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wwbragg

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Look what followed me home the other day.  No. Really.  The seller lives near by and so he followed me with his trailer.  It was listed as a 2110 but it has a variable speed pulley system.  TractorData.com makes no reference to a variable option on the 2110.  The motor is a 300421 or at least that is what is stamped on the cooling shroud.  It went up for sale about 100 miles away for $700.  Then it was gone and relisted nearby for $1000.  Then the price came back down to $700.  I kept looking at it until the price dropped again - - - - too good to pass up.

Its a little hard getting into.  I am 5'7" with a 30" inseam so I need a stool to saddle up.  Maybe I'll put a step or running board on it.

It doesn't want to go into gear with the motor running.  The clutch is working ok but when the clutch is engaged, it just grinds the gears.  It came with no drive belt.  Maybe that was why.

 

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Edited by wwbragg
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59 minutes ago, wwbragg said:

ear with the motor running.  The clutch is working ok but when the clutch is engaged, it just grinds the gears.  It came with no drive belt.  Maybe that was why.

Belt stops not set properly or even missing?

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Now that's interesting. It was probably a 3012V judging by the push button starter switch and steering wheel. What kind of hubs are in the front wheels? 

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42 minutes ago, Chris727 said:

probably a 3012V

Yeah, I don't think it is a 2110 as stated in the listing.  It came with an owner's manual with 2110 highlighted so I think the previous owner assumed that is what it was.  But, as I said, tractordata.com does not show a CVT assembly for the 2110.  but I like your assumptions.  

What you mean, "front hubs"?  Baby moons? 

343922073_9230280077042399_6660304896645751946_n.jpg

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3 minutes ago, wwbragg said:

Yeah, I don't think it is a 2110 as stated in the listing.  It came with an owner's manual with 2110 highlighted so I think the previous owner assumed that is what it was.  But, as I said, tractordata.com does not show a CVT assembly for the 2110.  but I like your assumptions.  

What you mean, "front hubs"?  Baby moons? 

343922073_9230280077042399_6660304896645751946_n.jpg

I was referring to how they had mounted what appear to be 10" or 12" rims on the front instead of the standard 6" rim. I thought it may require a modification of the spindle or whatever hub was in the rim to achieve this. 

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51 minutes ago, Chris727 said:

10" or 12" rims

Front wheels are 12".  Tires are 6-12.  Those baby moons on the front are held on with magnets, JB Welded to the inside.  (Don't we love previous owners?)  Here are some pics of the front hubs/bearing races.  Looks like he used the stock spindle but I don't recognize the bearing races.

 

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Edited by wwbragg
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Looks like they welded the wheel center from a smaller, possibly original wheel, into this larger wheel. 

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  • 1 month later...

I've been messing with this beast off-and-on ever since the last post.  I adjusted the clutch rod (see Clutch picture) almost all the way back but with the clutch fully depressed, it still grinds when I try to put it into gear.  I also adjusted the CVT turnbuckle (see the CVT picture) both ways.  With the wheels off the ground, the wheels turn when in gear but with the wheels on the ground, the wheels don't move.  What am I doing wrong?

clutch.jpg

CVT.jpg

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Wendell, you've probably done this but make sure you adjust exactly as referenced in Simplicity Repair Manual 3012 vari drive adjustment - Talking Tractors - Simple trACtors  I thought I was pretty good at adjusting variables;  I think I've owned 4 now, but a 3012 I had just wouldn't cooperate. I finally tuned it in to where it wouldn't grind but it would still fall out of alignment quickly and required me tinkering with it all the time. I moved that one on. 

 

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Its been a while since I had a vari drive, but when I last had one I adjusted the idler pulley belt stop to just clear the belt when tension is applied to the belt, and to grab the belt when the clutch is engaged to keep the belt from spinning with the drive pulley.

 The stop I am referring to is not up by the drive pully where one would normally look for them, but right on the idler as pictured in Genes link above.

Edited by SmilinSam
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16 hours ago, gwiseman said:

probably done this

No, this is just the detail I need,  Thanks.

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12 hours ago, SmilinSam said:

idler as pictured in Genes link above.

I have the idler guard but am missing the driver pulley guard.

 

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On 7/1/2023 at 8:59 AM, wwbragg said:

I have the idler guard but am missing the driver pulley guard.

