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Barrier between positive battery terminal and gas tank strap


OrangeMetalGuy

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OrangeMetalGuy

The 22NF battery in my 716H wouldn't turn over the engine this morning (even though I keep it on a maintainer), so I had to grab the battery from my mowing tractor and put in the 716H to plow snow.  That one fired it right up; I'll get a replacement battery this weekend.

Anyhow, the one I put in there temporarily isn't a 22NF; it's a little smaller and doesn't have the tab at the bottom.  So it can move around quite a bit on the tray.  I jammed a leather welding glove in between the positive terminal and the rear-most gas tank strap since they are so close (who thought that would be a good idea??) but I want something more fail-safe.  I could strap some plexiglass in there maybe. 

Curious what others have done.  I don't want to go BANG.

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I have switched from the Commercial 22NF, with foot clamps, non-sealed, 2-year warranty, $66 battery to the Automotive 51R, without foot clamps, sealed, 7-year warranty, $127 battery on both my FDTs and RBTs. Just tighten the clamp on the bottom to keep it from moving.

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I have mostly 51R batteries in my tractors as @Bill725 does.  Then do fit snuggly as he stated:

IMG_0836.thumb.JPG.a5e931401e4050c343575373112e48d0.JPG

 

For the + battery terminal, I like this clip on post connector that came with my 7016H:

IMG_0834.thumb.JPG.42a811f81bfc0cba1e20fe4d2f99f166.JPG

I wish I could find others. 

 

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Years ago , after the positive battery terminal leaned over, contacted the metal fuel tank strap and set fire to the rubber gas tank strap loop.....OO..   I started slipping Either a plastic or rubber sheet, thin piece of plywood, or any other non-conductive material between the battery and the tank. Even have cut sections out of old tire tubes to tuck in over the battery and down along the sides of it. 

For the slop with using a smaller battery profile, I just trim pieces from a 2x4 to snugly  fit the gaps at the bottom where the battery sits.

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The 51R battery is the most utilized replacement to the 22NF.  I still use the Commercial 22NF, with foot clamps, non-sealed, 2-year warranty, $66 battery in all my BGB tractors.  I normally get 7 years out of these batteries & they are all bought from Farm & Fleet.  The reason?  I can only speculate.  When I purchase a new battery, I trickle charge it completely before ever placing a load on it.  I was told many years ago by an old timer that NO battery sold is fully charged no matter what the salesman tells you.  If you take a battery that has ab 80% charge to it & install it & put it under a starting load, it will never fully charge above that point again.  Maybe this is true & maybe this is completed B.S.  I'm sure there will be many "experts" that will argue.  But it's a rule I have followed for 20 years.  And like I said, I get 7 years out of a 2 year battery.  & by the way, the 22NF batteries I buy from Farm & Fleet only have a 1 year warranty on them.  And I have never seen a battery terminal "lean over" unless the battery was severely warped & at that point, I would not even consider using it.

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Like others here, I can’t get 22NF batteries locally. So I have been using 51R batteries and tightens the lower clamp nice and snug. Never had one lean over and touch the tank strap. Just replaced one of mine that was 6 years old. For the price of batteries now here, I hope I get 6 to 7 years out of my new one.

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This is something I will not compromise.   A loose battery right next to a gas tank.  You never know when you may drop the tractor in a hole or bounce the tractor enough for the battery + terminal to hit something metal (like the underside of the dash) with gas also sloshing around... I only use 22NF always CLAMPED in place.

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On 1/7/2022 at 9:14 PM, ShaunE said:

And I have never seen a battery terminal "lean over" unless the battery was severely warped & at that point, I would not even consider using it.

The battery  I had was one of those smaller lawn & garden batteries you buy at the farm stores and wal-mart. lots of loose area in the battery box to move around  ( and the whole battery lean over )if its not tied in...which it wasnt. If the terminal ends on the cables are not on right they can stick out past the sides of the battery.  My event was the result of a combination of a few different things...which I dont let happen anymore

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2 hours ago, SmilinSam said:

The battery  I had was one of those smaller lawn & garden batteries you buy at the farm stores and wal-mart. lots of loose area in the battery box to move around 

I have only ever had one tractor that someone had previously changed to the smaller cables to accommodate those smaller batteries.  As much as I like the price tags of those, I switched that machine back to the top post terminal cables.  You're pretty lucky the tractor didn't burn up. 

