New to me 4041

[Metalguy]

Hello, I am new here, and just picked up a 1973 Powermax 4041. It has a loader, and most everything works. It is missing the rear PTO shaft, and I hope to fix that some time, but for now I need to get into it, and see what all is working, not working, and in need of repair. The loader functions, but the bucket bleeds down, so I suspect o rings in the control, the engine smokes, but runs well, and I see wire slices everywhere, so lots of work due on that. I have some pics, and will try to post them here. I have already learned quite a bit from just reading here before acquiring this tractor. I am a Case guy, and look forward to seeing how it stacks up compared to the 646 I have. - - - - - Metalguy 

[PhanDad]

Welcome to the club.  

Hopefully the PowerMax will compare favorably to your case.  

There are several members that know your "new" tractor very well and I'm sure will be able to help answer your questions.  

 

[Metalguy]

I have wanted one since I saw my first one. I watched the video series on isavetractors.com, with his 4040, and it looks like a fantastic tractor. I can't wait to put mine to work! -----Metalguy

[720nut]

O-rings in valve and cylinders are quite easy to replace, any good hydraulic shop should be able to help you acquire them. At one time I had a complete set for the Danco cylinders. Really nice tractors , I've had several but you'll find ya need 3 hands to operate, steering ,hydro and loader all at once.

[midnightpumpkin]

22 hours ago, Metalguy said:

The loader functions, but the bucket bleeds down, so I suspect o rings in the control,

I would replace the o-rings in the cylinders as a first step. 

John U

[Metalguy]

Do they sell kits for the cylinders? Or do most people just take them apart, then order parts? Also, what hydraulic fluid for the loader? It is an Ark loader. I noticed today, one of the cylinders for the loader is leaking, so I'll want to go through everything at one time, just to get it done. But I think the lack of any power with the loader may have something to do with contaminated fluid, as what was dripping out looked cloudy. While I'm at it, what filter, and fluid is recommended for the tractor hydraulics? Sorry, total newbie on these, and I don't wanna screw it up! ------Metalguy

[720nut]

9 hours ago, Metalguy said:

Do they sell kits for the cylinders? Or do most people just take them apart, then order parts? Also, what hydraulic fluid for the loader? It is an Ark loader. I noticed today, one of the cylinders for the loader is leaking, so I'll want to go through everything at one time, just to get it done. But I think the lack of any power with the loader may have something to do with contaminated fluid, as what was dripping out looked cloudy. While I'm at it, what filter, and fluid is recommended for the tractor hydraulics? Sorry, total newbie on these, and I don't wanna screw it up! ------Metalguy

Would assume ATF for fluid , though I use standard hydraulic fluid in mine , like John says start with cylinders first

[Metalguy]

I got into the first bucket cylinder, and it looks like they have never been apart. Pretty ugly. The fluid has water in it, and is milky, and the O-rings are way beyond like expectancy. Not really a shocker. I'll be cleaning galore, and installing all new seals in cylinders, and spool valves, then a complete fluid change. Should make all the difference in the world.

I also cut out the entire bottom of the bucket, and will replace it with fresh, new, flat steel. I am reusing the cutting edge off the old bucket bottom though. ------Metalguy

[Metalguy]

Some pics of the bucket, and prior "repairs".  I cut the entire bottom off of the bucket, and will replace it with new metal. I cut off the cutting edge, and will reuse that. 

[tadams]

I would put a 3 or 4" higher piece across the top of the bucket to keep over flow from falling on the hood

[720nut]

15 hours ago, tadams said:

I would put a 3 or 4" higher piece across the top of the bucket to keep over flow from falling on the hood

Tom if you do like I did on my Legacy, I removed that piece in order to attach 3 chain hooks so I could actually lift items. That lip makes it extremely difficult to do much more than just move dirt, a little dirt on the hood never hurt anyone.  Just my $.02

[Metalguy]

The bucket looks very flimsy to lift items by hooks. I would think a doubler would need to be welded in place first. 

 

[Metalguy]

I'm hoping to have this loader finished up hydraulically this week, then on to electrical. A P.O. wired the front PTO to always be "on" as soon as you start the tractor. And the light switch is completely missing, so I will be going through the entire wiring. I bought new PTO switches for it, and a new ignition switch as well, as I have had other old tractors where the switch is a never ending supply of issues, so I generally just replace them right off. There are also quite a few splices I want to be rid of as well.

[720nut]

15 hours ago, Metalguy said:

The bucket looks very flimsy to lift items by hooks. I would think a doubler would need to be welded in place first. 

 

I added a small section of channel to help reinforce the top side. I occasionally get a little dirt over the bucket when I get greedy and have to have a full bucket 

 

Edited November 8, 2021 by 720nut

[Bill725]

I took a piece of rectangular tubing to weld the hooks to and used the existing bucket shield mounting holes and bolted it.

Edited November 8, 2021 by Bill725

[Metalguy]

720nut, that bucket looks much more robust than mine! I may reinforce it, but don't want to lose capacity via added weight. I did modify a qwick-change skidsteer adapter to fit my Case, but don't want to add the weight to this F.E.L. I need to finish my hydraulic work first, and work it a bit then maybe I'll change my mind. It would be nice to be able to swap attachments between the two... I did notice this loader is pretty sloppy, and I'll be going through the mechanicals on it before I get too serious about working it hard. It appears to have had a hard life outside, with little maintenance. 

[Metalguy]

I got some work done to the bucket, and it's almost there... And because I'm replacing the wiring, I started by taking the console apart, and will strip, and paint it before putting that back together, once wiring will go back in. Two of the four cylinders are done, two more, and the spool valve to go. 

[720nut]

while ya got her apart ya might as well repaint the dash and get new decal, ya know one piece at a time, wiring just gives me a headache.

 

[Metalguy]

720nut, I plan on stripping, painting, and new decals for the tower and dash. No sense in having it this far apart, just to assemble ugly, and have to do it again later. 

[Metalguy]

I dug into one of the rear loader cylinders (After unsticking the pins that were frozen with rust holding it to the loader) and discovered the o-ring on the ram was completely missing! I'm wondering how this thing even functioned now. Both bucket cylinders were in bad shape, but the loader arms worked better, and are in worse condition. Should work like new when I'm done. I'm really looking forward to seeing this thing perform when all this is through.

[Metalguy]

A few more pics... Got the decals off the console, and a few pics of the last cylinder to be rebuilt. 

[Metalguy]

I have finished the loader cylinders, and I am on to the wiring. 

[720nut]

Wow dash looks good, if rest ends up looking like that it'll be a show piece, bet it'd have a much bigger smile with a new filter LOL

[Metalguy]

Yah, I need to start it, and warm it up properly so I can change the oil and filter! I had to clean, paint, and decal the dash, as I didn't want to do it later on. I'm hoping to put it together today, and have it running again after doing some more wiring, and making sure all is ok with that. I have two new PTO switches to wire, a voltmeter to replace the ammeter, new choke cable, cleaned out all the corrosion in the oil, and hot lights, repainted the bulbs red , and ops checked that they work, and I am replacing all splices, and any corroded, damaged wires. I hate having electrical problems down the road.  

[Metalguy]

I got it warmed up, changed the oil, adjusted the valves (cold), removed/decarboned the heads, new gaskets, torqued properly, and now....no smoke! I think the oil that was in it was diluted, as it seemed pretty thin, and ALL of the valves were very tight. Very happy the smoke is gone. Now on to drive belts....