Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
MrSteele

For the Kohler folks

Recommended Posts

MrSteele

I started the K301 that I have been working on for a while in..well, a tractor, today. Cranked right up, and blew oil everywhere. The gap in the ring, looking down the bore looks to be about .015, likely worn out. But, the engine runs, and this tractor will only be used for ride and show, since there is no deck, and I do not intend to look for one. Will a Kohler blow oil through the valve cover excessively if the crankcase is overfilled? I have been playing with the machine off and on all day, and the oil situation seems to be inproving. The oil level is now just under full, was just over full when I started it up, earlier. There is not as much oil spurting out of the valve cover, and splattering a whole lot less. It is not blowing oil smoke out the muffler, which I think it would be doing if oil were pumping through the rings. Previous owner said it was losing power, but the assumption by me was the .000 valve spacing on the intake, and .002 on the exhaust


I am wondering if the overfull was my only problem. If overfull causes that, I am good to go if I can ever get that dang carburetor adjusted. There is no such thing as idle, and trying to throttle up or down kills it.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Chris727

If its clearing up then I suspect being overfull might have been the problem. It is not unusual to find the breathers improperly assembled resulting in problems also. 

  • Like 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MrSteele

The breather is assembled as I have seen in all the breakdowns online. I removed it just to be certain. Reed valve, baffle with space between baffle and reed on each end, spacer, then cover. I checked, there was nothing coming out except air when I tightened the nut properly Friday night. Saturday morning? Here came the oil again. Not as bad, but still coming out. The dipstick was barely touching the oil, or, time to add oil. There is still no oil smoke at the muffler, only liquid oil at the breather, around the rubber tube between the cover and breather housing.

Another thing. I changed carburetors to one of the imports available online, since I could not make the engine run on the original. I think the float (plastic) is ruined, and am checking to see if another is available. It ran better on the new carb, still blew oil, but could not use it. I was at a tractor show and did not have enough tools to modify the linkage on the carburetor(cut the end off the throttle arm) to allow it to operate properly. The arm hits the back of the air cleaner housing and does so at full throttle.

As always, any help is appreciated. 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Brettw

Has the oil issue improved as the engine warmed up?  I don't think a slight overfill should cause excessive blow by out of the breather.  Note the word "slight".  It could be as it warms up the rings expand a bit and lessen the wear issue, hence less blow by.   It doesn't take too much work to pop a set of rings in one of these.  If it's just for show and you won't be working it too hard, I'd get a set of rings, a quick hone and call it a day.  It will probably help with the blow by and it will run better, and a set of rings aren't but 10-15 bux, and a complete rebuild kit with gaskets, piston, rings, rod, etc are about $60.  Might be worth it to look into?   Just a thought coming from a guy who has a lot of those thought still sitting untouched out in his garage........

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MrSteele
1 hour ago, Brettw said:

Has the oil issue improved as the engine warmed up?  I don't think a slight overfill should cause excessive blow by out of the breather. 

With the old carb, 30 seconds is about all it will run. wait a few seconds, start, 30 more seconds, and so on until it gets warm. Then, it might or might not continue to run. I think the float has sunk. In research, I found that old floats do not particularly like the use of ethanol in gas. My float sat in ethanol gas til it finally evaporated. I did not like putting it back in, but as yet, I am unable to find one to replace it. It felt kind of spongy, but is supposed to be hard plastic. The 125 series of tractor had a throwaway carburetor, apparently, parts and hens teeth are alongside needles in haystacks on the shelves.

 

1 hour ago, Brettw said:

It doesn't take too much work to pop a set of rings in one of these.  If it's just for show and you won't be working it too hard, I'd get a set of rings, a quick hone and call it a day.  It will probably help with the blow by and it will run better, and a set of rings aren't but 10-15 bux, and a complete rebuild kit with gaskets, piston, rings, rod, etc are about $60.

 

I was trying to get out of that. But, I have a few months til the spring show season down here, and if I cannot stop it and make the engine run without blowing oil consistently, the rings are an option. I had a floor full of Simplicity last winter, guess I can have a floor full of Ford/Kohler this winter. The carburetor is still an issue, no matter what I do. And where do you find a rebuild kit with all that in it for $60??

