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Simplicity 9020 rear axle seal and o-ring for brake job


sim9020

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Good Morning

My Simplicity 9020 lost brakes after transmission fluid fill.  Browsing past threads it appears linings may be soaked in oil because of bad rear axle seals.  Going thru thru the parts manual looks like I need to replace a seal and o-ring to plug the leak

2170839SM 2 O-RING

2168006SM 2 SEAL, Brake

Both are NLA. 

Are there any replacement aftermarket parts members were able to use?

Thank you

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If you can’t have much downtime with the tractor, I’d contact Sandy Lake Implements. They should be able to supply you with equivalents before you tear into the project.

I'm going to tackle this project myself soon. My brakes are non-existent.

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On 8/4/2022 at 11:04 PM, jlasater said:

If you can’t have much downtime with the tractor, I’d contact Sandy Lake Implements. They should be able to supply you with equivalents before you tear into the project.

I'm going to tackle this project myself soon. My brakes are non-existent.

Thanks Jlasates.  Downtime is not an issue, I also will be doing it by myself.

Please share any tips and part sources as you move along the project, particularly any bearings or springs should be changed.

So far I found

 * 2168006SM is SKF 10075 Shaft Seal, Zoro and others have it

 * Briggs still makes 2170839SM O-Ring, but it is back ordered.  I ordered from Partswarehouse in TX

Drop housing seal

* 2175601SM is still available for $45 or so

Read somewhere 2175601SM had markings JC-193-2502 and its dimensions matches Timkin 48115 or NAPA 19220 seals, far cheaper $15 range

I am going to paint when everything is off.  Ordered AC Orange from Home Depot.  6 pack was $32 in the morning, jumped to $43 by afternoon.  Hope it matches.

Wheel rims, I am going to use Rustolium Almond and Canvas White for the Hood.

 

 

 

 

Edited by sim9020
Removed wrong brake lining references
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Not sure about 2170839SM O-Ring status, some sites it is on order and NLA on others. 

Looking at the specs it is 3.739 with ID 0.70 which matches DASH 044 spec

I ordered 41UL60  from Grainger as backup. 

 

Drop Housing sealing NAPA 19220 is CR/SKF 19220.  SKF had it on eBay for $9 with free shipping

Hope these are the correct matching parts, will know once I take it apart.

 

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2170839SM O-Ring is back ordered until September 2

Picked up DASH 044 O-Rings from Grainger, they look big

Got CR 19220 seals from SKF.  Supposed to be matching drop housing seals

I guess time to start the work

 

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Edited by sim9020
Removed wrong brake lining references, this has ceramic disc brakes
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Finally started tear down.

When manual says "remove rear and mid attachments" it may not be just few pins and clips.

Removed wheel, drop housing, trans extension

Removed brake assembly, obviously soaked in oil.

I can see the oil seal, but not sure I pull out the seal or remove two bolts

 

 

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Thanks @jlasater

Made little bit more progress,  Lip seal was definitely shot, but the shaft cover was tightly held by still intact o-ring.  When I started pulling the seal with NAPA seal remover, shaft came off loose.  What a relief.

This machine is unusually clean and intact for its age (75-76).  Bearing and race are in good shape.  I will do a closer inspection again.

There is some grime build up around the oval caps with shims.  Once I finish the brake job I will observer and decide whether to drop the transmission.  Hood, fenders, foot rest and wheel rims are getting ready for a paint job.  So I will have time but need to buy cherry picker.

Grainger DASH 044, FABORY 41UL60 is a perfect match and $4.80 for ten.  Didn't put the new seal yet, bearing race & seal installer will come tomorrow.  Also have to pickup VC-3 from Grainger.

 

 

 

 

 

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Bearing is wobbly, race is in good shape.

Need some expert advise here

Can I pull bearing right here or I have to remove the transmission? What kind of bearing puller works best?

One of the document says don't change race if it is not damaged.  What is the best practice?

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Sort of bad news.

Damaged axle bearing cage while trying to remove. 

Removed the top cover to investigate and see if gear assembly can be pulled out without dropping the whole transmission. 

Rear PTO shaft is in the way to remove gear assembly from inside.  Most documents conveniently skip this part of disassembly

Any tips would be great.  Thanks

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On 8/18/2022 at 9:03 AM, sim9020 said:

Bearing is wobbly, race is in good shape.

