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thedaddycat

Putting the Putt Putt back in service

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thedaddycat

I'm going to be the Putt Putt back in service after letting it sit for ten years. I had pulled the engine so I could replace the starter generator belt but never got back to the reassembly part... Look closely and you may see some goodies in the pics.

KIMG1064.JPG

So here is the Putt Putt, a 1965 Simplicity 725. It has a three screw carb and the old oil bath style air filter. There are tiny flip caps on the S/G so you can oil the bearings. It had the glass bowl sediment filter but that's off for now.

KIMG1068.JPG

Here I've upgraded the Briggs Model 19 with some computer parts. That's the sheet metal top of an old computer case. The shroud was rusted away and I wanted the edge bend to tack weld it to the original shroud.

KIMG1066.JPG

Here's the money shot, goodies galore if you know what you're looking at. Who wants to play "I Spy"? The reason I'm putting the Putt Putt back in service is so that I can use the sleeve hitch. Apparently these are no longer being made. I'm glad I found mine, and since the 7112 H lacks a rear lift there was only one choice. I have a lot of oddball stuff that I'm willing to make deals with if anyone wants to do some horse trading.

Edited by thedaddycat
Started on phone...
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Chris727

One of the most memorable posts about the putt putt was when you pulled that big stone out of your garden with it. I need to get my putt putt going again too. The old 700, has been sitting around 10 years due to continually blowing head gaskets. 

Edited by Chris727

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thedaddycat

KIMG1077.JPG

Here are a box scraper and a really old spring tine harrow along with the second sleeve hitch. I don't recall why I added the offset sleeve and bolt. Maybe it was for the moldboard plow...

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Here is 18 yards of compost on my front yard. I did a lot with the dozer blade on the 7112 but wanted to use the other implements for the finish work.

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It's kind of hard to see, but between the truck and the grape arbors is where I plowed the 1/2" crushed stone and sand up over the last few winters. That also needs some box scraper attention. I have to back up and pull away due to the drop off where the big stones are.

Some of the long time members may notice a bit of a change in my yard. I built all of these stone walls, mostly by hand. "Powered by Armstrong" as they say...

The gas tank on the Putt Putt leaked and I just got the Lab Metal in today so I'm going to try to get the pin holes sealed and then we should be good to go. BTW, I saw in another post someone talking about the jets on am old carb. I looked today and you can still get rebuild kits for the Model 19 three screw carb.

Edited by thedaddycat
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thedaddycat

KIMG1079.thumb.JPG.8b4becbbb8657a1acc9948413b2156dd.JPG

Ok, here is the Alvin's lab metal that I'm using  to fix the gas tank.  We can on the right is the one I got in which seems to be somewhat dried up . The can on the left is the high temp lab metal here at work  which is a lot thinner.  I guess I need to put some lab solvent in my can and let it soften up. KIMG1078.JPG

Here you can see the rust holes in the gas tank. They're on either end of the high-tech spatula that I'm going to use to apply this material.

 

KIMG1080.JPG

Here is the first application. You can see it stays in a somewhat plastic State as it dries. Once fully cured it can be sanded filed drilled and tapped. I'm going to end up painting the entire bottom of the gas tank with it. Once I'm happy with that, I'll put a bunch of BB's in it and bungee cord it to the rear wheel of my other tractor. Cheap man's way of sandblasting the inside of the tank... I'm using BB's because that you can retrieve them with a magnet.

Edited by thedaddycat
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wwbragg
11 hours ago, thedaddycat said:

I'll put a bunch of BB's in it and bungee cord it to the rear wheel

May I suggest 5.20 Lb. Rust-Cutting Resin Abrasive Tumbler Media from Harbor Freight?

media.jpg

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thedaddycat

Not only are the BB's magnetic, so is the rust. Just saying...KIMG1081.thumb.JPG.cd057b7f3795d46f20d899256f51644c.JPG

So here is the second coat applied to the entire bottom of the tank. If you look towards the top, you'll see where the battery rubbed and where I did the same sort of application over a decade ago. I don't think it's holding up to poorly, do you? I plan on finding out one can to do a surface coat of the entire tank. It gives it a skin of aluminized epoxy for lack of a better description to seal the outside of the tank. You can make it one two or three coats however many you want. I plan on using the bee bees to blast the inside of the tank after I have the outside skin coated. Once the outside has been coded and the inside is cleaned, I'll take a really thinned out version of this material, poured into the tank, and drive around for a while. The inside of the tank will then be coded along with the outside. The original steel is sealed between two layers of lab metal. Hopefully it will keep the original intact for another hundred years or so...

