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hurleyii

Duetz Ultima hydro pedal installation day 4 update. Back to the drawing board.

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hurleyii

Post will be severely edited in the next day or 2. However I have com up with a way to use the majority of the cub parts minus brakes but including the use of the Cubs auto return to neutral. Being loaned a welder has completely changed my options.  Picked up the tank today going to fill tomorrow.  If you have been following my post we have learned what NOT TO DO!!
 

Well pretty cut and dry guys as it says spent the day on it today after working out the motor running and shaking kinks. So here is a list of repairs I've made so far with pics at the end. Pics not in order. 

1st.      pull 2 carbs and make one good carb ... Check and double ✔️

2nd. Locate tractor shake✓✓✓ Dam motor mounts!!

3rd . Replace motor mounts✓✓

4th. Dam it Didn't readjust ignition pickup after cleaning contact points. 

5. Finally it's alive again and running amazing.

6. Crap...  Front hydro seal leaking,  and the shakes rubbed thru hydrolics line.

7. Stop teasing everyone and on with the show!!!  Pic's!!! 

Ok day 3 

1st guys don't judge the welding Im not using gas at the moment. 

2. Fender is a spare so don't panick. 

Now on with the update. Hydro pedals are all hooked up temporarily. Not happy with the amount of throw the pedals have though. Need to figure out a way to shorten the throw. I'm thinking that if I raise the bolt location of the mounting point on the hydro that should shorten it a bit. If it wasn't for the height of reverse pedal it wouldn't be bad .  Reverse pedal is about 1” to high. I have to trim the reverse hole some more for a little better fit as it's to tight. Also If I can figure a way to shorten the throw of the pedals the backup hole will be much smaller. If I can't I will have to come up with a custom bracket and not use the factory CUB rod as I don't want my whole to be 6” plus. 

I may take it for a test drive tomorrow. 

As for neutral engaging automatically I may be able to adapt the cub parts for that as well but I'm thinking about keeping the factory lever for the purpose of thowing it in neutral if I have to hit the brakes in an emergency but also making a block off plate for the pedals to work correctly or just removing the handle itself. 

You guys thoughts are welcome and appreciated!

 

 

 

 

 

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Edited by hurleyii
Updates day 3
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PhanDad
33 minutes ago, Hick said:

I'm confused. What is the yellow pedal about?

 

Based on the title, I believe the yellow pedal is for foot control of the hydro speed.  

 

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Hick
1 hour ago, PhanDad said:

Based on the title, I believe the yellow pedal is for foot control of the hydro speed.  

 

Definitely interested!!!! That lever on the dash is a death wish! Like the two pedal system of my Deere.

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720nut
7 hours ago, PhanDad said:

Based on the title, I believe the yellow pedal is for foot control of the hydro speed.  

 

guess I missed the point too, definet improvement over the hand lever

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hurleyii
11 hours ago, Hick said:

Definitely interested!!!! That lever on the dash is a death wish! Like the two pedal system of my Deere.

Yes especially if your installing a loader on the tractor! 

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hurleyii
31 minutes ago, CarlH said:

Will the foot pedal control direction and speed?

Yes it will. I'm still trying to determine if I wish for automatic neutral or not. Only thing I'm not sure how I can do is make the brakes disingage the hydro.  I am editing original post as I go to try to make this an article that can be saved for future use and simplicity. After studying this being done to several models I believe I may do this to a Sovereign as well. I have gained enough knowledge to do it but not sure if I'd have the needed space to do it. 

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hurleyii
2 hours ago, CarlH said:

This is getting me excited since I have loader(s) to mount on Sunstars.sm01

Easy, no need to go into personal details!  :)

 

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Hick
8 hours ago, CarlH said:

This is getting me excited since I have loader(s) to mount on Sunstars.sm01

Care to part with a loader? I'm trying to find one for my Deutz-Allis 1920.

