To build a loader!

[Kent 436]

Rod, Have you seen P.F. Engineering's loader plans for a Cub? He uses a very simple cross-piece under the tractor's frame, as shown below. Even though his current plans are for a Cub, they should be easy to modify to fit other full-length frame tractors... At $50 they're priced right. Plus, he's working on a set for a garden tractor backhoe... I'm still hoping to get him to modify a set for the old Simplicity/Allis tractors.... Kent[A href='http://www.p.f.engineering.50megs.com/index.html'][img src='http://www.p.f.engineering.50megs.com/images/loader_off.jpg'][/a]

[HubbardRA 20]

OK Guys! I guess I have to ask the experts. I have a 61 Wards and a 77 AC 716. Don't want to booger up either of these. 61 is used for Pulling, and 77 is used around the home. What does everyone think of the idea of building a loader on a Sears (Roper) with the 3 speed and High/Low range? Do you think it will take the load? I have one without an engine, that I am willing to sacrifice to a loader, since I don't really like the way it mows. The Tecumseh engine died, but I can replace it with a Kohler. I am going to build the entire rig from scratch. I guess if I use a Sears you guys don't want to hear about it and don't want to see pictures. Let me know what you think. I can take it. Rod H.

[Dutch 4]

There seems to be a lot of interest in these small loaders. I'm sure many members would be interested. I don't know anything about them, but from what I gather the loaders themselves are "universal" with the sub-frames specific to the tractor. Keep that in mind if you're going to design one.

[HubbardRA 20]

Dutch, This is why I used the word "sacrifice". Building a "bolt on" subframe is the hardest part. If I decide to sacrifice the tractor, then I can weld directly to the frame, and don't have to spend all of the time designing a subframe. I think some of the members have done this. I am planning to use double acting cylinders with a an "auto-leveling" bucket. I also want quick disconnect, so I can change from bucket to forks, to trencher, quickly and easily. Rod H

[Dutch 4]

Never thought welding directly to any frame was a good idea. Anyway, if you want a "quick disconnect" consider using a double ended / double acting cylinder as engagement pins. Bucket, forks, etc. can be switched without leaving the operator's seat. http://home.att.net/~herb.niewender/da-cyl.jpg

[Woodydel 0]

The old Sears tractors had loaders from Sears. They are good tough tractors...Woody

[HubbardRA 20]

Dutch, I wasn't thinking about anything that complicated. Just some hooks of sorts at the top, and some plates at the bottom like a clevice that you would only have to drop a pin in. Most of the support structure stays with the machine. This is similar to the way a BobCat hooks up their attachments. Just didn't want to pull shafts and unhook cylinders to change attachments. Just keep it simple, like pulling any attachment off of a Simplicity. 3 to 5 minutes changing time is OK. I want a motorized wheelbarrow. Something to bury cables and water lines with. Something to dig holes to plant flowers and shrubs. Something to lift and carry tractor parts to the pickup truck with, and put them in the bed. You know, make things easier for me and have uses that keep Momma happy too. That way she lets me have one. Rod H.

[UCD 15]

Kent, I have already done much of a similar design in rough form. The one I want to build will also have auto-leveling of the bucket. In other words, if the bucket is sitting level on the ground, it will stay level when raised without changing the bucket tilt control. I was thinking of a very similar cross-beam arrangement as that in the picture. Looked at the Sears tractor last night and it actually looks just as easy to attach to as the AC 716H. Probably easier. I am designing for 500lb lifting force at the bucket that will work with a 10Hp engine. This way the hydraulics design can be used on almost any machine. I do not plan to produce a complete CAD drawing set, unless several people are willing to buy them. Rod H.