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Changing tires


KSever

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Boy those 6"-4.50 tires are real fun to change. Only achieved 1 cut though, but got the tire on. So much fun I'll have to try another! I do have to say though I had real good luck with Cedar Rapids Tire, I ordered tires on Monday night about 1am and received them this wednesday afternoon
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I just put lug tires with tubes front(4.80/4.00-8) and rear(23X8.50-12)and filled them with washer fluid(1.25 and 5.5 gal.) I didn't have a harder time than I expected. The old tires on the front rims I used were rotted through the sidewall so it didn't matter how I broke the bead, but if that were a tire I had wanted to save, I doubt it would have made it. I was wondering if anyone has experience with one of those tire changing machines for smaller tires. I know I've seen them somewhere, about $50 I think, but wondered how well they work. Anyone have a scouting report on it?
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The last tires I took off this tractor about 6 months ago were on since the tractor was new in '76. I had to cut the tires off the rims.(yes I didn't like the tires I just installed so I installed lugs this time and they look great). The rims were rusted together with the bead on the front wheels, looked as though they had fluid in these at one time or just water from sitting outside for a long time. I didn't have this much trouble with tires on my 717 that had original tires from '68.
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looks like we all have rear bumpers in common however I use a 1" X 1" piece of oak cut to the length of the distance from the ground to my back bumper. I cut a 45 on one end and place it on the tire where it meets the bead and use a 2" X 4" about 6' long placed up under the rear bumper and used as a lever to force the 1 X 1 down onto the bead to break it. It works for me however I haven't tried it on a smaller tire yet.
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From experience, I want to tell any of you guys out there who replace tires. Please put a good heavy coat of paint on the portion of the wheels that will be inside the tires, especially in the area where the bead seats. Every time you put air in a tire you also put in moisture. Humidity in the air condenses under pressure into water droplets. If you don't protect this part of the wheel you will be shocked when you pull them apart next time. So it is best if you make the part of the wheel inside the tire look as good as the part that you see when finished. Rod H.
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Since the subject has come up again, do a search on mounting tires and you shoulld find my 500 word dissertation on the tricks I've learned for dealing with these little ^@#!!** tires. The best method for breaking down the beads is to use a bumper jack (I use a high lift) put tire on ground and use weight of truck to squish that little bugger. And I definetly agree that you should paint the inside of the rim.
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Interesting that you should mention the jack. I use a small floor jack, but put it under the hitch of my Suburban. Works with any kind of tire. With the little ones, quickest way is to cut them off with a 4-inch grinder. Rod H.
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About a year ago someone on this site recommended the mini tire changer sold by Northern for $39.95. It is worth its weight in gold for changing small tires up to 12" rims. Saves knuckes, shins, and cursing those little !X&$% tires.
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That's going to be my next tool. I've had enough of the cursing thing tonight. The 6" tires are on and man am I glad I don't have 4" tires or I might be riding on the rims with black electrical tape wrapped around them.
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Must be something with suburban owners, I found that the lifting snout on the high lift jack fits right into the receiver on my Burb. I'll lay tire on ground, set up jack against edge of rim, start jacking untill there's room to get the jack foot under the edge of the rim, them push the top of the jack towards the truck to get the foot tight against the rim and in a few clicks of the jack the bead is down. Be shure to remove valve core or the bead will never drop.
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You might also put a water separator in the air line which will help everything using air..Remember to drain it and your air tank once in a while..Woody
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I always check the catalogs for tire prices. Northern Tool, Harbor Freight, Surplus Center, etc. I also hit the traveling truckload tool sales. Many times they have tires and wheels at cheap prices. Although I get many from the local dump, where non-tractor people stupidly throw them away. This is where I get many of my parts, and many of my ideas for modifications to my machines. Haul my garbage to the dump, and haul a load of parts back. My wife gets upset when I bring back more than I took. By the way, this is where I got my Sears (Roper) tractor. Mowed my yard with it same day. Nothing like "free". Rod H.
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I cut a pair of 8" tires off today, with a 3/32" cutting disc on my 4" Makita. What with bringing stuff outside, getting a prybar under the bead to lift it enough to cut the bead wire w/o hitting the wheels, I think the whole thing took 20 min. Not bad, but I can't imagine how one would do it while trying to "save" the tires. Oh, yeah, this was after I first broke the beads from the partially rusted rims using my vice and a 1" x 1". That was 5-10 min. well spent! I spent @ $25.00 a piece (I think, haven't got the bill yet) for Carlisles, in the 4.80 - 4.00 - 8.00 size. This seemed a little high, but I am 25 miles from NYC. What kind of prices do the suppliers you guys mentioned above have, and for what brands? Thanks, Peter Peter
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