Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
WaltB

Briggs 191707 Carburetor

Recommended Posts

WaltB
This carburetor drips gas out the mesh hole. So, I take it all apart and clean it. The float needle valve is corroded probably because when I was given this tractor a few weeks ago, the carb bowl was full of water and 1/4" of rusty mud! Anyway I put it back together and now it "pours" gas out the mesh hole! Anyone do any surgery to get the float needle valve to close and stop the gas? Or what do you think, the float looks good after it was cleaned up. Has anyone done a carb rebuild job from a kit. Or, would a rebuilt carb be the way to go?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Not sure exactly which carb this is. Don't know numbers by heart, but have worked on several. If it is a solid metal needle, use some fine sandpaper, wrap around the needle section and turn with your fingers until the tapered section is smooth. See if you can remove the seat. Some come out with a screwdriver. Check the gasket on the seat. If the seat is nicked or pitted, sometimes you can form a new seat by using a drill bit a little larger than the hole and re-chamfering the seat. I had one carb on a 10Hp B/S that ran without a drip, but would drip for a couple of minutes every time I shut it off. Never did figure that one out. Swapped a different style carb from an 8Hp and still running it today with no drips (15 years later). Rod H.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D-17_Dave
They used basicaly two types of carbs on these engines. One with a metal seat with a metal needle that has the rubber tip. Two the metal needle with the rubber seat. The ones with the metal seat seem to me to be the ones that are the most difficult to stop leaking as with all the crap in the fuel nowadays it eats the metal up and the metal seats are hard to get to to clean properly. I have changed carb heads on a number of engines to help solve this problem. If the carb. is in as bad of shape as you say I would just replace it with a new one. You'd be happier in the long run. As for carbs that leak after you shut the engine off, if a carb leaks just a little the engine uses the fuel as fast or faster than it leaks by the needle valve... thereby only showing up after you shut it off.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
dlsven
I rebuilt the carb on the 16HP B&S engine, on my Sovereign, which was full of water and had been sitting for 3 years when I bought it. The gas tank was also full of water. I used a carb kit that I bought from the B&S dealer for about $15.00. I had never rebuilt a carb before but the tractor runs fine now. The kit includes a new seat, new float, new valves and some other parts. If it's like my carb you need to take out the needle valve that runs at an angle up through the carb before you can separate the parts. There are other posts on this site that tell you how to adjust the carburetor after you've rebuilt it. You will probably need to replace the fuel filter also.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
HubbardRA
Try a rebuild kit. It is pretty straight forward. I've done dozens of them from tractors to cars to motorcycles and others. Usually have pretty good instructions. Be sure to remove the emulsion tube before removing the float bowl. I broke a tube that way. They won't run with a broken tube. Rod H.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Guest
This topic is now closed to further replies.
Sign in to follow this  

×