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thedaddycat

Look guys, at this point in my life I have no skin in the game so to speak. I have a bunch of stuff that I don't want or need. Actually that I never even really need it... So if there are people out there that need some of the eyeball things I have oh, that's fine great and good. I'm willing to make your wish come true. You just need to be willing to help me find what I'm looking for. I know I've written Tech articles about all kinds of old stuff that most of you will never ever see in your life... I mean my 725 is from 1961 or 62 and I've had one even older than that... at this point most of you will never even see some of the things that I've had and gotten rid of. Now it's my turn to give back to the Tractor community. What do you want, what do you need, what can I help you with?

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thedaddycat

Sometimes you win, sometimes you lose... I tried to repair the pinhole leaks in the bottom of the gas tank with Alvin's lab metal. It worked great until I put gasoline in the tank, then it just reverted back to putty. So I guess rather than using expensive lab solvent you can use gasoline too thin the stuff back out.

So now I know that JB Weld clear epoxy and lab metal both don't work on fuel tanks. That's okay I've looked up some other things that I'm going to try. And I'm really glad I didn't get to doing the inside of the thing with the lab metal before I did this...

KIMG1088.JPG

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PGL

Check with a fiberglass supply shop.  They have some mixtures that are immune to gasoline.  Let them now what you need it for and they should be able to fix you up.

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PhanDad

I've used this with success on my T-12 plastic fuel tank:

SealAll.thumb.JPG.2e53f30ad69c7b7c4c9b6669bee9bb09.JPG

But the repair was along the top seam where gas splashes but it isn't constantly exposed.  

 

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SmilinSam

There are fuel tank sealing products out there that basically coat the inside of the tank and seal up any leaks or small holes. However, they seem to run in the $25-40+ range..and at that kind of price you might as well just break down and buy another good used tank.

On that note, I think I once used a Simplciity Yeoman tank in a 725. Was that basic same shape and size if I remember right. Fill  cap location does not matter for a 725, and the exit point might be able to be worked around. ( I dont remember where it is on the yeoman tanks) I worked around it anyhow)

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PhanDad
3 minutes ago, maxwood said:

Hello, Here is a plastic alternative, I dont know if the dimensions will fit your needs.

Thanks Ken in Mi

 

https://www.usplastic.com/catalog/item.aspx?itemid=104079&gclid=Cj0KCQjw1PSDBhDbARIsAPeTqrc7LEH-DkehyOoDF4DPO-CFS53ZOQko423mJFOy3PS-LJJ_Ia6iSrMaAuW0EALw_wcB

Interesting - but when I looked for the outlet size I was surprised to find this comment:  

  • Fuel lines, fittings & carbon canisters need to be added by end user

When my T-12 bottom outlet failed (a molded in 90 deg turn - no room for a standard Simplicity type outlet) I cutoff the molded fitting and  screwed in a 90 deg brass hose bard (pipe thread into tank).  Used the above sealant, but with use it would leak.  Vibrations breaking the sealant and there wasn't much "meat" for the pipe threads.  

Have you ever had success installing a fuel line fitting to this type of tank?   

 

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Paul M.Murphy

I was wondering if you could use automotive body filler over what you have there. I used body filler

on the underside of the mower deck.which was badly rusted. I also got some aluminum rods that just 

need a small propane tank to use.

Just a thought

Paul

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thedaddycat

I looked up a couple of options for products meant to seal fuel tanks. The JB Weld tank repair seems to set very very quickly. Some of the comments were that it seemed to set up in a matter of about 3 or 4 minutes instead of 8 or 10.

Well AutoZone was supposed to carry the JB Weld product, my local store had a Permatex product instead. This product has a much longer working time, but it also has a much longer cure time to. The JB Weld is supposed to be usable in 30 minutes, this stuff you can work for an hour it sets in 5 and fully cures and 24.

In any event the first picture is of the tank cleaned off again. The holes seems to get bigger each time... the second one shows the Permatex product in place on the bottom of the tank. Now I just need to let it cure.

KIMG1090.JPG

KIMG1089.JPG

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thedaddycat

KIMG1091.JPG

Here is the tank with the Permatex repair sanded down. I applied it about 8 hours ago, so it's well set by now. It came out pretty well using the orbital sander with 80 grit pads. They are hook and loop so it's easy to change pads or grits for sanding. In the case to the right you can see buffing pads in the kit.

