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deck repair


krt

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Okay so I'm a guilty of deck neglect with my Dad's 75th mower deck . Many years ago I sand blasted it and put industrial abrasion epoxy on it. Early this last mowing season I dinged the corner now I should have pulled the deck and hammered the dent out but I didn't . After a season of mowing the dent was paper thin and need attention. So after I attack it with a 90 degree grinder and a cut off wheel and fabricating new pieces to put back in the hole it's at my buddies weld shop to get put back together. When I get it back whats the best way to treat the rust on the rest of the deck so this doesn't happen again minus me running into something. My buddy said when they stamp mower decks out the metal is always thin in the corners which made me feel a little better about my deck neglect.

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A  hard rust inhibitive paint like POR15 is probably the simplest.  I did have one deck sandblasted, epoxy primed, and the underside coated with truck bedliner material.  It has held up fairly well, but is alot of work and expense to do.  Also, you have to remove the shafts and bearings before sandblasting.  

Edited by Tom45
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Last one I did was a legacy deck. Sandblast, ospho treatment, por15 on underside. We'll see. That said, did a 1650 cadet deck YEARS ago. Sandblast, regular rust inhibitive red primer, equipment enamel finish and it's held up great. It gets rinsed out a couple of times a summer, power washed and oiled every fall.

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  • 1 month later...

What I would do is paint the outside so it looks good and paint the inside with molten toilet gasket wax which should keep the air and water away from it for a long time.

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Joke all you want, melt it and paint it on anything and it won't come off for a very long time.

Just pick up a gasket and try to wipe that stuff off your fingers. It wont be long before it's spread all over your hands, pants and anything else you might touch and there will still be just as much on your hands as when you started.

It will stick to your deck and wont come off. Dirt and other stuff might stick to it but even if you try to wipe it off there will be a film of wax on what ever you painted it on. I will bet dollars to doughnuts that it will be there a lot longer than a season and it wont rust under it which is better than paint. The best part is it won't cost you more than $ 3.00

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On 2/13/2020 at 12:29 PM, spi said:

molten toilet gasket wax

Why not just coat the inside with JB Weld???  But it will also stick to your fingers so use latex gloves.

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7 hours ago, lugnard said:

OK... so now you got me wondering on this one. How do you apply it? Melt it in a pan or something then brush it on? Tell us more......

Harry

Yes, I melt it in a pan and apply it with a brush. The only prep. you need to do on old steel is to get off all the old loose rust, no need to remove it all. I usually mix some boiled linseed oil in to keep it from hardening too quickly.

I also use this on the underside of my truck and cars, inside the doors and anywhere else prone to rust. Then every few years I will retouch it in the few places it will wear off.

There are videos on utube about this and I swear by it

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32 minutes ago, spi said:

There are videos on utube about this and I swear by it

I'll go to bat for you on this one.  I also add pure gum turpentine to the wax when heated.  It thins out better & allows it to seep into pores on steel better.  If I remember correctly, one of the videos it is called home made vehicle undercoating.

It's also an old recipe for a paste wax to be applied to gun stocks when its cooled to room temperature. 

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