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New to me 16/44 Broadmoor


Tarheel

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 As I mentioned in another post, I picked up a Broadmoor this week. This machine looks good for its age but I was told before I picked it up that the hydro was going out on it. When I picked it up, the PO boosted it and drove it onto my trailer. He said it pulled ok for half an hour then had to be left to cool before going on.

 Once I had it home, I drove it a bit and heard it "growl" and seemed to stall. Seems the splines (on the hydro input shaft) are badly worn. So much so that the pulley wobbles on the shaft. It also seems that splined pulley is NLA. ( so I saw in a Youtube video. Haven't looked it up as yet)

 I don't know much about these hydro units. Back in my day, The hydros were self contained and bolted to a rear. Eatons and sunstrands. Well, the Sunstrands used the rear as a sump but anyway.

  This rider will likely be parked for a while. I have enough irons in the fire ATM. But I would welcome any input on these hydro units K57a I believe it is. Thanks

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Some info here:  New(er) is not always better - Talking Tractors - Simple trACtors

 

 If this is one of the newer (early 2000's hood style) Broadmoors then this sort of problem is common on these. Seen quite a few with toasted transmissions(K57)  Usually the engines are good and they make good parts tractors. Too costly to replace/repair the transmissions as you end up with way more money into the tractor than its worth.

The loose drive pulleys and wiped out splines is also quite common on these. Had one myself that came from Al Edens estate auction. Their solution was to weld the pully on from the top. Bought some time, but eventually the transmission gave out and wouldnt move well anymore.

This is from the link above :

Quote

Talked to a Tuff Torque rep once on oils used in these.  Was an eye opening talk. Tuff torque recommends only their special oil  to use in their transmissions. However, they sell their transmissions to tractor maufacturers with lesser oils to keep costs down at the requests of the manufactuirers. Those transmissions are sold with lesser oils with special additives added to them to bring the oil up to levels closer to their own oil. Tractor manufacturers dont tell the consumers any of this.

You coud try tacking the pulley back on and swapping some better oil into it. The Tuff Tech oil is about $50 for a 3 litre bottle. A bit too expensive for a experiment that might very well fail. I think @gwiseman knows what weight of oil it is so you could find some cheaper stuff to get by with. Still,  I think  that trying to fix this tranny would probably end up making the Regent project look good in comparison both in time and money spent. ..... But thats just my opinion.....

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Ronald Hribar

I am afraid that I am one of those guys that uses the welder to fix problems like this

i had to do something similar to my 2 stage snow blower several years ago

Drove it into shop

welded part that shouldn’t be welded

went out and finished blowing snow

fixed part properly during the summer 

I definitely would weld the Sprocket 

On 3/21/2022 at 7:54 PM, U.S. Vintage Iron said:

 

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On 4/15/2023 at 7:46 AM, SmilinSam said:

Some info here:  New(er) is not always better - Talking Tractors - Simple trACtors

 

 If this is one of the newer (early 2000's hood style) Broadmoors then this sort of problem is common on these. Seen quite a few with toasted transmissions(K57)  Usually the engines are good and they make good parts tractors. Too costly to replace/repair the transmissions as you end up with way more money into the tractor than its worth.

The loose drive pulleys and wiped out splines is also quite common on these. Had one myself that came from Al Edens estate auction. Their solution was to weld the pully on from the top. Bought some time, but eventually the transmission gave out and wouldnt move well anymore.

This is from the link above :

You coud try tacking the pulley back on and swapping some better oil into it. The Tuff Tech oil is about $50 for a 3 litre bottle. A bit too expensive for a experiment that might very well fail. I think @gwiseman knows what weight of oil it is so you could find some cheaper stuff to get by with. Still,  I think  that trying to fix this tranny would probably end up making the Regent project look good in comparison both in time and money spent. ..... But thats just my opinion.....

