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Not AC or Simplicity


720nut

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Forgive me but,  Just got these two and know nothing about them F 745 I plan to keep just in case I need another mower but other will go down the road

Anyway someone familiar with these that can help me out, Lx 277 had a small fire on rite side burnt some wires, F 745 runs good just needs general cleaning 

Know I should be on a Deere site but those guys think there the best that there is and I tire of them rather easily

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Sounds like you could use a wiring diagram anyway.  Can you find the start and termination of each color coded wire and fill in the blanks with new wire?

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18 hours ago, PGL said:

Sounds like you could use a wiring diagram anyway.  Can you find the start and termination of each color coded wire and fill in the blanks with new wire?

I probably can but wiring is not one of my strong points, you guys are pretty knowledgeable on all brands and was hoping to be able to get help here as JD guys like I said before think there something special , Can anyone point me towards a site that I could download manuals and a wiring diagram ? 

Not sure what the  LX 277 would be worth so don't want to put a lot into it, at this point looks like a cheaper battery and some wire ?

20 hours ago, MARK (LI) said:

I may possibly be able to help....what is the problem?

Mark, for one I need a wiring diagram for the LX 277.  Also need the rear covering to say for the F725 and a manual for it .

Owner of LX 277 said it was running fine and all of a sudden it started a small fire and burnt up wiring near starter, I can see why , looks like it should have had a good bath long time ago

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Got to post#8 in this thread  https://www.mytractorforum.com/threads/looking-for-an-lx277-wiring-diagram.1216769/

Green Tractor Talk ...those guys are a little wild...at My Tractor Forum, the JD guys will kid you...but they are really helpful, won't be condescending and are good guys...like on here for the most part...just a much larger site

As for manuals...John Deere is kind of a crappy customer relations company..they have threatened My Tractor Forum with copyright infringement when guys post the manuals....they would rather sell them...it seems they don't make enough $$$$ already....but you can go on the site ( it won't cost you anything)...and ask...someone may be have it and be able to email it to you.

With the turbo blower and bagger on that tractor, if you get it running it is probably a $2,000 tractor..it isn't the AWS model is it?

Edited by MARK (LI)
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You probably already considered it, but if you don't know yet, it would pay to locate whatever shorted and fix/replace before powering up again and repeating the fire.

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The LX277 should have a liquid cooled 17hp Kawasaki engine. These are around 20 years old so they're not worth what they used to be. Made from 1999 to 2003. Some models were all wheel steer.  Maybe you can glue the seat back on with the weatherstrip adhesive as @SmilinSam did with his Prestige. If not the JD seat is around $200. These are known for the plastic hoods breaking. I see at the minimum, your upper hood is broken. If it all has to be replaced, thats around $700 worth of parts. Upper hood only is a lot less.  Does it have an hourmeter? In good running shape, even with the hood damage, I would expect it to be worth probably at least $1000 in the springtime. You'd have to see how others were priced in your area on marketplace/craigslist. Might be able to sell the bagger separate.  Dealerships on TractorHouse have them priced between $500 and $3000.  

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Wow guys I had no Idea it would be worth anything, but guess it is a John Deere.

The hood has several cracks on top rite side but other than that it is pretty nice and for wiring I'll have my son chase it down , he loves wiring  Mark, it's not all week steer, as for seat I'll see if I can find someone who will redo it.

 I thank you guys as always outstanding.

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On 11/28/2020 at 11:40 PM, Chris727 said:

 These are known for the plastic hoods breaking 

Every JD is known for the hood to break :D.......especially in that same spot from simply opening the hood.....And for whatever reason, despite complaining about dealer customer service, price of parts ( think Simplicity is expensive?) and a whole list of legitimate gripes...the JD followers are like lemmings...any way I hope you get it running without too much effort and get a good buck for it! dOd

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I've repaired a cracked kayak (a tree limb fell on it) with fiberglass.  If you do a search on "repair cracked kayak" you'll get lots of references to suggestions and you tube examples of how to fix cracked plastic.  The inside of the hood could be reinforced with fiberglass and the crack cleaned out and filled/welded with the same type and color of plastic using a heater and soldering iron.  Cars now have a lot of plastic body parts, so you could get hints or even a repair from a body shop.  On the other hand, just get it working well and sell it.

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I hit a tree branch and shattered the hood of my X540. Picked up all the pieces, fired up my soldering iron, and while it ain't purdy, it worked!5fc5d9b8d3d2b_DeereRepair.thumb.jpg.8cbfba895872233074e7d676a6e2b01a.jpg

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4 hours ago, Hick said:

I hit a tree branch and shattered the hood of my X540. Picked up all the pieces, fired up my soldering iron, and while it ain't purdy, it worked!5fc5d9b8d3d2b_DeereRepair.thumb.jpg.8cbfba895872233074e7d676a6e2b01a.jpg

Gary, looks good to me , I'll probably just let new owner deal with it unless it would make a big $$ difference.

