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Rear left on the 7112

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I am putting a rear lift on the 7112. I got the rear bracket from club member Bird78Mojo and other parts from SmilinSam. The bracket was a tad long for my tractor and I trimmed about 1/4" from the right end in order to

get it to fit. I had the step collar all the way in tight and just could not get it in without the trim job.

Here are four clevis brackets that I have. The first is threaded 3/8"-16 to match the turnbuckle but the pin is too small and if I drill this clevis out for the right size pin, it will be too thin and weak to handle the job.

The second clevis is threaded 1/2-13 NC and I have threaded rod in that size but the pin on this one is also too small. It does have enough meat to be drilled out if needed.

The third clevis has a much deeper throat depth but it is threaded 1/2-20 NF and I do not have rod threaded in that thread but I do have a tap and die. If necessary, I would overthread the 1/2-13 rod with the 1/2-20 die to make what I needed. I've done this sort of thing before...

The last clevis is a pipe hanger, again threaded for 1/2-13 but this pin is way too big for the rear hitch. I could sleeve it if I had to in order to fit a smaller (correct size) pin. So how do we adapt a 1/2-13 to a 3/16-16?


Here's my solution. Chuck the 1/2-13 rod up in the drill and set it to counter-rotate the bench grinder. Here the coarse stone is on the left so forward rotation on the drill and come at the grinder from the left side. Once the diameter is close to right, reverse rotation on the drill, switch to the fine stone on the right side and come at it from the right side, and carefully take off a bit at a time until you can get the die to start threading onto the ground down shaft.


I dug out some stainless jam nuts for both threads. Now the clevis is one end of the turnbuckle and I have a way to compensate for cable stretch.


I can attach the cable directly to the turnbuckle if desired.  
Can anyone see any flaws with this solution? I will need to crimp one end of the cable and then set the length as needed for the other end.

Edited by thedaddycat
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12 hours ago, thedaddycat said:

Can anyone see any flaws with this solution? I will need to crimp one end of the cable and then set the length as needed for the other end.

The only thing that I could see that might be a problem is with the length and bulkiness of the turnbuckle . It might hang up on parts of the transmission sticking up when lifting or lowering the rear attachment.

Here is one way I have done the setup before.




This particular clevis is not adjustable, however I have taken a threaded clevis like you have pictured above and  procured a bolt with the correct fine threads, cut the head off, drilled it out through the center, slid the cable through...then used just one crimp leaving a litlte of the cable sticking through like above- then frayed it out a bit and filled the frayed part with acid core solder. Just my poor way of insuring that the cable wont pull through the crimp when a load is applied. It was working while I had that tractor it was on. Dont know if it kept working after I sold it or not.


Here is the other end of  this cable...similar to what you have done above,


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I guess we're going to play find the weak link... Tack weld fixed the eye of the turnbuckle Karma then the crimp pulled out on the front end where it attaches to the rock shaft.

I ordered the new rear cable today. I'm still going to try to fix this, but I'm wondering why my moldboard plow put so much strain on the lift cable.


I used two cable clamps to fix the eye on the front end. They hit on the tinwork underneath so I can only lower down three notches from full up right now.


I wonder if the plow digging down into the ground is causing the stress. I worked the adjuster loose and set it to about fully out which angles the tip upwards a bit. I also added the coulter from the spring tine harrow.



If you raise your dozer blade and rest it on a spare tire or something you can set your collars on the lift rod so it stays high up. Presto! !! Instant front counterweight.


Edited by thedaddycat

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