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Addicted2Breathing

Hills are now my enemy

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Addicted2Breathing

So I have recently replaced the original carb on my ACB10 or Simplicity Landlord 2110, its a mutt so AC Landlord B2110? with an ebay special that actually worked quite well.

Anyways it starts right up and runs like a champion! until I hit a incline and the motor dies which leaves me in the middle of the yard cranking over the engine for 3-5 minutes all the while it backfiring like crazy. (Its now a external combustion engine)

Question is, is the carb bowl completely draining or flooding when at an incline and which jet adjustment would fix this issue?

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rbstuartjr

I would check the float level in the carb bowl, make sure it’s not sitting to low. Does the engine have a fuel pump, might not be pumping enough fuel when carb opens up. Check for fuel obstruction in fuel line/ filter. Just some suggestions off the top of my head.

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SmilinSam

Hard to tell with chineese replacement carbs.  I have bought a number of these now with about every third one being junk and wont work right. Of those, one would run at idle only but not at speed. Another would run at speed, but not at idle.  Another one was missing parts. This last one had  real problems. Either throat was out of round or the butterfly was out of round as the butterfly  would bind up in the throat when the throttle shaft turns..

 You could contact your carb  seller and see what they say.

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AC710

Just thinking out loud here... Why did you replace the carb in the first place? Perhaps the carb wasn't the only problem and you need to check for electrical issues under load - spark plug?

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dynodave

speed control or load control?

The speed control pulls on the speed signal spring which is countered and satisfied  by the engines governor signal at some carb opening positiion "X". Balance is established....

When you hit the hill, the engine LOAD increases and therefore governer RPM slows down decreasing signal to throttle spring. Throttle spring calls for "more carb opening " "Y".  throttle plate opens but fuel pick up fails (lean) and then engine dies.

Improper spring stiffness or linkage with "too quick" response could cause failed fuel pickup. Deciding if it is either a bad carb or governer response will be the challenge....

That is how I would approach it.!   It sounds like the engine starts and runs at light load only.

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Rfp55

Check couple of other items before more carb things;

1. Weak spark, fouled plug, heavy fuel input drowning out spark.

2. Late timing /minimal or fouled ign Point gap.

3. Head removal to check intake valve for closing  when hot. Thats likely the backfire symptom. Need about .004 -.006" stem clearance @TDC

Another cause i have seen, but if you do not have a very old heavily worn carb - it wouldn't apply

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Addicted2Breathing
On 5/28/2021 at 9:23 AM, AC710 said:

Just thinking out loud here... Why did you replace the carb in the first place? Perhaps the carb wasn't the only problem and you need to check for electrical issues under load - spark plug?

Soooo you know the high flow needle valve? the little hollowed out bolt that the needle valve screws into? Found out the hard way that its made out of aluminum that will easily snap off when attempting to loosen the bolt after sitting for almost 15 years.

Snapped bolt thingy.JPG

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Addicted2Breathing

So far I am leaning most towards the float or needle being stuck after using the tractor some more this last weekend. Reason being is the engine only dies when the tractor is on an incline, doesn't matter the load the tractor is under it just does not like going up or down hills. After which it needs to sit a moment before you can restart it and that only works if you push the tractor to a flat spot. Which makes me think the float is stuck and isn't allowing enough fuel into the bowl to keep the engine running when the tractor is going up or down a hill.

So question is there a "easy" way to get the float to move freely? Like tapping the housing with a rubber mallet? Or just take the carb apart and give it a good cleaning?

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AC710
5 hours ago, Addicted2Breathing said:

So question is there a "easy" way to get the float to move freely?

Answer: "NO": Hitting it with any kind of hammer will only make it mad. If the float is the problem, most likely it is out of adjustment. There are two things to check with the float, and the only way to do them is to take the bowl off the carb. To take the bowl off, you must remove the high speed jet and its nozzle. Be careful taking the nozzle out. I use a 1/4" flat blade driver bit in a manual handle that fits snugly into the bore and won't mess up the threads or the soft brass nozzle.

1. Check that the pressed-in needle valve seat is bottomed out. 2. Turn the carb body upside down (you will have to remove the carb from the engine) to check the float level. The float should be parallel to the body edge. Bend the tang to adjust it. of course while it's apart, look around for flotsam and jetsam - like flashing from the casting - that could affect the performance.

Also, as suggested above, it might be better to return it and try another.

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