KIMG1092.JPG

OK, I'll admit that I wanted to just go for it and put gas in the tank. Well, just because I have to wait the 24 hours for a full cure doesn't mean that I can't remount the tank now. When I get home this afternoon I'll do that and I should be good to go.

Edited by thedaddycat
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thedaddycat

KIMG1097.JPG

Another try, another fail. I think I may have sanded down too much and uncovered another pin hole.  You can see the flaking and peeling on the right end.

So I gave up on the original tank for now and "borrowed" the one from my snow blower. I never used it last winter, opting for the one mounted on the 7112...Look closely at the material between the battery and the gas tank. That's what is used to mount big transformers on, called isolation mounting pad or something like that. It has vertical ribs on one side and horizontal ribs on the other side with a thin layer connecting both sides. I have some on the bottom of the tank, too.

KIMG1103.JPG

So here we go... The Putt Putt with the sleeve hitch, box scraper and front counterweight. I had two different lengths of front lift rod in the bin of cultivator parts. I used the short one, the long one rests on the front tire. 
For those who are into it, I pulled out the rope starter and wound it around the rope cup. For those of you who have never seen it, the right side BGB pulley on the oldies has a rope cup so you can pull start them. The model numbers are different for manual and electric start. 

Edited by thedaddycat
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Horvik
On 4/10/2021 at 6:14 PM, thedaddycat said:

I'm going to be the Putt Putt back in service after letting it sit for ten years. I had pulled the engine so I could replace the starter generator belt but never got back to the reassembly part... Look closely and you may see some goodies in the pics.

KIMG1064.JPG

So here is the Putt Putt, a 1965 Simplicity 725. It has a three screw carb and the old oil bath style air filter. There are tiny flip caps on the S/G so you can oil the bearings. It had the glass bowl sediment filter but that's off for now.

KIMG1068.JPG

Here I've upgraded the Briggs Model 19 with some computer parts. That's the sheet metal top of an old computer case. The shroud was rusted away and I wanted the edge bend to tack weld it to the original shroud.

KIMG1066.JPG

Here's the money shot, goodies galore if you know what you're looking at. Who wants to play "I Spy"? The reason I'm putting the Putt Putt back in service is so that I can use the sleeve hitch. Apparently these are no longer being made. I'm glad I found mine, and since the 7112 H lacks a rear lift there was only one choice. I have a lot of oddball stuff that I'm willing to make deals with if anyone wants to do some horse trading.

That's a beauty you have there, they don't build anything that good anymore. I have a couple of them!

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thedaddycat

KIMG1142.JPG

 

 Here is the original carb and the replacement carb . There's one slight difference and it's very subtle but it has a huge impact.  Any guesses? 

The arm on the throttle shaft of the original carb is on the right side of the shaft in this View and needs to be pushed up in order to open the throttle plate. The new carb is 180 degrees out. Minor surgery will be required...

KIMG1143.JPG

Here's the original carb in an exploded view. I could not get the seat for the float valve out and opted not to try to force it or use Heat. In the upper right you'll see an extra gasket seat and float valve along with a spare intake manifold gasket.

KIMG1144.JPG

Very gently use a 3/32 punch to drive out the roll pin from the throttle stop. You'll have to take the screw out and remove the throttle plate in order to rotate the shaft 180°. Then you'll have to put the throttle plate back in the right way. Now instead of the screw going through a through hole and into a threaded hole it goes through the threaded hole first. Not the best but it will have to do in a pinch. With any luck the original carb will be running fine with the rebuild.

 

KIMG1145.JPG

Here are the two carbs side by side. The arm for the throttle linkage is now in the correct place on the new one oh, I just need to reinstall the throttle stop.

I'm working a 12-hour shift today and won't be home until after 8 tonight, so I don't think I'm going to get a chance to put this thing on and try it out.

One of the thing I noticed, the OD of the new carb where it attaches to the intake pipe from the air cleaner is just slightly smaller than the old carb. There's just a tiny bit of play, perhaps enough to let a little dust slip past. I used a size 028 O-ring to try to seal that Gap. I'm hoping that when everything's bolted together there'll be enough pressure to cause that O-ring to seal. If not, I guess I'll have to get a slightly larger one.

Edited by thedaddycat

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