Need some expert advise here

Can I pull bearing right here or I have to remove the transmission? What kind of bearing puller works best?

One of the document says don't change race if it is not damaged.  What is the best practice?

I am pretty sure any cone shaped roller bearing is going to be wobbly if not set to specs between the races. I don`t know how it's done in this instance though. I have removed races with a cutting torch and with a dremmel/die grinder. A small amount of damage to the surface under the race is acceptable. You won`t notice it with a new race in place.

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4 hours ago, kwt said:

You may not want to hear this, but my guts tell me that you didn`t need to mess with that bearing.

Agreed, but after removing 100 parts and draining 6 qts fluid to reach brakes, this was next to it, and looking at the old lip seal, kind of thought without replacing the bearing seal will fail again, may not be soon, but loss of brakes and start all over again

Sanded, primed and painted extension and drop housing.  Hood, fenders and cluster panels getting sand blasted at a shop, two week turn around.  I will do rims, foot rest and other small parts meanwhile.

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Finally got the Rear PTO shaft out.  Shaft assembly with electric clutch, hub, spacer, o-ring (DASH 018), another seal(fortunately SKF 10075), snap ring, slide Rear PTO shaft forward, one of the studs from brake group was blocking, once I got the stud out, differential assembly came out

Put new bearings and races (Timken Set 45).   Old races were protruding 1.86 mm out, matched new one

One of the Rear PTO Yoke(175229) bushing(2177943SM) crumbled, looking for replacement.

....

Need help section of the post

1) Repair manual says to coat seals and o-ring with VC-3 and let them dry before installing. 

Is that a standard practice?

2) Should I just clean brake assembly and ceramic brake discs with brake cleaner and/or put it in oven 400 F

3) There is a thick absorbing foam pad(2176528) protecting brake assembly from external elements.  Is that something I can buy and cut to shape.

 

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  • 2 weeks later...

After cleaning brake assembly and ceramic discs with brake cleaner, they looked ok, very clean and oil free, but when I baked for 1 hr at 400F, there is still oil, will do another baking session today

Also can someone tell me what is the rubbery foam material protecting brake assembly and the trim stapled on to hydro oil cooler side panels.  Grainger person couldn't identify.

 

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On a sidebar confession, my over enthusiastic mind and sticky hands couldn't keep quiet.  Opened rear PTO clutch.  Mostly looks good, there are some metal shavings around the coil and 6208VAL is noisy. 

Any references on who can rewind the coil.  Asking for a friend.

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Started test fitting, done with brake assembly and extension, so far so good, no leaks,

Didn't install rear PTO o-ring and seal, didn't want to waste a seal if I have to go back in.

Contacted the person Shaun posted, he is in NH, works with a motorsports shop good with rewinding coils, already shipped the clutch, will know 3 weeks.

What is the safe way to clean old transmission gasket?  did by best,

Should I use any sealant along with gasket?

 

 

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3 hours ago, sim9020 said:

Contacted the person Shaun posted, he is in NH, works with a motorsports shop good with rewinding coils, already shipped the clutch, will know 3 weeks.

If it works out for you, please PM me the contact info.  I just re-potted one & have another I may have to have re-wound.

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Both drop housings are back on.  It was excruciating pain for a one man backyard operation

Simplicity couldn't have made any less painful with the stupid spring pushing back on you.

Used long bolts to hold it in place, wiggled it into place by hand tightening temporary long bolts, installed bottom bolts and replaced top temp bolts with bolt and nut

I used the 3/8 long bolts I had to cold set bicycle frame, 1/2 long bolt will problem save more time and energy

Still have to torque.  Didn't take final picture

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5 minutes ago, ShaunE said:

If it works out for you, please PM me the contact info.  I just re-potted one & have another I may have to have re-wound.

Will do

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Its on its own wheels.  Now putting back the dash and misc items.

Rear PTO yoke nylon spacers shipped are not the correct size even though it is a Briggs & Stratton (Simplicity) Genuine part.  It is slightly thinner and longer.  Cannot tighten nut all the way.   Should I return or jerry rig.  These were $16 each!!!

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Edited by sim9020
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