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Soverign won't lift 42 blower. What could cause this


hurleyii

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So my seal above the filter was leaking. I tried replacing it with one from my restoration project by just switching the whole part out. I am positive I installed part in proper direction and other then very slow to lift and with snow on it no lift at all. So if the metal piece above filter is reversed 180 degrees what's the issues I know it's been discussed before. 

Also I do have the rear located neutral valve is leaking out the top.  

Any help would be greatly appreciated.  I can't get in driveway with company van with snow. 

Thanks guys and I'm going to pick up new oil filter now to start with that.

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Ok update guys . All leaks have been repaired.  I replaced rear neutral valve, and found a oring at my hardware store that I was able to make work. Also replaced trans filter with a car quest crossover to the napa gold. Carquest filters are made by wix as well. I thought it gave me more lift but no luck. Tractor will not lift blower or plow. So on to checking pressures now. Hoping spring or shim needs changed.  Big Thanks to Thomas Howard last night for mentioning the possibility of a broken spring when we talked along  with Phandad for sharing the links above.  

I'll be honest guys I've felt very defeated this year with my hobby as my daily have been constantly broke it seems since I've started a restore. I haven't been able to do anything towards the restore since summer went full swing. I've barely been able to keep a unit running it seems. 

So thank you all for your support and responses. 

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If everything worked properly but just leaked before you swapped the other charge pump in from your project tractor, whats the chances that the charge pump you swapped in is bad?

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If it's just not lifting the blower, but drives just fine, are you sure the 9/16 nut that holds the lever to the valve is tight?  Is the valve actually being actuated? 

Edited by Brettw
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On 1/3/2022 at 7:01 PM, Brettw said:

If it's just not lifting the blower, but drives just fine, are you sure the 9/16 nut that holds the lever to the valve is tight?  Is the valve actually being actuated? 

Brett awesome advice. I just got the time to check the hydro lever and you hit the nail on the head. Will see later if it’s fixes the issue . The valve does still move but not much.

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  • 2 weeks later...

I'm far from an expert, but I have completely disassembled and reassembled a Sundstrand with all new seals to stop it from decorating my garage floor.  Given the assumption that it worked better before, even though it leaked, my guess would be that you lost the charge pump pin that mechanically connects to shaft to the charge pump gear.  It is a small hardened pin about an inch long and 1/16" in diameter that is free to fall out when the gear is slid off the shaft.  If you think you may have dropped it, I can try to find the maintenance manual for the 15 series pumps, as the specs for a replacement may be in there.

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1 hour ago, Josh S. said:

I'm far from an expert, but I have completely disassembled and reassembled a Sundstrand with all new seals to stop it from decorating my garage floor.  Given the assumption that it worked better before, even though it leaked, my guess would be that you lost the charge pump pin that mechanically connects to shaft to the charge pump gear.  It is a small hardened pin about an inch long and 1/16" in diameter that is free to fall out when the gear is slid off the shaft.  If you think you may have dropped it, I can try to find the maintenance manual for the 15 series pumps, as the specs for a replacement may be in there.

That is a good possibility, but I am of the understanding the tractor still drives?  If the tractor does not drive in addition to not lifting the blower, then I would look to what Josh stated.  I assumed the tractor moved.

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Charge pump gear could fit sufficiently snug enough on shaft to prime the hydro drive at which time the drive piston rotor would probably retain the prime and drive decent. But when the circuit is loaded harder trying to lift a implement the gear would spin on the shaft if the pin is missing.

Does it drive if you are concurrently trying to lift the implement?

(If it doesn't, don't try that very much, loosing the charge while spinning is bad for the drive side rotor. Just like being towed can destroy the driven side.)

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Did the tractor lift ok before you swapped out parts? If so, backtrack and put the old leaking part back on to test that it still lifts ok. If you don’t know how it lifted before, put old part on and try. If it didn’t lift with old part, then you need to look at other possibilities like the lift control valve or relief valve. 

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Ok I don't understand it completely but it's fixed. 

What I did. 

I pulled both pressure springs to check to see if they where broken. Negative

Cranked tractor over to check for fluid coming out charge springs holes. Nothing not a drop.

Cleaned charge springs and valves and reassembled.  Retested  nothing completely dead on her feet. No movement nothing.  Pulled thingmagig that was leaking oil at seal and confirmed proper installation. CHECK 

 observed thingmagig had oil but made no mess on removal.  Inspected for damedge do to not enough lube. Negative 

Grabbed leaky thingmagig cleaned up with brake cleaner allowed to dry and dumped atf into it making mess.  Installed and tested hydro lift. ✔  tested motion control ✔.  Now we're getting somewhere. 

Removed leaky thingmagig.  Cleaned up non leaky thingmagig.  Fought with oring for a min that was a little thick and a little to small. ....  f*ck it... grab oring from leaking thingmagig clean install pour atf into non leaking thingmagig. Install and test. Hydro lift ✔  motion control ✔.  

We have a working hydro. So my theory is new oring was to thick causing tolerance to be apart enough that non leaky thingmagig  could not create enough pressure to operate hydrolic lift.  

Theory on loss of motion after spring removal is I herd a sucking noise indicating upper hydro was draining down and being atf and with improper clearances thingmagig could not pull a strong enough suction to create motion control or hydro lift.  

Now time to pull plow off plow and hook up blower and see where we are for lift on blower assembly. 

FYI I added transfluid to thingmagig before assembly based on my past experience with automotive repair. 

Thank you all very much for your help especially those of you pushing me to go back to the thing thingmagig.  I would of never touched it knowing it came out of a strong rear end.  

P.S.  word of advice for us hydro guys .. test your hydraulics to lift your implement before you install a snow cab.  If I would have done that this headache would of been so less stressful.  

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