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Dutch

Tire Size

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HubbardRA
Dutch, Pulling is a very inexact science. There are an extreme number of things that vary from tractor to tractor, and track to track. The guy you are talking about probably knows his machine very well and is also an expert on the soil in that area and the sled that he is pulling. I used to pull homemade tractors with motorcycle engines. Went to one pull, pulled late in the class. Most of the tractors were spinning madly and going nowhere. I started out at easily, played with the throttle a little, when I felt the tractor catch some good traction, I nailed the throttle and went out the end. This was mostly due to the weight distribution on the machine. Most of the other tractors could not get enough weight on the rear of the tractor to make it bite. My engine was set farther to the rear than the others. I always did great on what the others called the "bad" tracks. Bottom line is that if you can't drive the lugs of the tires into the soil, they won't have much traction. There is an optimum load per area of the tire that gives the most traction. Too little is bad and too big is also bad, just like adjusting a carb. If you ever have anything that you want to ask about, feel free to email me direct. I love to talk tractors, pulling, racing, whatever. If it has an engine, I like it. Rod H.

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MikeES
Traction vs. friction. As a garden tractor puller, these terms can get intermixed. A racing slick tire against blacktop developes its "traction" from friction between the tire and the blacktop. A deep lug tire in clay developes its traction from friction of the rubber against the clay but also the lugs push against the clay trying to "unbind" it. So a good sticky clay can get very good traction from lugs, but it can also provide substantial friction for turf tires. Loose dirt or gravel is strictly friction between the pieces of dirt and rock. So friction is created by the materials, and pressure against them. So a "narrower" tire (in the right conditions) can create more friction than a wider tire. Most tractor pullers today are looking for good COF "coefficient of friction", with very short or almost non-existent lugs. The tires almost have a fish scale feeling (smooth in one direction, rough in the other). With the high tire speeds, lugs just "dig a hole to climb out of". Most garden tractor pullers have our lug tires shaved down to about 1/4" to 3/8" high and then tapered down to the casing. Mike S.

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Dutch
Just wanted to share some first hand experience. Last year pulled a plow with a 7010 w/ 23-8.50x12 Turf tires. Moderate spin out when hitting hard dirt or deep cut. This year same tractor w/ 23-8.50x12 Ag tires. Couldn't make them spin out. Also tried to pull with a GTH-L w/ 23-10.50x12 Turf tires. Would spin out as soon as went deeper than 3" in soft ground.

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HubbardRA
Mike, You are absolutely right. If you are on clay you just want to grab it not tear it up. If you are on loose soil, you need to grab a big hunk and try to keep it together in a single chunk and not break it up into little pieces with the lugs. I have pulled in both stock and motorcycle classes and have to cut my tires different in each. There is also a difference between the way that different sleds load the tractor and how you set the tractor, the tire pressure, the type of tire, and the brand. We pulled on a track a few weeks ago where sharp tires dug a hole and worn out or turf tires went on down the track. If you run a broad pulling circuit, then you know that the winner is usually the guy who can read the track and the sled the best, and set his tractor to match. Rod H.

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Guest
if you are just gardening i would suggest a 6 x 12 ag tire it has less surface area to "float". It will work it's way down to solid ground. About pulling I have been pulling for about 8 yrs. I have pulled everything from an 8 hp. Mont. Ward to motorcycle engine powered machines. I am in the process of building a new one. Engine is an 1100 Yamaha with a narrowed truck rear end. There are several factors in pulling from engine, tires, length, weight and where weighted, gear ratio, and hitch height is also a big factor. Most of your serious pullers are going to Dick Cepek Giant Pullers, which are very expensive. You can Email me if you have any specific questions on pulling or anything else for that matter. James E.

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Terry9
Since we're on the subject (and I know next to nothing about it) would anyone be interested in a front weight tray for pulling? This is 14 1/2" high and would basically accomodate typical barbell weights. It's 20 lbs on its own, and fits landlords and soveriegns (the notch fits nicely into the front axle crossmember). Terry http://members.cox.net/terry9/Tractor/frontweighttray.jpg

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Dutch
Rod, I wish you puller guys would start a message thread and share some basics with the rest of us. I have no interest in participating in pulling, but the theories intrigue me. For three years now some older guy on a small JD has come in first in a local contest. He runs what appears to be a stock engine and turf tires. He competes against others running 27" AG tires with smoke and flames belching out of chrome stacks. He just quietly smiles as he out-pulls everyone. He told me last year he was surprised the others weren't "ready" for him. He must have some sort of "trick" or "technique".

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