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smalljob

64/65 Simplicity Landlord

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smalljob

Last August I brought home an Allis Chalmers B12 and I documented my restoration and learning experience with much help from this community. https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/64747-b12-came-home/

I mentioned that the seller had an older Landlord that I might go back for. When I called him he said that someone else was coming for it and I forgot about it. The other day he texted me and told me that the person never showed up and after several months of saying he was coming he finally gave up. I said I would take it. It is in much rougher shape than the B12 was.

Engine moves a little bit ( I pulled the plug and poured in some marvel mystery oil)

Started Generator is seized

Steering is seized

No fuel tank ( but I have one that needs repair but should work out fine)

He gave me a 10HP Briggs.

This one has the 9HP Briggs according to the serial number tag. So I think this is a 64/65. Maybe you guys can either confirm or set me straight. 

My goal today was to get the pulley off the front PTO and the muller off ( definitely an injury waiting to happen) and then get it into my barn under cover. With those two things done, I will be able to get the engine out and up on the work bench like I did with the B12. It is under cover, probably the first time in who knows how long. Like the B12 this was sitting out in an open field with no protection. Like most of you I have a million things that need to be done this spring so I am not sure how fast I will work on it, but glad to have it. 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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smalljob

After loosening  the S/G with a wrench, I bumped it over with my battery pack and it spins but growls badly. So good news is the start circuit works. I ordered the bearing and brush kit. I have rebuilt probably 6-7 of these over the years and all but two worked fine just with this kit. I have had two unfortunately including the one on the B12 that did needed new armatures to charge. Hoping that is not the case on this one. I pulled it apart so while waiting on parts I will get this cleaned up and painted.

The belt to engine was broken and the engine is noisy when turning over by hand so I would not want to turn over under power anyway. I am pretty sure the noise is rust and crap inside the shroud and not internal but not taking any chances.

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smalljob
6 hours ago, Chris727 said:

Very much looking forward to your progress!   Have you ever replaced the studs in one of these generators?

No I have not

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smalljob

Does anyone have or know where I can access the parts catalog for this 23D engine? I went to the B&S site and they are looking for the 5 digit number.

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Bill725
1 hour ago, smalljob said:

Does anyone have or know where I can access the parts catalog for this 23D engine? I went to the B&S site and they are looking for the 5 digit number.

PM sent.

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bnolte

Looking to see out in its former glory.  I have a Landlord 101 that's been scattered around my garage for the last 3 years when life pulled me away.  Once the weather warms up,  i can get back to painting and reassembling it. 

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smalljob

Got the parts in for the S/G, just have not had an opportunity to put it back together. I did pull the carb off and like everything else it is a mess. Couple of pictures show it. Never seen the nut on the high speed jet broken before. I soaked it white vinegar for 30 minutes and then fresh water to get the white and green mold and corrosion off. Cannot get the emulsion tube out. No surprise there. I was able to separate the body however without taking the tube out. I have done that before with these smaller 3 screw carbs. Not able to do it either larger 4 screw carbs. Emulsion tube totally clogged and I am sure much of the other passageways. Will let it soak overnight in a can of carb cleaner and the run it in the ultrasonic clear for a bit. Have to see what I have for parts lying around to put it back together. 

If the engine runs I will invest in a rebuild kit or if I have to an after market carb. I’d rather keep it original if I can. On my B12 I ended up with an aftermarket carb and it rubs great.

 

 

 

 

 

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smalljob

Got the S/G put back together and bench tested. Checks out good. Got the Carb back together with some old parts I had lying around. These parts were much better than what was in the carb. The big unknown is the condition of the emulsion tube where I can't see it. It looks clean and I blew compressed air through it. Of course the seat where the high speed jet sits could be less than desired. The original needle ( see previous post) was really corroded and would not move. Hopefully the carb will be good enough to run at some level. Drained the oil to pull the engine. This had to be some of the worst, dirties, thickest oil I have ever seen. A lot of sediment also. I think I will be pulling the head and the sump at a minimum. When I reworked the B12 I did this also and I was glad I did. There is no real good way to get all that sludge out without running it and changing many times over and over again. I'd rather bite the bullet and clean it out and inspect things at the same time.

I also sprayed some of the parts that rusted up bad. Steering, clutch peddle, and lift linkage is all rusted up. This will be a long project to see if I can get them freed up. Can't believe how people leave this stuff out with no protection from the elements.

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smalljob

Went out to the barn tonight to try and get a few things apart. Ugh ! I need an exterminator!!

Surprisingly I was able to get the pulley off with some PB Blaster and only a little heat, but the tins are really rusted. Not sure how many I can save.The big shroud I can probably repair with fiberglass like I did on the B12. Really glad I did not try to run this. I would have totally destroyed what little integrity is left. 

 

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smalljob

I have never run into this before. Does this key tab have to come off to get the flywheel off or is it just thereto prevent the flywheel from spinning on the crank shaft? I don't want to break off that small bolt and would rather leave it alone if I don't have to remove it.

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smalljob

I was able to get that key off. but not having much luck with the flywheel. Pulled the head and you can see some marking in the cylinder walls. Pretty sure it was where the rings were sitting for who knows how long. So at a minimum it will need to be honed. I will try a little longer with the flywheel, but if not I will pull the piston and check out the rings. Hopefully they are not damaged. I was also able to get the rusted and mouse eaten coil off. So I think my plan is to pull the pan and get the piston out, hone the cylinder and hopefully put it back together with a new magneto and maybe points and condenser ( I have not even looked at them yet) and see how it goes. Minimal investment to see if I have a viable to engine. The valves do go up and down. I will also clean them up, lap them and check the gap. If it needs boring I am going to have to get that flywheel off and crank out.  Any tips much appreciated.

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smalljob

It looks like the coil is NLA but there are a few available but quite expensive. Couple of questions.

1) Any reason I could not set this up with a battery ignition system like on a Kohler engine?

2) I checked the resistance on this coil with the beat up wires and it measure about 5.8K. I know on the standard coil it should be around 2.5-3k. Just wondering if these 3 legged coils are different. I guess I have nothing to loose if I can figure out how to repair the wires on this one.

 

 

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PhanDad
3 hours ago, smalljob said:

1) Any reason I could not set this up with a battery ignition system like on a Kohler engine?

That's a common conversion.  It does take an ignition switch replacement in newer tractors, but I'm thinking your tractor doesn't have one.  So you just need a switch to power the external coil.  Here's a link to Ken Williams Conversion from the old site:

https://simpletractors.com/research/do-it-yourself/__magneto_to_coil/

 

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smalljob

I pulled the piston and the valves today. First the very good news. The journal and the connecting rod surfaces look incredibly good. Especially considering the grime and filth of the oil. Cleaning the oil pan was like working with a thin layer of tar. The not so good news is the IMG_0184.thumb.jpeg.741b731a95ab37c66beb3cb02eace941.jpegoil ring was stuck in the piston in one spot. I was able to clean everything real good and get it to move freely and there are no indications that it will stick again. Ha! famous last words. I did hone the cylinder and to be 100% correct it should be bored, but at this time I am going to see how it goes with everything cleaned up real well. I have not even looked to see if oversized parts are available. I do want to measure the bore before I put it back together for reference. Points are totally corroded. The contact point on one side is completely gone. They do move and the inside of the engine looks remarkably clean. I don't usually hone with parts still in the engine, but because I could not get the flywheel off I ended up doing it. I will need to clean everything really good before reassembly. 

I need to decide if I will try and repair that coil or just go right to the 12V battery ignition setup. as much as I try to keep things original I am leaning towards the 12v ignition.

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