Slipping hydro or belt

[KenK 0]

I've been told if you run the tractor up against a nonmovable object and the tires will spin the hydro is ok. Could be belt slipping,low on oil or plugged up filter.

[dmcluckie 0]

Something is slipping on my 93 Landlord. When I climb a slight grade (~4%) the ground speed slows noticeably. I have to put the lever all the way fast just to mow at a barely acceptable pace. When I turn around and go downhill, it speeds up noticeably and I have to move the lever slower. The engine does not change speed. It does not lug climbing the grade nor overspeed going down. On a steeper grade, say ~15-20%, it will barely get up the hill. The belt was replaced with a new Simplicity belt less than 30 hours ago. I can't see anything wrong with the belt or pulleys. If it is the belt, then something else is wrong because I can't afford to replace belts every 25 hours. It is a TuffTorq K215A transaxle, with a Sauer-Sundstrand hydro unit. The oil level is full on the stick. The problem gets worse as the mowing session gets longer, I think. Is it the belt or the hydro, or how can I tell?

[Al 6]

Hi, I believe there is a quadrant with 2 pulleys to tighten the belt. Check the pivot and make sure it is free. On the later tractors I believe there is a grease fitting on this pivot. We just fixed one of these this week. On the early Broadmores, this was also a problem along with the bushings on the steeering shaft sticking and causing the hydro lever setting to change when the steering wheel was turned. Problem was result of the nylon material the bushings were made from absorbing moisture from the air and swelling. Material the bushings were made of was changed about 5 years ago. Original bushings can be reamed or the new bushings won't have the problem. We also had to remove the clutch/brake pedal and free it up also. Good luck, Al Eden

[Al 6]

Hi, If you change the oil in the Tuff Torques be sure you get enough oil back in them. There is a dam in the transmisison that separates the rear section fron the pump area. There is a filter material between the sections. This is like a settling pond for metal from the drive gears etc and then there is another filter on the pump input. If you don't want to wait for days for the oil to go in, there is a vent plug on the top front of the transmission. DO NOT CONFUSE WITH THE NEUTRAL ADJUST WHICH IS A LOCK NUT AND SCREW. Clean very carefully and remove the plug. Should take over 3 quarts of oil, nearly 4. If you run it without enough oil in the front chamber may be dry and you may ruin the pump. This filtration system is the best in the industry, This is its only short coming. Good luck, Al Eden

[sask 0]

It could also be that the hydro oil has started to break down and is thinning out more as it heats up, which would explain why it gets worse as the mowing session gets longer. I had the same problems you describe on an Eaton hydro, and a change of the hydro oil solved it completely. Just be VERY careful to make sure you thoroughly clean off the hydro unit and surrounding area before doing the change, and don't let any dirt get into the unit. Pat

[MarkH 0]

Read what Similin' Sam wrote on slipping, in a newer post (above this). And here is a link to same. Let us know if that's it--that would be a neat coincidence. Peter[A href='http://www.simpletractors.com/clubhouse/ShowMessage.asp?MsgID=7428&mode=short&startwith=0']http://www.simpletractors.com/clubhouse/ShowMessage.asp?MsgID=7428&mode=short&startwith=0[/a]