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Horvik

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Horvik

Hello;

I swapped out the older 16 HP Briggs (Gen/starter) to the same 16 HP Briggs BUT with the 10 amp dual lead on it.

When I run it and turn the lights on , it swings almost full left , then back to center. it does this about every five seconds. I am thinking the regulator/rectifier is bad. The stator check out good.

Appreciate any ideas /help with this.

All the best

 

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PhanDad

From your description, it does sound like a rectifier issue. 

However, according to this chart from the early Briggs Repair Manual (CE8069) the 32000 series didn't have a 10 amp dual system:

image.thumb.png.dabdab80a53070026523856dc34a60a5.png

The dual systems shown are 3 amp DC/5amp AC per the written description.  Here are pages 63 through 65 that describes those systems. 

image.thumb.png.8a851f8b2d141ea1cea027fc7994de3f.png

image.thumb.png.efb5e7b04f0859fbb92e062ebe4e13c0.png

image.thumb.png.68687f0652d9778513b869a7571f9315.png

I have the "early" type on my 7016H:

IMG_8985b.JPG.7fffafaefeb69114010ceebcfff007d2.JPG

The AC connection (red circle) wasn't being used.  The lighting feed wire was connected directly to the battery at the solenoid terminal (blue circle).  Although the service manual above describes a rectifier under the blower housing, the parts manual doesn't show one.  My setup has a "rectifier" (looks like a diode to me) in the wiring before the fuse in the DC side.  It's  #475A in alternator 474B in this IPL:   

604d8b07e7d28_32640016hppartslist02Mar_Pg24Top.JPG.4456310e9542ad96da423ec090f9ff1d.JPG

Is your system different? 

I haven't had the blower housing off this engine to see if there is a rectifier under there.  Have you?  

Maybe a Briggs electric expert can give some guidance.  

 

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PhanDad

I checked out an earlier version of the Briggs repair manual called "Service and Repair Instructions" (Part No. 270962).  I think in the editing process to the newer CE8069 manual some info was garbled. 

After looking at the older manual, I don't think the 3 amp DC/5 amp AC dual circuit alternators (described in my post above) have a rectifier inside the blower housing. 

Selection chart from older manual with a few differences:

image.thumb.png.2d957584085ac993582f9298aa8f764b.png

 

Here's the 3 amp DC/5 amp AC dual circuit info from the older manual.  It doesn't mention "old" or "new" style, but in the figures there's two end styles shown.  It's different.  Note Figure 170 that shows testing the diode.  It isn't in the newer manual.  And in the new manual, I believe Figures 760 and 765 were interchanged.

image.thumb.png.69fa20fb150eefd3811794c014035e9b.png

image.thumb.png.4c32f6e9cb1e0b07abdb06a61cea1637.png

image.thumb.png.9140b421d7b6fa07bae33c75335f400d.png

 

The other dual circuit alternator type isn't listed for the 32000 series.  It's on page 55 of the old manual:

image.thumb.png.e3482824b2459c11d71f8f898b03e70f.png

It has a rectifier inside the blower housing and appears to be for a vertical shaft engine.  If so, that would explain why isn't not in 32000 series parts manual.  

18 hours ago, Horvik said:

I am thinking the regulator/rectifier is bad.

So if your system is the 3/5 amp system, check the diode.  

 

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Horvik

Hi Phandad;

 

I am reading over your advice and have to study more on this one. I was reading from my genuine Briggs book that I do not know the exact name of other than it is the factory and from what I gathered it said I had the 10 amp two wire, however after reading what you said , I shall double check. Nother thing, I was reading more of you other posts regarding wiring and was going to recheck what I have over what you said in that earlier post.

I know I purchased that chinese regulator of amazon , so that for sure could also be the problem as you say. I will get back to you once I had the opportunity to look further. I must say you provide excellent documentation...Thank You!

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PhanDad
1 hour ago, Horvik said:

Hi Phandad;

 

Here's a picture of the rig in question . Hope this helps

IMG_20201022_122211_171.jpg

That's not a "dual circuit" system.  The dual circuit alternator system has two independent "power" wires as shown in the pic of my 7016H above.  The AC wire (white in my pic) is hooked only to the headlights since they operate fine on AC current.  The issue is, the brightness varies with engine speed (at idle, very little, if any light).  And since the lights are wired directly to the AC alternator, they don't work if the engine isn't running - hence many people change the headlight power supply directly to the battery (as the PO did on my 7016H).  The issue is, with heavy headlight use, there's not enough amps (3 max) to keep the battery charged.  I've installed an electric lift on my 7016H, and with heavy use, it'll suck down the battery.  

Your system is what I'd call the "standard" alternator regulated system.  It only has one "power" wire.  It's DC and either 10 or 15 amp depending on the flywheel magnets.  

When you turn your tractors lights on, the alternator should deliver the current directly to the lights and not use any battery current.  I believe the regulator is failing intermittently; when this happens current is drawn from the battery causing the ammeter to go negative.  

  

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Horvik

In a dual circuit alternator as illustrated above, will it work to remove the diode from the lead coming from the alternator stator, and run them directly to the 10 amp voltage regulator?

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