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Kohler external coil on B-212


jackcobb

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My coil has died on my B-212. I want to put the external Kohler coil on it. I’ve watched the video and some of the threads on here about doing it. The video isn’t specific where to get the battery power from for the + side of the coil. The articles I’ve read says you need a different ignition switch. My 212 has a switched ( comes on with key ) ignition switch male post that currently my headlights are wired to .  Couldn’t I just get the power from that post? And I assume I can still get power safely for the lights of that post as well? Thanks 

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Hi Jack, 

The problem with using a lot of the magneto ignition switches is that when you turn the key to the start position, the other accesory power tabs lose power while you are cranking the engine. At least thats the problem I have had with them in the past trying to rope them into a battery ignition setup. You can crank the engine, but it wont fire till you roll the key back to the run position. By the time it takes to turn the key back, the engine has quit turning fast enough to  start once the coil actually gets power.

What was perplexing for me at the time I was experimenting with the magneto keyswitches was that it would show continuity between all the tabs in start position. It wasnt till I actually tested voltage with the switch wired into the system that I found major voltage drops in the powered tabs other than the start tab when the key was in the start position actually cranking the engine. I might not be remembering this right, but I think thats what it was.....and why I quit trying to use magneto igintion switches for battery ignition setups.

You need a keyswitch made for Kohler battery ignition setups. They have a independent "I" (ignition) tab that powers the coil. That tab stays completely energized when the key is turned to the start position. The other tabs on that keyswitch would be "B" (battery)  "R" (rectifier/regulator) "A" (accesory), and "S" (start).

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I converted a 3415H to battery ignition, and I just connected to the terminal that the light switch was connected to, and it works great!  Maybe the older FDT switch are different than the RBT tractors.

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7 hours ago, MikeES said:

I converted a 3415H to battery ignition, and I just connected to the terminal that the light switch was connected to, and it works great!  Maybe the older FDT switch are different than the RBT tractors.

RBT 5 prong switches are what I had been trying to use.  Wouldnt hurt to try to use them I guess, but I never had any luck with them.

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If you don't have headlights, a toggle switch in that hole works as well. Wire it to battery, or ignition switch side of ammeter.

Label  as  "ignition arm" And the the key is just start

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We also have to remember that a switch for a magneto, grounds the ignition out in the off position. In the run position, it leaves the ignition ungrounded or no connection as the magneto is self powered. If you are changing to a battery powered ignition, you need a switch that provides 12 VDC  power the the coil.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 12/10/2021 at 11:40 PM, SmilinSam said:

RBT 5 prong switches are what I had been trying to use.  Wouldnt hurt to try to use them I guess, but I never had any luck with them.

 

 

On 12/10/2021 at 6:46 AM, SmilinSam said:

The problem with using a lot of the magneto ignition switches is that when you turn the key to the start position, the other accesory power tabs lose power while you are cranking the engine. At least thats the problem I have had with them in the past trying to rope them into a battery ignition setup. You can crank the engine, but it wont fire till you roll the key back to the run position. By the time it takes to turn the key back, the engine has quit turning fast enough to  start once the coil actually gets power.

What was perplexing for me at the time I was experimenting with the magneto keyswitches was that it would show continuity between all the tabs in start position. It wasnt till I actually tested voltage with the switch wired into the system that I found major voltage drops in the powered tabs other than the start tab when the key was in the start position actually cranking the engine. I might not be remembering this right, but I think thats what it was.....and why I quit trying to use magneto igintion switches for battery ignition setups.

You need a keyswitch made for Kohler battery ignition setups. They have a independent "I" (ignition) tab that powers the coil. That tab stays completely energized when the key is turned to the start position. The other tabs on that keyswitch would be "B" (battery)  "R" (rectifier/regulator) "A" (accesory), and "S" (start).

Sam I have run into this where the ignition switch that had power to the coil in the run position but no power to the coil in the start position...drove me nuts until I figured it out.

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  • 1 month later...

Had the last of my parts show up last week for my external coil project and I finished wireing up the B-212 today with the external auto style coil. New ignition switch and all.  She fired up. Visually a a nice hot spark between the plug’s electrodes. My question. I have the new points set at 20. Didn’t mess at all with the plug. It ran a little sluggish, but it was cold and has last falls gas. With the hotter coil, what would you guys think the points and plug gap should be. I recall someone commented on this thread about a new point gap. But I can’t find the post???? Thanks 

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I know with my Kohler battery ignition, the points starting point was 20 thousands. Then after I got her running I would have to fine tune with a timing light to get it to run better. On a new system 20 thousands is fine, but on an old engine with worn points parts,  I had to make slight adjustments.

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13 hours ago, jackcobb said:

My question. I have the new points set at 20.

I measured the points cam lobe and the difference between the diameter and across the flat that closes the points is 0.020". If the points are set more than 0.020" they won't close to trigger.

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So far I’ve left points at 20. Set spark plug gap at 32. Then richen’ed the carb about a 3/4 turn. Running pretty good on the garage floor. 

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