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18 minutes ago, ShaunE said:

I have only ever had one tractor that someone had previously changed to the smaller cables to accommodate those smaller batteries.  As much as I like the price tags of those, I switched that machine back to the top post terminal cables.  You're pretty lucky the tractor didn't burn up. 

Yep, lucky. I've since went to the big batteries in all my bigger tracctors that use them oem. Over the years I found that the cheaper price is not worth it. They dont have the power needed to run the starter generator tractors really, and they just dont last. Of the Last 5 small ones I bought(420 amp excides) 4 were dead in 2 years. I think the 5th is still out there in one of the newer lawn tractors.

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On 1/7/2022 at 9:14 PM, ShaunE said:

The 51R battery is the most utilized replacement to the 22NF.  I still use the Commercial 22NF, with foot clamps, non-sealed, 2-year warranty, $66 battery in all my BGB tractors.  I normally get 7 years out of these batteries & they are all bought from Farm & Fleet.  The reason?  I can only speculate.  When I purchase a new battery, I trickle charge it completely before ever placing a load on it.  I was told many years ago by an old timer that NO battery sold is fully charged no matter what the salesman tells you.  If you take a battery that has ab 80% charge to it & install it & put it under a starting load, it will never fully charge above that point again.  Maybe this is true & maybe this is completed B.S.  I'm sure there will be many "experts" that will argue.  But it's a rule I have followed for 20 years.  And like I said, I get 7 years out of a 2 year battery.  & by the way, the 22NF batteries I buy from Farm & Fleet only have a 1 year warranty on them.  And I have never seen a battery terminal "lean over" unless the battery was severely warped & at that point, I would not even consider using it.

I have been charging all of mine prior to install. Still only getting 1-2 years out of a basic L&G batt but it doesn’t help that all of the machines are very rarely used. 

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OrangeMetalGuy

So I installed an Interstate 22NF battery today.  I forgot how much taller these are than the battery I had been using; the 22NF sits high enough that it well clears the metal gas tank straps so no barrier needed.

It's charging via the battery trickle charger, per another member's recommendation, before I use it to start the tractor for the first time.

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I made a battery box out of a Sterilite plastic storage box last time I was in my Landlord, and found one taller than my battery. I use a Ranger U-1, 380 CCA battery in all my machines that require a battery. It is a 4 year battery, but if kept on a trickle or maintainer, or charged fully occasionally during periods of non use, it lasts around 6 years, for $55 at the last purchase. The guy at the store did not believe it lasted that long, but he was the one punching the numbers out both times. The plastic box protects the side of the battery from the tank, but I have the positive post protected with a plastic cover, as well.

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What's crazy is the Kirkland battery in my 9020 dates from 2012 and is still going strong. It sat in the tractor outside in the weather for I'm certain a few years with no use. It has the bolt-on terminals and doesn't have any leakage issues. Pretty amazing.

Any battery I put in my 716H seems to have issues with corrosion. I need to check what voltage the alternator is putting out to make sure it's not boiling the batteries.

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That’s funny, I have a Kirkland battery from 2014, that’s in my 914 and it’s still going strong.  It’s kept in an unheated barn and I’ve never had to charge it.

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Just bought a 51R from BJ’s wholesale. It’s an interstate brand and I think was $99 bucks. Costco has interstate as well for same price. In the past I’ve used large plastic tie wraps or small fabric lashing straps (same material as a ratchet strap) in the past on batteries. That will prevent it from coming out in a roll over. I believe a member here had a story of a bad rollover situation a few years ago

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OrangeMetalGuy

jlasater you may be on to something re: overcharging.  But, I'd use a thin coat of vaseline over the connectors anyway.  I've been doing that my whole life (well, at least after Dad taught me to do it) and never have corrosion.

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6 hours ago, OrangeMetalGuy said:

But, I'd use a thin coat of vaseline over the connectors anyway.  I've been doing that my whole life (well, at least after Dad taught me to do it) and never have corrosion.

Doesn't everyone put a light coat of grease on battery terminals? Then, for good measure, I soak the exposed cable, if any, with Gibbs penetrant, just spray til it does not take in any more. That keeps the battery cables from corroding

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