Horvik Posted March 27, 2021 Share Posted March 27, 2021 Hello; I was repairing the alternator on the Briggs 327437 / 2527-01 motor, replacing the regulator with a new Briggs one. Now I have output as follows, when you start the engine then rev it up some, it goes about 2 amps to the right. When I turn on the factory headlights, it goes about 6-8 amps to the left, moving about 2 amps to the right when you give it throttle. The stator checks good for continuity, and not shorted to ground. The AC output of same ranges from 20 some to 30 some volts. DC output ranges from 12 volts to over twenty. I did find a break in one of the two wires initially, but repaired it with solder. Battery is new and fully charged, connections are clean and tight. To me, it should be putting out more...what do you fellas think? All the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhanDad Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 I think your system is working OK. From the Briggs Service Manual: So it appears your stator is working properly. 18 hours ago, Horvik said: To me, it should be putting out more...what do you fellas think? The current output will depend on the state of your battery and any additional load (lights). It also appears your regulator is working properly, although 20V seems high to me. Hopefully it's momentary. I believe the ammeter readings you mention are at different throttle positions. To be more precise, you should check the light draw with the tractor not running (say 7 amps). Start the tractor and raise the throttle to max (3600 rpm) where the charging system can give it's full 10 amp output. Note the ammeter reading - I'm thinking it'll be about 2 amps positive showing that your battery isn't fully charged (as far as your voltage regulator thinks). Then turn on the lights. The ammeter should deflect to the left and might show a momentary negative reading until the regulator increases the amperage flow. The ammeter should settle back to the initial reading. The charging system is feeding 7 amps to the lights and 2 amps to the battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horvik Posted March 28, 2021 Author Share Posted March 28, 2021 Phandad; With the key switched on , tractor not running, turn on the lights it shows approximately a 6-8 Amp draw ( to the left). Now turn the lights off, start the tractor, ammeter shows up to 2 amps charge (to the right) as you advance the throttle to full governed speed. Now turn the lights on, with engine running, the needle goes to the left (discharge) to about 7 amps the advance the throttle , goes to about 5 amps (still discharge). So that to me looked kinda funny and am thinking on it. I appreciate your good help. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PhanDad Posted March 28, 2021 Share Posted March 28, 2021 I agree, that's not right. Since it's a new regulator and the stator checks out OK, I wonder if you could have lost a magnet? Other than that, I'm out of suggestions. Maybe @BLT has a thought. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 Was the regulator polarized? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horvik Posted March 29, 2021 Author Share Posted March 29, 2021 blt; This is a solid state regulator/rectifier so if it needs to be polarized it is the first I heard of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BLT Posted March 29, 2021 Share Posted March 29, 2021 1 hour ago, Horvik said: blt; This is a solid state regulator/rectifier so if it needs to be polarized it is the first I heard of it.then rerighten You are correct. I have trouble with one of my rectifier/ regulators were I have re loosen the two mounting screws and tighten them to give it a better bond and the regulator jumps into action. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horvik Posted March 30, 2021 Author Share Posted March 30, 2021 That's fine then. In my Briggs book, they say check the stator for continuity. Understood, but what should that value read and at what meter setting? In other words i had checked for continuity, but exactly what should that 10 Amp stator read as they don't list that specification? All the best Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Horvik Posted March 31, 2021 Author Share Posted March 31, 2021 blt; So if there is a ground problem as you mentioned do you suppose that could cause it to charge 2 - 4 amps, rather than the stated 10 (or so) amps? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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