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Briggs 23D governor probs


EngineDr

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Ive taken on rejuvenating an old (of course) 1964 Wards Garden Mark tractor with the 23D - 0129 briggs engine. I have it running, rather sweetly too, except Im having trouble getting the gov to work properly. It didnt have the two springs from control arm to the gov arm so I looked them up and ordered and installed them in positions relative to those suggested in the OEM manual. I also used a utube vid for reference to see what and where the springs should be. I have tried different attachment locations too, but to no avail! I have moved the anchor point of the control cable up as far as it will go in order to get some good tension on the springs. Mind you, the engine shows evidence of ill-advised  tinkering, so for me as a first time introduction to this model Im somewhat in the dark. The engine idles nicely on the recently new, and cleaned out carb, and responds well to throttling up fairly quickly     ( with fingers) but when it gets to an over-balance point and the gov  overrides the spring tensions, the RPM will go through the roof! And there is very little graduation in the RPM as I slide the throttle control on the dash, until all of a sudden it takes off to wide open throttle.

One thing that puzzles me is the relative position of the gov arm at fully engaged (downward) position  {See 1st pic. Throttle control is in relaxed, idle position} All pics I have seen it seems it should be nearly level with the lines of the frame and engine.{2nd pic} Is this a concern or indicator of something amiss? BTW, the first thing I did was check the gov shaft and arm adjustment. Im assuming that the shaft has a flat side for indexing? Also there is a fair amount of wear in the linkage pieces involved.

Any and all help appreciated. I have more pics if needed.... just ask.

Gov and tank 009.JPG

Gov screenshot 001.JPG

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Attached is a picture of my B&S Model 326431, 16HP.

Governor adjustment. Loosen screw holding governor lever to governor shaft. Place and hold throttle in WOT. Turn governor shaft COUNTERCLOCKWISE as far as it will go. Tighten screw.

B&S Governor Pic.jpg

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Bill I think you have your CCW and CW confused. If I were to do that, it jams the throttle wide open. Or is there an internal issue in the gov mechanism. Hmmmm

As I mentioned in my post, this was the first thing I checked too. I believe it is popular practice to do WOT and turn the shaft CW and secure.

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1 hour ago, EngineDr said:

Bill I think you have your CCW and CW confused.

See attached "Engine Dr."

Engine Dr..jpg

Edited by Bill725
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Posted in an earlier post by AL:
Hi,
The way they teach it at the Briggs school, Forget about clockwise or counter clockwise. [Assuming the correct carb] Just take the governor arm and move it in the direction that opens the carb wide open. Holding the arm so the carb is wide open, loosen the bolt on the arm and turn the governor shaft in the same direction the arm rotated when opening the carb. When the shaft hits the stop, tighten the bolt while the carb is wide open. Same with Kohler. Much simpler than trying to remember cw or ccw. Remember the governor weights must be held in when the carb is wide open and then they work against the spring to control the speed. Also if the engine is hunting, to determine if it is the carb or the governor, turn in the idle stop screw and hold the carb shaft against the idle stop. If the engine idles OK, then run the stop screw in more and hold it against the stop. If it runs good at mid speed with the throttle shaft fixed it is a governor problem. If the engine is erratic with the throttle shaft fixed, it is a carb problem. Personally I just hold the shaft by hand, but in school they teach using the screw for a stop. Good luck, Al Eden

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Bill725,

With all this read and said, the fact still remains that setting at WOT, turning shaft CCW, and tightening clamp bolt results in throttle being stuck at WOT. A side note....there is very little rotation in the gov shaft from full CCW to full CW. True?

Phandad's post above confirms the opposite..... WOT, turn CW and tighten, which allows free movement of the throttle shaft/butterfly in carb.

So...... your thoughts as to why the throttle is stuck WOT with your method? I mean it makes sense because if the gov shaft is turned CCW, it sets that shaft at max against the CCW stop while the arm is at max throttle open.

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Well folks, its fixed. Something evidently none of us saw coming. Incorrect carbureator with correct part number. And its listed incorrectly all over the internet too. So be aware.....pt # 293950 is the original B&S Carb number, but it is being substituted with an incorrect part! I didnt buy this carb, it was attached to the engine when the machine was dropped off to me.

The upper carb half has the wrong style and wrong position throttle shaft. The gov was pulling down on the throttle shaft tab instead of pushing up. There is one left at ebay, but I decided to experiment. I removed the idle stop, rotated the shaft 180deg, re-positioned the butterfly through the split in the shaft to its orig orientation and reattached the idle stop and...voila! It actually works.

Good throttle response, smooth transition from idle to full throttle.  Oh, and CW adjustment of the gov shaft makes it all happy. We cant always believe everything we read..

Thanks for your input and I hope the info I have shared helps someone else in the future. But hopefully they will still have their OEM correct carb to begin with.

 

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From another recent post on the JC Penney 494:

 

"If the lever that hooks up to governor linkage is going the wrong way it will overspeed.

Compare the original carb top section to the replacement carb.

Do not run in this condition. 

I have a briggs with a blown governor due to that overspeed, figured it out to late.."

 

Sorry did not see your post.

 

Edited by GregB
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2 hours ago, EngineDr said:

Something evidently none of us saw coming

 

2 hours ago, EngineDr said:

The upper carb half has the wrong style and wrong position throttle shaft

Pictures of that would have potentially saved you time in the diagnosis.  This is a common problem with the replacement Briggs carburetors.

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  • 3 years later...
Azshoprat
On 8/29/2020 at 1:52 PM, EngineDr said:

Well folks, its fixed. Something evidently none of us saw coming. Incorrect carbureator with correct part number. And its listed incorrectly all over the internet too. So be aware.....pt # 293950 is the original B&S Carb number, but it is being substituted with an incorrect part! I didnt buy this carb, it was attached to the engine when the machine was dropped off to me.

The upper carb half has the wrong style and wrong position throttle shaft. The gov was pulling down on the throttle shaft tab instead of pushing up. There is one left at ebay, but I decided to experiment. I removed the idle stop, rotated the shaft 180deg, re-positioned the butterfly through the split in the shaft to its orig orientation and reattached the idle stop and...voila! It actually works.

Good throttle response, smooth transition from idle to full throttle.  Oh, and CW adjustment of the gov shaft makes it all happy. We cant always believe everything we read..

Thanks for your input and I hope the info I have shared helps someone else in the future. But hopefully they will still have their OEM correct carb to begin with.

 

EngineDr, I had the exact same thing happen to me today. Thanks for posting the solution. Worked for me too

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