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dhoadley

Dead battery

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dhoadley

Went to start and move the A/C917H and the battery was dead. Real dead. 0.0 volts unless I scratched the probe on the multimeter, then I got 0.1 volts dead. It's an Interstate NF22 that I got in April. I guess that the ignition key could have not been completely off, but it was not left in the RUN position. The lights don't work, but I forgot to check if I accidentally kicked that switch to ON. I'm pretty weak in the electrical arts. I'll need very specific instructions. What should I do when I reinstall the recharged battery? Thanx, Dave

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PhanDad

Before you install the battery check the resistance between the positive cable lead and ground. It should be infinite. 
Try the switch in various positions and check the reading. Should be zero resistance in the “start” position.  
The “run” position would probably be zero resistance since the ignition coil is powered in the “run” position. 
Wiggle the switch it the “off” position and make sure the resistance stays infinite. Sometimes the internals of a switch wear and make slight contact when they shouldn’t. 
 

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CarlH

Let's go through the basics.

Have you load tested the battery? (you can get this done where you got the battery) If you haven't, that's OK but it is possible the battery has an (small?) internal short that is draining it when it is installed.

Put the freshly charged battery in and hook up only the positive cable.  With the ignition switch OFF AND the light switch OFF hook up your multimeter to measure current between the battery negative terminal and the ground cable.  The current should be 0.000 amps.  Next measure the current with the ignition switch and the light switch in all their positions skipping the START position.  START will pull a lot of amps.

This should give us a hint of what is going on.

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MARK (LI)

I agree that you should take it to "point of purchase"...let them load test it....a battery that got discharged so much is probably shot......I would just tell the guy that you went to start it...and found it dead...it could still be under warranty

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RAC

Before you give up on that battery and assuming it hasn't frozen get it charged up real good and then maybe load test it. They can't test a completely bad battery and if it is door-nail dead as you say they'll likely tell you it won't take a charge (but that's not necessarily true).

It may not "want" to charge, especially if you have a newer charger since they have to sense a certain voltage to charge on the regular , automatic, and trickle settings. you can usually get around that by doing the following:

Hook up your charger:

Turn it to the "boost" setting for about 5 seconds or so. Then off. wait a few seconds and hit it with the boost setting again for maybe 10 seconds and then turn it directly to the trickle (2 amp +/-) setting. Most times that will fool the charger into staying on. If not boost again for a bit longer. Charge it over night to a full charge staying on the trickle setting.

Works most of the time if the battery is any good at all.

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MikeES

I have an older (not smart) 3a charger that I can put on a completely dead battery.  The gauge on it will show no charge for sometimes several hours, but eventually it will start showing the full 3a going into the battery.   

I have saved many batteries that have been "completely shot" and are still working great many years later.

This old stuff comes in handy to have.

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dhoadley
15 hours ago, MARK (LI) said:

Dave...did you get  a chance to get back to this?

Going over after church today. I'll report back tonight or tomorrow morning.

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dhoadley
On 1/18/2021 at 12:02 PM, PhanDad said:

Before you install the battery check the resistance between the positive cable lead and ground. It should be infinite. 
Try the switch in various positions and check the reading. Should be zero resistance in the “start” position.  
The “run” position would probably be zero resistance since the ignition coil is powered in the “run” position. 
Wiggle the switch it the “off” position and make sure the resistance stays infinite. Sometimes the internals of a switch wear and make slight contact when they shouldn’t. 
 

Passed this test perfectly. Dead solid when wiggling the key.

On 1/18/2021 at 12:05 PM, CarlH said:

Let's go through the basics.

Have you load tested the battery? (you can get this done where you got the battery) If you haven't, that's OK but it is possible the battery has an (small?) internal short that is draining it when it is installed.

Put the freshly charged battery in and hook up only the positive cable.  With the ignition switch OFF AND the light switch OFF hook up your multimeter to measure current between the battery negative terminal and the ground cable.  The current should be 0.000 amps.  Next measure the current with the ignition switch and the light switch in all their positions skipping the START position.  START will pull a lot of amps.

This should give us a hint of what is going on.

0.00 amps when OFF. 2.47 amps when in the RUN position. Toggle for the lights made no difference. With both bulbs dead, I don't know which way is ON/OFF. I guess and leave it down as OFF.

13.05 volts on the battery. Cranked right up and charge went to near zero within a minute. Ran for another minute or two, then shut it down. I'll try again next weekend. I'm thinking I may have left the key in the RUN position. Thanks for the help.

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