 

Wendell, I'll take a look to see what I have. Do you need the long flat guard on top or the curved guard in front? 

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Thanks, Gene.  I have the long flat guard on top.  The one I need is the front guard that surrounds the driver pulley on the bevel gear box.  I noticed on my 3112V there is also a rear guard on the transmission pulley but it doesn't show up on the parts list.  

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I need to torque the pulley nut on the rear variable pulley.  It calls for 50 ft lbs.  How can I hold it stationary while tightening the nut?  My first thought was to position a screwdriver on one the three slider pins behind the fixed-half pulley.  But will that bend the pin?

 

Later the next day- - - - I used a strap wrench to hold the pulley still.  I interlaced the strap with one of the slider pins.  It held firm all the way to 50 ft lbs but then I couldn't get the strap out.  Had to cut it out.  The front pulley was also under torqued but this time I used a screwdriver between the shaft and one of the slider pins.  This time the screw driver was stuck between the pulley halves.  Put a vice-grip on the screwdriver shaft and beat it out with a hammer.  The halves slide together nicely so the pin was not harmed.

 

Edited by wwbragg
NEXT DAY
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On 7/12/2023 at 8:36 PM, wwbragg said:

I need to torque the pulley nut on the rear variable pulley.  It calls for 50 ft lbs.  How can I hold it stationary while tightening the nut?  My first thought was to position a screwdriver on one the three slider pins behind the fixed-half pulley.  But will that bend the pin?

Later the next day- - - - I used a strap wrench to hold the pulley still.  I interlaced the strap with one of the slider pins.  It held firm all the way to 50 ft lbs but then I couldn't get the strap out.  Had to cut it out.  The front pulley was also under torqued but this time I used a screwdriver between the shaft and one of the slider pins.  This time the screw driver was stuck between the pulley halves.  Put a vice-grip on the screwdriver shaft and beat it out with a hammer.  The halves slide together nicely so the pin was not harmed.

I have not had that pulley off to repair - only to dismantle on a parts tractor. Glad you got it. I've really enjoyed the variables even though they need a bit of love to keep them operating correctly. I suspect it's my connection to variable speed drives on combines we owned/operated on the farm. Those too were cranky and required maintenance. 

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  • 1 month later...

I have been trying and trying to get the variable drive working but when the wheels are on the ground, it lurches a little but no go.  I started to think something might be wrong inside the trans.  As I was turning the right wheel, I thought I felt a little snap crackle pop.  So I pulled the differential apart.   First thing I noticed was that the retainer ring (part no. 2154291SM  Ext Retaining Ring, #112 1.1 (item Z in the parts list)) is missing.  But then it looks like the parts list has things out of order because the three axel washers (V)  are shown BEHIND the differential gear (X).  What is going on?  Or is gear X the gear on the outer hub?  Then I noticed that all four washers were positioned together.  Maybe that was preventing the outer hub gear from making full contact with the pinion gears.  What is the proper assembly order???

 

AXEL A.PNG

AXEL B.jpg

AXEL C.jpg

Edited by wwbragg
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Those differentials are critical for having the washers in the correct place.  Also note that the washer to the outer side of the retaining ring has a counterbore for the ring.  The parts list for a B110 shows one washer about .10 thick where this one shows three and the three on the outer side of the gear X.  Some of the later ones had a hub on the gear and not the three washers.  I am working on a B110 that someone assembled with the washers out of place and the gears were out of place and destroyed themselves.  

B110 differential early jpeg.jpg

B110 differential late jpeg.jpg

Edited by Tom45
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My axel has a key on top and bottom that extend beyond the inner gear.  The three washers have slots to fit over the keys but the other washer (No 22 in your picture) is flat with no counter bore.  Maybe a previous owner threw it together with miscellaneous parts.  (We love PO's, don't we?)  I also noticed that some of the pinion gear washers were on top and some were on the bottom.  

Edited by wwbragg
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On mine, washer 25 is about the thickness of the differential housing so that the gear sits just inside the housing.  Yes, the axle keyways are as long as the gear plus the three washers.  It made more sense when they changed to the later style with a hub on the gear and no washers so that the keyway is better used.  My washer 22 has a counterbore so that the washer sits over the retaining ring.  

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NOTE: Below are pics of a RBT differential, not a FDT differential.

And another series of pics from the teardown of a 3310H differential:

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Edited by PhanDad
RBT Differential Note Added
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