tractor and mower deck.  No real rust, no major challenges.  THis weekend, I'm planning on getting around to some deferred maintenance - tune up, etc.  but I'm trying to get my ducks in a row before I get to Friday.  

Normally, I have pretty good luck searching, but even the last few nights, I have to admit, I've got a learning curve between old garden tractors and the stuff I "know."  

In the meantime, can anyone give any assistance on two pressing questions I still haven't found answers to?  

Number one - this B207 has a single-wire ignition switch and a starter button.  Now, the wire that switch connects to goes (on mine) to the governor, then is bolted through to another wire that, on my tractor, is just sort of flopping around and headed loosely in the direction of the carb.  There's enough wire to get ALMOST to the voltage regulator ... but...   I can see in some of the service manual pages where the wire is, but not where it goes.  Anyone help me out with an answer?  I won't lie and say I've worn out the "search" function, but I have spent a lot of time "Googling" with no real luck.  If my guess is correct, this wire is really simply a kill wire ... I just don't know where to hook it up and don't see any broken wires or fasteners elsewhere in the engine.  It seems that finding where this wire "lives" will allow me to actually use the key instead of unhooking the spark plug to shut down the engine.   (I have the grill and the "hood" off of the tractor to facilitate my tune up this weekend and cleaning out the gas tank, too.)  Theorizing this wire may need to simply be grounded (and trying that) did nothing, so it obviously isn't as simple as I'd like to make it.  

Number two - What recommendations do you guys have for tires?  I've got slow leaks in two and the front left is shot.  I know the "spec" was ... maybe?  5.3/4.5 .. something? for the fronts.    My newly found limited knowledge seems to indicate that isn't how lawn and garden tires are measured anymore.  Can someone translate?  (and for the rears, too, please? )   I know the common 6 inch wide front tires of today aren't going to fit and since I have all four "hubcaps" I really want to use them.

I promise to share some pictures as I can take them, but work has kept me busy since I brought this one home.  I really have appreciated the knowledge already available on the site and I hope to be a good student as well as share in what I'm learning...  Cree 

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1 hour ago, Cree said:

this B207 has a single-wire ignition switch and a starter button. 

 

1 hour ago, Cree said:

If my guess is correct, this wire is really simply a kill wire .

I believe you're on the right track.  I don't know about the small frame tractors, but it sounds like your B-207 is wired the same as my early B-110.  The wiring diagram and a pic of the "dash":

Wiring.JPG.d1813da7d86c1f28f3d374fba166ee1c.JPG

IMG_2090.thumb.JPG.eaafd14209a674f1b3f0de3eddbb501f.JPG

Although the wiring diagram doesn't show the "kill" wire on the "push button start models" the key switch shown above has a wire that runs to the mag to ground it to kill the spark.  On the horizontal shaft engines, the wire ran from the dash key switch to an insulator tab mounted on the points cover where is connected to a wire that runs to the mag.  When the key switch is "off" the wire is grounded.  Many times, after years, some part of the wire rubs and grounds out effectively killing the spark.  Many time the solution to this problem is to disconnect wire closest to the mag so the engine will run.  Then to stop the engine, you choke it at idle until it dies.  

Hopefully someone familiar with the small frames will be able to tell you how the wire was positioned.  

 

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10 hours ago, PhanDad said:

On the horizontal shaft engines, the wire ran from the dash key switch to an insulator tab mounted on the points cover where is connected to a wire that runs to the mag.  When the key switch is "off" the wire is grounded.  Many times, after years, some part of the wire rubs and grounds out effectively killing the spark.  Many time the solution to this problem is to disconnect wire closest to the mag so the engine will run. 

Your engine is likely the 10 HP Briggs? The wire went from the switch to the tab on the points cover. Will have to look, but I think it is under the cover. That tab can break, allowing the wire to ground when it is not supposed to, causing much aggravation..trying to find the problem. One of us knows this to be a fact. It runs out of the firewall, behind the carb, and over to the points cover.The governor arm has a tendency to rub it. I replaced mine last winter, put the exposed wire in black plastic conduit to extend its life a bit.

 

I would either ground the plug with a screwdriver or similar than choke it to death..

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Thanks PhanDad - I took care of the front tire situation today after work and found I need to press in a new bearing on the hub.  Take care of that tomorrow, but I appreciate you shedding some light on this wire.  I’ve already seen several posts discouraging “choking” the engine, so I’ll start taking a look into where and how wire might be “reused.”  

 

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Okay - quick update - with PhanDad and Mr Steele’s advice, I went back and dragged out the big flashlight and yes, peering under the cover, i can see what sure looks like a spot where this wire pulled out of by the mag.  I took the carb off earlier today to soak in my own witches’ brew of PineSol and hot water (Works really well for older carbs you aren’t sure of but know are filthy inside) and with that little bit of extra room, I think I see where I’ll need to go to get this sorted.

 

I appreciate the help guys!  Tomorrow, gotta figure out some new bearings for the front wheel - pulled tonight and one is eaten up.  

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Those so called bearings are still available from Simplicity

I restored a B 207 a few years back , it's all documented here on Simple Tractors, I just don't know where to refind it.

I also have 2 sets of original front tires and wheels

Edited by 720nut
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10 hours ago, PhanDad said:

I bet your post will help @Cree a bunch.  

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/53843-b207-restore/

 

Thanks Bill just read thru it , a lot of memories.  I showed it to my Dad and he couldn't believe it was same tractor.

I since have sold all the small frame stuff and it went to central Illinois, wishin I still had it would have made an awesume tow tractor for my mini

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720 Nut, that was a great job you did on that little B207.  I’m not goin that far with mine, but it was in “dirty and neglected shape” not “abused” besides - it’s almost hunting season, but I’m enjoying playing around with it and addressing the deferred maintenance.  Tracked down some wheel bearings at NAPA, (I think) I have the key switch wired up properly now (to the Mag), and I’ve been steadily cleaning as I go.  Back tire is off the bead, so I’ll handle that tomorrow night and hopefully get ‘er rolled out of the garage Saturday for a good scrubbing.

Tonight I retrieved the carb from the PineSol bath and blew it out.  Took it as far down as I could and thee bowl, needle, and all of the linkages move freely and look fine.  Got it put back on the engine and the fuel tank reinstalled along with an inline filter.  Picking up a new generator belt tomorrow, so should be able to fire tomorrow night.  Little engine ran great when I bought it even though it was neglected.

...Then start on the deck - sharpening blades, checking bearings and belts, and likely to be spraying some Oxpho on the underside.  Looking at it tonight, there’s some corrosion, but not too bad.  

I look at this project as simply a good functional cleanup and the chance to learn a few things about these old machines.  Besides, it’s a LOT cheaper than restoring the F100 I was looking at! 

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