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Installing Kohler in B110


Tom45

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I am not wanting to start another engine brand war, but I picked up a tired B110 without an engine and have a good K301.  Other than wiring and an ignition switch is there anything I need to do to install the engine?  

Thanks

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I'm not sure if the Kohler gear tooth starter will fit in the relatively narrow FDT frame - the S/G Briggs seems to be a tight fit.  You may have to notch the frame.  

Another issue might be the mounting hole layout. 

Hopefully someone may have the answers to these concerns.  

 

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Kohler ring gear Starter wont be a problem. Those sit up high enough to be out of the way of the frame., and low enough not to interfere with the hood.

The air filter may even be far enough out not to interfere with the hood either. If not, just space it out more using the 1/4" kohler plastic spacers used on some of their engines. You would have to put a gasket between each spacer you use, however  I believe the kohler spacers come with a gasket alreadt adhered to both sides......but I think it may be fine the way it is.

Pan Mounting holes are all the same Briggs/Kohler, so no worries there.

Driveshaft might need different spacing, or a different length driveshaft. Cant remember. You will have to deal with that bridge when you get to it.

Exaust should run out the side as normal

I have had several Kohler repowered B series come through my hands over the years.

Edited by SmilinSam
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It will to an extent depend on what the Kohler came out of and how it is equipped. Many of the "general purpose" engines and some used on welders, etc will have a "low mount" starter. They will not clear the frame if it is equipped as such. To change to a high mount starter, the blower shroud and starter must be changed out. I believe the bearing plate behind the flywheel is the same for both styles. Most of these engines used in lawn equipment had the high mount starters. The general purpose engines share the same mounting bolts as the Briggs. The oil fill and drain locations can also be an issue depending on their location. 

 

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Had a 14 horse Kohler in a B10 puller for a while years ago. If I remember correctly had to use a cub oil pan, so a narrow block. I believe it still had to be spaced up some. I think there were still a couple little alignment issues and I used u-joints on the drive shaft instead of the fiber discs so the drive shaft was basically like the one on my legacy.

 

Edited by RAC
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Now I remember. Took a narrow block cradle out of a Deere, cut it down and welded it inside the B10 frame upside down so the narrow block Kohler would sit on the "adapter". 

 

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