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elias

simplicity 3415s coil, shroud, driveshaft, etc etc

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elias

Hello all, 

 

New to the forum, and new to Simplicity, having just scrounged a 3415S.  Not new to engine work.  Engine series 325431-0126

 

My question is this : I want to get at the coil, in order to clean the laminations, check air gap, check armature/flywheel timing - Looks apparent that I will have to unbolt the driveshaft in order to remove the blower shroud, screen, and v-belt pulley (to the starter/gen).  Is there anything I should be forewarned of before I do this?  I'm planning on supporting the driveshaft so it doesn't just hang there/droop down and stress out/break/whatever the coupling at the rear.  

 

Tough access even with the battery and gas tank removed, I am anticipating a fair amount of cursing and grunting.  But that's why we do this stuff, right?

 

In terms of the problem I'm getting at : No spark, well an occasional weak little orange spark that wouldn't start a wheelbarrow.  Going through all the usual suspects, I have gapped and cleaned the points (which looked pretty good), cleaned/replaced all connections that I could, nice charged battery, replaced the spark plug boot (non-resistor!), etc etc.  Using a little spark plug "gap jumper" that I use all the time on little motorbikes and such.  Not the light up kind but the kind where you can adjust the gap.  I strongly think that cleaning up the coil will help my cause if not fix the problem, it's got to happen anyway.  Its a real mess under there, looks like Jerry from Tom and Jerry set up a fine little house there with a picture on the wall and a little matchbox with pillows, blankets, and sheets to sleep in.  That little guy lived well.

 

Anyway to reiterate my question : I will be removing the pulley, blower shroud, etc, and need to disconnect the driveshaft.  Let me know if the voice of experience (or inexperience) has anything to tell me before I embark on this little journey!

 

This site looks great.  It's already been a big help, and I thank you in advance.

 

Elias

 

 

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GregB

Disconnect driveshaft, two bolts, wire harness and 4 bolts to frame, yank engine.

Pretty sure you cannot pull shroud with engine bolted in place.

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elias

Thanks Greg!

 

Yeah...I was hoping that might not be the case, but somewhere in the back of my mind I knew it was a possibility.  Kinda rough for just wanting to get a look at the coil (well it has to be done, I know it's a mess in there even if I can't see it directly).  But of course....that's why we do these things.

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GregB

Forgot to mention the throttle and choke cables also. 

The one corner of the four mounting bolts should have a "special" bolt.  The head is rectangular and fits the recess formed by the foot of oilpan, and the sides.  Its so tight no way to get wrench in there.

 

 

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PhanDad

I think I remember being able to avoid disconnecting the fuel, throttle, and choke when I got to a Briggs coil years ago.  It might have been on a FDT which has a different frame than your tractor (and a more complicated "hood").  

I'm sure I removed the hood.  Then completely removed the S/G to reduce weight and disconnected all electrical wiring. 

After disconnecting the driveshaft, and un bolting the engine, I was able to lift it a few inches and rotate the engine counter-clockwise.  My assistant then slid a piece or two of 2x6 under it.  

Might not be worth the hassle.  

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elias

Ah thanks for the replies!

 

I already have the carb off and fuel, choke, throttle, etc disconnected so that won't be a problem - I've been meaning to pick up an engine hoist anyway - I've got a chain fall and a good support for it so I may use that.  I will just have to quit griping and lift it out - as you guys have indicated - it's an actual significant task, but not that big of a deal!

 

I'll keep posted on progress.

 

Next Simplicity task is getting the parts tractor.  A 3314H lying on its side in a snowbank on a muddy hill with no wheels on it.  It's gonna be an endeavor.   

 

Thanks again!

 

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ShaunE

If it has a mower deck installed, remove that first so you can access the underside easier.  As stated above. Hood bolts x2, fuel line, throttle & choke cables, wiring harness, driveshaft bolts x2, engine bolts x4.  Remove engine.  Shouldn't take you more than about 20-25 minutes depending how clean things are & how easy they come apart.

Pay close attention to the orientation of the spacers & special washers on the flex disc coupler.  The orientation should have the rounded or beveled edge against the disc.

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PhanDad
3 hours ago, ShaunE said:

Pay close attention to the orientation of the spacers & special washers on the flex disc coupler.  The orientation should have the rounded or beveled edge against the disc.

Great advice - if the "special washers" are installed "backwards", the fiberglass disk can be cut.  Then the driveshaft can start flapping around; definitely something you don't want.  

 

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elias

This is all excellent advice!  Thanks so much everyone.  Knowing not just the "how" but the "why" (fiberglass disc can be cut, for example) is key.  Makes working on things more fun.  

 

May hold out until I get myself a proper cherry picker engine hoist - so's I can lift the engine out and roll it over to the workbench and can give that motor a good cleaning and benchwork.  

 

Neighbor came over a few minutes ago and he's gonna put the bucket on his dozer and help pick up the parts tractor.  The parts tractor is a total wreck but obviously I can't let it escape my grasp.

 

Thanks again all.  As I expected, I like this forum and the folks on it .

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ShaunE
8 hours ago, elias said:

May hold out until I get myself a proper cherry picker engine hoist

I have one of these.  It's called a Ted Hoyer Lift.  Used for transferring patients.  Can be purchased fairly cheap if found @ Goodwill or other resale shops.  Very expensive to purchase new.

Hoyer Lift.jpg

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elias

Haw Haw!  I am gonna keep my eyes peeled for a Hoyer Lift - and yeah, that is an interesting honor to have your name attached to a "people lift"!  I may end up still with a HF or equivalent engine hoist, reasonable enough price, and I've got plans (that have been mulling about for a many a year and may continue as only plans for many more) with a 283 motor and my truck and station wagon...

 

hurleyii - yes tis the original engine with points and condenser.  In fact I picked up new B+S points and condenser to install.  I'll admit it.  I like points!

 

 

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hurleyii

Do you have the original engine in this tractor with points and condenser?

 

I have brand new bushing, plunger and rubber thing magig

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