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Hard starting


landlord2110

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Landlord 2110 with electronic ignition with new spark plug has to crank 2-3 minutes if not longer before it will start. I store in a enclosed garage & use only in the winter time for snowblowing. Spark plug is set at .030".  Gas line has a see thru filter so i know theres gas getting to carb. Any ideas what to look for?

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The Briggs in both my Homelite T-12 and 7016H are stored in similar conditions.  I've found that heating the carb and inlet piping with a heat lamp for 10 minutes or so makes the ol' Briggs start so much easier in the winter.  That and depressing the clutch so the engine spins as fast as possible.  

 

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In my experience, excessive cranking ahead of reliable repeatable starting is usually a fuel system related issue.

 

Did you check the spark? I pull the plugs  and hook the wire to them and ground the base of the plug and crank. If its a nice blue spark I consider the ignition system good.

 

 

Sometimes it could have a crisp blue spark but there could be a problem with the mag or the timing (ie partially sheared key) Same thing could be if using battery ignition on existing points. However usually with these circumstances engine wont really run right even if it does start.

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 1/31/2022 at 6:56 PM, RAC said:

Hold the throttle shaft fully closed at the carb with one hand when cranking one time and see what happens. (Humor me)

Wouldn't that be the same as starting it at the idle setting?

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40 minutes ago, Hick said:

Wouldn't that be the same as starting it at the idle setting?

No because the governor springs pull the throttle plate wide open.  It's like being "double choked" - choke plate and throttle plate both closed.  

And I do believe it helps.  Started the 7016H with 16HP Briggs yesterday after a minimum amount of preheat.  Started quickly.  

 

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I had the same problem with my 7016. 

I read the owners manual and it said in cold weather to just crack the throttle open with full choke.

I tried what they said and it starts right up. &:)

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All the Briggs that I have had will start almost instantly if I hold the throttle plate completely closed.  They will start even below zero with no heat, otherwise they will crank for some time before starting.

This may be a compression thing as all my tractor engines have lots of hours on them.

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  • 3 weeks later...

Has more to do with poor vacuum signal to idle circuit. Problem gets worse with age because even a little air leakage due to throttle shaft wear will reduce the pull on the idle circuit. 

Choking helps but fuel atomization from the main jet at cranking speed isn't very good. That's why holding the plate closed and forcing it to use the idle circuit helps.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Or, do a little cheating if you feel like it. A while back I set my float level, had to remove the air cleaner and hold my hand over the carb to choke to start. I knew better, but set level "like the book says". I removed it a few weeks ago, tore it back apart,and set the float just a little high, not enough to cause gas to run out while operating, but barely noticeable with the carb in my hand. Now, close the choke, bump the throttle to just above idle, hit the switch, and we are off to the races.

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On 3/3/2022 at 6:28 AM, RAC said:

Has more to do with poor vacuum signal to idle circuit. Problem gets worse with age because even a little air leakage due to throttle shaft wear will reduce the pull on the idle circuit. 

If throttle shaft is wore, replace the shaft and bushings. Bad compression/leakdown results will also cause hard starts.

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On 3/15/2022 at 7:48 AM, Bill725 said:

If throttle shaft is wore, replace the shaft and bushings. Bad compression/leakdown results will also cause hard starts.

The throttle shaft IS worn, as is the carb body. I cheated there, too. I installed felt washers at both ends of the throttle plate shaft. A few drops of oil now and then keeps the seal on the shaft.

I tried to add a link, but for some reason the site refuses to let me? Yes, I am signed in.

Anyway, see my post titled "Carb Bushing(not) Project". My engine went from a no way it was going to idle, to idling so slow it was scary, with the addition of the felt washers. The shaft is still worn, the carb body still worn, but the felt seals that slop. If your carb is like most, the Briggs steel bushing was added to the carb many years before you got it. If you need a bushing, a spent .22 shell casing makes a perfect bushing with a few modifications such as reaming the casing, removing the end and shortening the casing to the length you need. I have used them on other Briggs carbs with great results. Set the casing in silicone to seal the outside inside the worn steel bushing

 

Edited by MrSteele
Attempting to add link, site will not link to article on site
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4 hours ago, MrSteele said:

I tried to add a link, but for some reason the site refuses to let me? Yes, I am signed in.

To post a link, highlight the address of post you want to reference, "copy" it, and then "paste" it  on a separate line where you want the link posted.  In a few seconds, you'll get a grey box with an unhappy face icon with this black text  bar under it: 

  Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

Click on the underlined "Display as a link instead" and the link will stay:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/66291-carb-bushingnot-project/ 

 

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On 3/17/2022 at 2:51 PM, PhanDad said:

To post a link, highlight the address of post you want to reference, "copy" it, and then "paste" it  on a separate line where you want the link posted.  In a few seconds, you'll get a grey box with an unhappy face icon with this black text  bar under it: 

  Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

Click on the underlined "Display as a link instead" and the link will stay:

Thanks, will try that next time

 

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