When running, it sounds great, smooth, no smoke out of the exhaust, plenty of power for riding in parades, probably enough to cut with, if I had a deck. I likely have a stuck ring from the thing sitting for about 15 years in the basement of the PO.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
RAC

Remember that there is a up and a down to the K style breathers. There's a tiny little drain hole in the inside shell that must be at the bottom. Also. The Crank case is really vented through a hole about halfway up the side of the wall between the lifter galley and the governor BUT the oil returns to the case through a 3/16 +/- hole in the back of the lifter galley that goes into the lower portion of the cylinder. Make sure both the breather assembly drain hole 1/16 +/- and the lifter galley drain are open.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MrSteele
On 10/8/2019 at 12:08 PM, RAC said:

Remember that there is a up and a down to the K style breathers. There's a tiny little drain hole in the inside shell that must be at the bottom.

The up was up, but the little hole had a gasket behind it. There was no way for the little hole to do anything but be there. I have it apart again.. I bored the hole out to 1/8, making certain to cut through the gasket behind the hole. More of my problem was that the fuel pump cover and its gasket, interfered with the valve cover, causing it to not seal on one corner. A little work with a hammer and small chisel removed the excess gasket, and I was able to push the cover down slightly to avoid the valve cover. The drain back into the crankcase is completely open, so that should drain properly. If this does not work, rings, here I come!

There is still a carburetion issue, that might have been solved with the chinese carb. Will know more, soon. Stens lists a float for the original carburetor, that I would rather use than the chinese part. If I can get one, I will put it in the original and let it ride til something else happens that requires a change

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MrSteele

Well, the chinese carb was a bust. I reworked it as required, even had to change the choke linkage and plate due to improper action on the new part. The engine acts as it did before the change, and the chinese junk , shall we say is not adjustable, in that no matter how or which direction you turn the screws, the engine runs the same, until the screws are completely removed, which kills the engine.

So, back to the original carb. A question, though still remains. The engine will start and run as long as I hold the starter engaged. I wired according to a schematic I found, so I am assuming that is all ok. All connections cleaned and tight, wire nuts replaces with shrink wrapped, soldered connections. With the point cover removed, I can see spark jumping across the points with the starter engaged. Release the switch, and no fire seen, as if I turned the switch off. New switch, new solenoid, new wires... To add aggravation. Sometimes the engine will continue to run, sometimes it will not. Rectifier?? Condenser??

HELP!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MikeES

Could be a bad/wrong switch or wired wrong.  On the Kohler with  battery ignition, the on position should have power to the coil, in the off position it should be open.  So you have power to the coil with the switch  in the start position and the motor runs, but spark goes away in the run position, maybe because you no longer have continuity from the battery to the coil.

I had a switch on a 718 (Kohler 18HP) that did not have power to the coil in the start position (drove me nuts as the engine did not fire while cranking the engine but would fire and usually start when I back the key to the run position.  Took me some time to figure out what was going on.) 

Easiest test is to run a small wire with alligator clips directly from the positive on the battery to the + on the coil.  This bypasses the switch and all other interlocks.  Once running you will need to pull the wire to stop the engine.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MrSteele

Well, what it turned out to be was neither the condenser, though I put a new one on, or the rectifier. The previous owner, an electrical engineer, had bypassed the seat and deck safety switches in a way that only an engineer could understand. He had removed the switches, and with wire nuts and a short piece of wire, made 2 connections with the short piece of wire between the proper connections on each side of the switches. One of those short pieces of wire came loose. So, the tractor thought that a safety switch that is not even on the machine anymore, was not made up. All those connections are now soldered and shrink wrapped with the short pieces of wire and all the wire nuts gone. Starts and runs as it is supposed to. Had to play with the carburetor a bit, and still not really happy with it, but. After letting it run for a long time, I drove it out of the shop, down the drive, down the road, played with both ranges of the tranny, and parked in under my lean-to in the dry. Thanks for all the help and ideas.

The next thing in the shop will be a 72 Ariens, with another dang K 301, so, I have not learned anything in vain!!

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now

Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • Drhulv
    • BLT
    • rokon2813
    • Alltractoredup
    • simplewrench
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. comet66
      comet66
      (73 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • MARK (LI)

      MARK (LI)  »  Alltractoredup

      ...This is Mark from Long Island ....Gene told me that you are selling  FEL for a Sunstar....the link he sent me does not take me to it ...I am not on FB myself, but my wife is...is it just on the AC  / Simple group, or is it on the Marketplace?
      · 1 reply
    • F.U.N.

      F.U.N.  »  sandyhillbill

      Dear Sandhillbill
      Can you please copy me on this data, for Sun Star parts list.
      :
      September 12, 2004 Mike I sent you a PM and have all the mfgs. available for the tiller/hitch/pto/liftgroup if you need me to send them to you. Let me know. Thanks, F.U.N.    
      · 0 replies
  • Adverts

×