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Has anyone tried these flail blades?


Hick

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My DA 1920 had them on the deck when I got it, but the deck was junk so I scrapped it.
$245 for three blades for a 48" deck! But if they work as advertised . . . .

https://meg-mo.com/

Edited by Hick
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David Barkey

The problem I see is that as soon as you double the number of cutting surfaces you double the load on the belt . With out up grading that and having the extra hp to the deck, once any kind of load is on it the rpms will drop off . This would account for complaints of shaking and vibrations from these reported buy guys who have tried them . In theory should work if there is no rpm drop off . You need sustained rpm to keep to blades all out straight or an imbalance situation will cause vibrations . 

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8 hours ago, Hick said:

My DA 1920 had them on the deck when I got it, but the deck was junk so I scrapped it.
$245 for three blades for a 48" deck! But if they work as advertised . . . .

https://meg-mo.com/

I think @s_stephen has a set, but dont know if he has ever tried them out.

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I have to disagree with David's assertion about doubling the load on the drive system. Certainly the load is increased somewhat due to increase in rotating mass, but the the amount of grass (number of blades of grass) cut does not change. The increase would possibly be even less than switching to mulching blades.

I liked the Meg Mo idea the first time I saw it, quite a few years ago. I never bought them because high $, and also have only purchased new blades once in the 40 years I have been using my old tractor to cut my >half acre lawn! 

So I think these might work fine if you have a strong tractor that cuts well with regular blades. I have not done any tip speed calculation, and I rarely get a chance to operate other tractors. But I observe that newer lawn tractors (even the big box cheapies) seem to throw grass out the chute farther and faster than my old tractors. Gary, please let us know if you try them! Thanks - Tom

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1 hour ago, TomSchmit said:

I have not done any tip speed calculation,

See this post:

https://simpletractors.com/forums/topic/65775-blade-speed-zero-turn-vs-conventional/?tab=comments#comment-525523

I personally never mow at WOT, probably 3/4 throttle.  Something ingrained from my Dad I guess.  (However snowblowing is usually at WOT.)  

 

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i do have a set that was on a sunstar 60 inch deck but i never used them. there sitting under the bench collecting dust and i dont have a deck to put them on now to try them out.

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23 hours ago, s_stephen said:

i do have a set that was on a sunstar 60 inch deck but i never used them. there sitting under the bench collecting dust and i dont have a deck to put them on now to try them out.

Had I known how expensive they were, I would have saved them off my DA / Sunstar deck! But the blades were pretty worn out.

6422f1ede9902_Deck-GrassFlow.jpg.4528a6625f44d7ab419a1ca6ce3ca7df.jpg

Edited by Hick
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On 3/26/2023 at 8:53 AM, TomSchmit said:

I have to disagree with David's assertion about doubling the load on the drive system. Certainly the load is increased somewhat due to increase in rotating mass, but the the amount of grass (number of blades of grass) cut does not change. The increase would possibly be even less than switching to mulching blades.

Gary, please let us know if you try them! Thanks - Tom

I switched from OEM to Gator blades years ago. They are much heavier. But let's dig back into HS physics.

I once read that it takes 80 HP to get a full-size Lincoln (when they weighed 2 1/2 tons) up to 65 MPH under mild acceleration.
But it only takes 8 HP to maintain 65 MPH (assuming smooth, level roads with no wind).
Same thing applies here.
It will take more power to get them spinning due to increased mass.
But the increased mass will keep them spinning easier.
There is a load on a mower blade; cutting and throwing grass, but as Tom said, that may not change all that much, as the effort to cut and throw are the same. 

I mow 2 acres every week. The Oregon Gators have been doing me good, and I have two new sets that will take me a few years to wear out.  I just thought if some of you are using them and think they are the cats' meow, I might try them. 

Thanks for your input!

EDIT: I just noticed the replacement costs when you DO need new knives, numbers rounded up.
Blades: $10 each x 12 (for a three blade deck) $120
Hardware: $10 set of four x 3 $30
Shipping: $15
Total: $165!

Think I'll stay with my Gators!!!

 

Edited by Hick
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From a tinkerer's standpoint, you can throw your blade balancers away, but will need to invest in a scale, a very accurate scale. All flails will need to weigh exactly the same after sharpening, or the resulting imbalance will shake you off the seat!  That disc should also be balanced occasionally, due to wear on the edges by grass. Your favorite blade balancing toy will likely not be good enough, likely looking for a dynamic balancer similar to a tire balancer. Due to those problems, I would stay away from what looks to be too good to be true!

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21 hours ago, MrSteele said:

  That disc should also be balanced occasionally, due to wear on the edges by grass.

if working properly there shuld be no ware on the edge of the disc from grass as it would be cut before reaching the disc. constant rotation and grass clipings shuld evenly ware on the disc as it does on disc mowers for hay. in haymower applications you dont sharppen the blades you replace them to maintain proper balance. however stumps, posts, or other objects impacting them could for sure put them out of balance as the discs are not vary thick.

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