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Hick
9 hours ago, hurleyii said:

I am editing original post as I go to try to make this an article that can be saved for future use and simplicity

I see what you did there . . . 

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hurleyii
2 minutes ago, Hick said:

I take it the outboard pedal is forward and inboard reverse. If so, that is just the opposite of a Deere.

Front pedal is Forward and the back pedal is Reverse just like normal. That's why the linkage is below the frame. I was originally setting it up the other way then realized I had to change location or add a second shaft to reverse the direction the pedal would pull the hydro for it to be going the wrong way. 

 

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hurleyii
29 minutes ago, Hick said:

Care to part with a loader? I'm trying to find one for my Deutz-Allis 1920.

I'm batting the idea of building one based off my Kwik way loader. I'm not going to do that without getting shielded gas for the welder though that has to be quality welds with good penitratrion. Boogered up welds won't cut it on that stuff

 

 

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hurleyii
1 hour ago, CarlH said:

Would the single brake pedal setup simplify things?

 

 

Yes very much and if it's a dedicated loader and you removed the hydrolic lift cylinder there would be plenty of room for a 2nd shaft for the mechanism to be above the frame and not hanging below. I believe the entry level rear axle would make things much easier as well. I originally started on my actual Sunstar frame which is base rear axle and it was going to be very simple even with needing a 2nd shaft to reverse the pull so forward pedal worked in forward position and so on. However when I walked over and looked at the parts donar I quickly realized that with a 2 speed and locker there was zero room. Now I think if I removed the lift cylinder I could make it work. 

P.S. all fabricating is being done on my Ultima frame which is in fact cracked badly and separated at the center counsel mounting to frame point. Somebody tried welding it but didn't do a good job and didn't pull it back together to do it.  So once fabricating is complete all parts will be finished and transfered to the 16hp Sunstar frame.  It is in fact cracked at same location but is still just beginning and not separating badly so it's fully repairable with no major headache . I believe I will go pick up a tank of argon some time today so I can properly weld as it's time for subframe building just about. 

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CarlH

The single brake setup is required for the factory loader.  It is a simple change.  Remove a brake pedal, a couple of linkage rods, and a pivot thingy.  Then install a different linkage rod.  The factory loader does not require removal of the lift cylinder but the loader rear bracket might be a PITA.

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hurleyii
3 minutes ago, CarlH said:

The single brake setup is required for the factory loader.  It is a simple change.  Remove a brake pedal, a couple of linkage rods, and a pivot thingy.  Then install a different linkage rod.  The factory loader does not require removal of the lift cylinder but the loader rear bracket might be a PITA.

Well I do not have a factory loader designed for a Sunstar. I have the Sears Suburban Kwik Way model from what I’ve been seeing online that I got off a cub 102.

The only reason the deck cylinder is in the way is cause of the pedal hydro I’m doing and it’s only in the way if I want the linkage of said pedal to be above the frame level. I would prefer that but it will require adding another shaft to reverse the linkage so when I step on the forward pedal it would push the hydro lever back. So to get proper direction out of your pedals you either have to have linkage below the frame or add a second shaft to reverse the direction of the connecting linkage to rear axle.

Again there is plenty of room to do this on the base rear axle but the 2 speed locking axle takes up the space. It’s possible the cylinder hose could be relocated and then it may work as well. But I am trying to do this on a low budget.

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hurleyii
5 minutes ago, CarlH said:

BTW,  PeppyDan converted a KwikWay, I believe, loader for a Sunstar.

Yes he did and I am in direct contact with him but I am also trying to respect his decision to leave the community as much as possible. I do have a couple questions I may have to ask him but the kwik way loader I have the reservoir is built into the right pillar which is what makes me believe it’s for a Sears based on the info I’ve found on eBay . So I am doing all I can to not bother Dan unless I have no choice. I have run into many issues researching his build though. Despite all the links I’ve found to it I’ve had to actually go thru everyone of his post to find his article. I also believe the part I found is missing info and I should of continued going thru his post.

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