C040A64F-E1BF-4FA2-AE22-3708E38F998B.thumb.jpeg.3285901403195f06c71a4a2a58b5db2b.jpeg

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3 minutes ago, gwiseman said:

C040A64F-E1BF-4FA2-AE22-3708E38F998B.thumb.jpeg.3285901403195f06c71a4a2a58b5db2b.jpeg

I thought  I read in here recently in a post where you stated the actual weight of the Tuff Torq Branded Oil?

 

Maybe I was mistaken. 

Edited by SmilinSam
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The oil can be changed in any of these units all the way down to the K46, though it may require removal of the transmission on some makes/models. 

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 In good condition, these Broadmoors are priced around $1200 in my area. I have seen one priced on FB at $800.

 As it stands, I paid $200 for this one, around $50 in fuel and 5 hours in a round trip to get it. I priced these K57s online starting at around $800 to around $1000. (depending on the sub model which I have yet to check out. )

 Worse case being I have to spend a grand on a new hydro. Figuring my time and use of the truck, Lets say I'd have $1400 in this one. This Broadmoor looks good, but not good enough to make a profit at that price. But if I knew I could get 10 years out of it ? $140 bucks a year seems a cheap enough price to me. Trouble is, I have no idea it would make 10 years.

 Meaning that I have nothing to gauge it by. The Sunstrands and other BGB Simplicity's can and have lasted that and more, but the one Broadmoor we purchased new (coffin hood) Was one with a bad electric PTO clutch. Simplicity supplied a new engine and once I installed it, the hydro went out in less than a month. The machine was only 3 or 4 years old and even way back then the replacement hydro was something like $900. The wheels were as good as welded on the axles and caused me to delay in an attempt to repair before spending the money on a new hydro. A twister dropped a huge oak with twin trunks around four feet in diameter each on a large number of the machines I had at the time. Few survived and the Broadmoor wasn't one of those. I did save the new engine from it as well as the mowing deck . Still in storage after near 20 years.

 Anyway, I said all that to say this. I have a pretty large number of running board tractors. Most need repairs, replacement engines or NLA parts like the rubber drive coupling for the drive shaft. Could be that my money would be better spent on repairing some of these rather than the Broadmoor. Any thoughts ? Thanks

 

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4 hours ago, Tarheel said:

 

  Trouble is, I have no idea it would make 10 years.

 Meaning that I have nothing to gauge it by.

A Brand new transmission should make it 10 years anyhow. Most of the ones in the Broadmoors made it at least that long

 As to the rest of the tractor, I have a ConQuest we bought new in 2003. All the parts on it including the engine are pretty much the same as whats on the Broadmoors of the same era with the exception of the front wheels, lift lever, and the transmission. This conquest has been in service now 20 years as of this month. No major repairs save for new deck bearing about 10 years ago. Its ready for another set of new bearings now, Tractor has around 1300 hours or so on it. Wife mows in town with it and it isnt real well cared for. Its still chugging away on the original engine and transmission and pto clutch..           

The Broadmoor I did have had over 1000 hours on it before the transmission gave out. The rest of the tractor was split apart and its engine and parts were used to rebuild one of the Prestiges I run. So technically the rest of that Broadmoor is still in service in another tractor.

Got another conquest here I bought at auction last year. Put a new engine oil seal in and its soldiering on. Same 2003 era type machine..

 

Cant advise on whether a new transmission is worth it. Around here the 2003-  2009  or so Broadmoors can be regularly had for around $600. When you get into the newer ones wearing the new style mesh seats then they start bringing  4 digit figures.

Edited by SmilinSam
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 As always, Thanks Sam. I have noticed prices much lower up north. If I could stand the drive, I'd think seriously about trying to pick something up up there. But a couple of hundred miles round trip is about all I can manage.

 I have found another Broadmoor that is about the limit of what I'll drive. Has starter issues but no mention of hydro problems. I may see what I can work out on it. But I'll be keeping my eyes open for a later model.

Thanks to all who offered help.

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