I assume JD has made them out of this plastic so as to sell new hoods ?

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17 hours ago, 720nut said:

Gary, looks good to me , I'll probably just let new owner deal with it unless it would make a big $$ difference.

I assume JD has made them out of this plastic so as to sell new hoods ?

Cheaper to mold plastic than pour fiberglass (or however they do it).  When I was dealing over the phone with this one the dealer proudly stated that "the hood isn't cracked". I guess a normal occurrence is the hood cracking up the middle. I have mixed search results on just what the hoods are made of. Some say polystyrene, others ABS. What I need to find is another (broken) hood that I can use as filler plastic when I "weld" the breaks. Filler would make the joints better.
What isn't shown is the "foot" on the back of the hood (which is the largest part in the above picture) that broke at the same time. It kinda-sorta latches to the frame, and has broken twice more since the initial break.
 

Edited by Hick
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6 hours ago, Hick said:

Cheaper to mold plastic than pour fiberglass (or however they do it).  When I was dealing over the phone with this one the dealer proudly stated that "the hood isn't cracked". I guess a normal occurrence is the hood cracking up the middle. I have mixed search results on just what the hoods are made of. Some say polystyrene, others ABS. What I need to find is another (broken) hood that I can use as filler plastic when I "weld" the breaks. Filler would make the joints better.
What isn't shown is the "foot" on the back of the hood (which is the largest part in the above picture) that broke at the same time. It kinda-sorta latches to the frame, and has broken twice more since the initial break.
 

I was going to try and use same cement I use on my model trains, not sure it will work or not

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Plastic repairs made by melting are usually not going to be nearly as strong as the original product. If you manage to heat up and melt the broken pieces to the original, there will always be differences in the material where they meet. Just like welding steel, a better bond would need to heat up and penetrate the surrounding material to allow the pieces to flow together at the joint. Just be careful with the repaired area going forward.

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All this plastic hood repair talk reminds me of the old "Spinwelder" kits I used to see when I was a kid.

Need to have Deere make a spinwelder kit for their hoods using green welding rods......

Edited by SmilinSam
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12 hours ago, tripleguy said:

Plastic repairs made by melting are usually not going to be nearly as strong as the original product. If you manage to heat up and melt the broken pieces to the original, there will always be differences in the material where they meet. Just like welding steel, a better bond would need to heat up and penetrate the surrounding material to allow the pieces to flow together at the joint. Just be careful with the repaired area going forward.

The repaired "foot" that I didn't get a picture of broke off when I took the hood off to work on the engine. But it did not break where it was welded; it broke at another place!! Welded it back on, and the other day caught it with my foot and broke it again! This time it broke at my second fix, which I didn't spend as much time on.
I did heat and blend the surrounding material.
 

 

17 hours ago, 720nut said:

I was going to try and use same cement I use on my model trains, not sure it will work or not

Well, if it IS polystyrene, that's the same! I'll have to play with my "foot" and model glue!

Edited by Hick
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7 hours ago, Hick said:

The repaired "foot" that I didn't get a picture of broke off when I took the hood off to work on the engine. But it did not break where it was welded; it broke at another place!! Welded it back on, and the other day caught it with my foot and broke it again! This time it broke at my second fix, which I didn't spend as much time on.
I did heat and blend the surrounding material.
 

 

Well, if it IS polystyrene, that's the same! I'll have to play with my "foot" and model glue!

Model RR er guys talk of glueing all sorts of things with this , name excapes me for now , I'll look it up but big difference between a model setting there and a tractor mowing grass.  I just feel Deere is far inferior to Simplicity, ya don't see these hoods breaking all the time like Deeres do

 

Edited by 720nut
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was going to get pressure washer out and give both of them baths but it's getting pretty cold at nite and don't want a skating rink come morning, so guess they'll just have to wait on the bath

Might load them up and go to car wash.

 

 

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15 hours ago, 720nut said:

Model RR er guys talk of glueing all sorts of things with this , name excapes me for now , I'll look it up but big difference between a model setting there and a tractor mowing grass.  I just feel Deere is far inferior to Simplicity, ya don't see these hoods breaking all the time like Deeres do

 

There is a plastic bond that cures with UV light just like dental bonding. Its called Bondic but not sure it would work for your application.

https://notaglue.com/

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