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MrSteele

23D questions

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MrSteele

I am finishing a build of a 23D that I likely would not have taken apart if I had known the condition of the rings. It had .0005 wear at the worst place in the bore when I took it down. I ran a glaze breaking hone through and installed a new set of rings. Everything else looked almost new inside, so I lapped and adjusted the valves, repainted, did not need, so I set it aside as a "next project" Since it was in the middle of my floor, next came sooner than I assumed..

My question. Does anyone have a shop manual for a 23D? I can find manuals for most anything Briggs has made, but not a 23D. I have digital copies of most, but the magneto/timing and flywheel keyless key is next, and I want to do it right the first time. Also, does anyone have a source for the seal and retainer for the points plunger? That is another reason I would like a manual, to get the part numbers for these items. I have an owners manual that shows how to put the points in, but it also says that as an improvement, those items were added. The 10 HP on the tractor does not have them, either, but I have never had a problem with oil on the points, just moisture through the cover

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PhanDad

This Briggs repair manual available in the Download forum covers the 23D:

https://simpletractors.com/files/file/20-briggs-repair-manual-ce8089/

Section 2, Page 22 shows timing for the 23D.

Section 2, Page 20, (top left, Fig 58) shows the plunger seal, etc part numbers.  

The above page numbers are from my hard copy of the manual which I believe is a May 2000 version - don’t know what Version the Above one is.  

@Bill725 posted the page (different page number) showing the plunger seal, etc in this post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/64904-landlord-2110-plunger-leaking/

 

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MrSteele

Shortly after posting the original question, I finally found a manual showing the timing. Thanks!

Now, another question. I am getting some strange readings on my multimeter. With the points open, it reads 1. When the points close, I assume the coil/points and wiring is now a complete circuit, so the reading should be high. Does anyone have an idea of what the reading should be? I have no idea why the open circuit reads at all. The points and condenser are new, all grounds are clean and connected.

I lucked up on Amazon with points and condenser. Seems there is an Enginerun store. The parts arrived in Briggs and Stratton packaging. 

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B089LPLM83?ref=ppx_pop_mob_ap_share

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PhanDad

Unless I forgot how the points circuit is wired, one side of the points are connected to ground, the other side to the mag coil and the other end of the mag coil connects to ground. 

So when the points are open the reading is between direct ground on one side and the other side is ground also, but the current goes through mag windings which shows a resistance (1 in your case).  That sounds reasonable for the mag windings, but I'd don't know.  

When the points are closed, the reading should be zero, unless the points are dirty resulting in resistance.  

Hopefully someone, like @BLT, will confirm (or tell my CRS has struck again). 

 

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MrSteele

I did not remove the "key" from the position it was in when I took it down, so I can assume that it is in the correct position, just wanted to check to be sure before reassembly.

Restoration of the tractor it was in will be a great labor of love. New tires, front end seized, front wheels rusted through from sitting in a hole for years, of course, no seat. Will take new wiring, fiberglass discs at the drive shaft, likely would not paint, anyway, but if I did, a frame off job is in order, needs a steering wheel, would have to be a bare tractor, which is not a problem. Grille is there in name only, almost completely rusted away. I would need an almost complete parts tractor to make one out of. Down here in the south, that is going to be hard to find. Please do not tell my wife...I have already started looking. Will have an engine, need something to put it in!

Thanks for all your help

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