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A new 9020 addition to the family


jlasater

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So I've accumulated enough accessories for my first 9020 that it's frankly a bit of a pain to swap back and forth, plus the Danco loader has been awaiting repairs. I found a 9020 in reasonable shape and made a 600 mile round-trip run today to get it. I'm well pleased but naturally it has some things that will need to be fixed (some cosmetic, some mechanical) but it's a runner as-is. It'll make a great addition to the Simplicity/AC family I already have (one existing 9020 and a 716H).

id_simp_9020.jpg

It came with a front blade as well as a "custom" back blade.

id_simp_9020_backblade.jpg

I'm a little puzzled by the ID tag and this white label on the frame. What do you guys make of it? Is it actually a 9020? Or did someone change the frame out on it? From what TractorData says, the 9020's didn't start until 1975 unless they are wrong. If there is a tag with a unique serial number, where would I find it? My other 9020 doesn't have any tags at all.

id_simp_9020_idtag.jpg

The spring trip mechanism for the front blade is missing and someone welded a couple of bars on to keep it from rotating. I plan to put it back to stock, but I'm curious about the mount. I see the pivot bracket. Was the part that bolts to the frame common between the front blade and snow blower attachment? Or did someone cobble this together out of parts?

 

id_simp_9020_frontblade_mount.jpg

 

There are some other random things "wrong" with it, like a trashed seat, strange very tall steering wheel, various sheetmetal parts missing, mower deck lift cable assemblies missing (they were there, you can see the marks), super sloppy steering (either steering box or u-joint), and a number of other things, all fixable over time.

It does have the original axle, not the later HD one, so this tractor will either get an HD axle upgrade if I can find one, or it'll be the mowing tractor and my other one will get the loader and other earth-engagement tools.

Curious to hear what you guys have to say.

Edited by jlasater
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11 hours ago, jlasater said:

Is it actually a 9020?

According to the Simplicity Cross Reference info, MFG# 1690072 is a 1976 P-Max:  

P-Max.jpg.74a2f223de168432a452e4670244824d.jpg

 

From the 2005 Simplicity Engine Info Manual that MFG# tractor is listed in both the 1975 and 1976 tables:

image.png.0f54f5e70cad2a4dabf331b6afe3e97c.png

image.png.a37c58b53aaadd6f95fcfb6559fe07b5.png

The 1974 table also lists a 9020 but it's a different MFG#:

image.png.ac8507f11a3ea2f617a602276601c74e.png

It's a shame the Serial # part of the ID Tag is missing.  I'd bet you have an early MGG #1690072 serial # tractor.  (Maybe a paper/pencil rubbing will reveal the serial #.

PS - Interesting that the 1973 table lists the same MGF#s but labels the tractor a 4041:

image.png.48fe9e09f839e3a553173e980517eeca.png

 

Edited by PhanDad
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@PhanDad is correct. The “System 9020” was the first 9020 model replacing the 4041. Standard weight front axle, late model fenders & I.D. # corroborates everything. No idea why the R&D sticker is on it dated 1973. PM @mnoonan42 for a copy of his distinguishing characteristics sheet or see if it is in the 720 F.B. Files section. There was a lot of nailing down specific data that went into that. You can also check the Onan tag to date code the engine.

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Hello, Is that a Datsun or a Nissan pickup   in the background ? 

I had a 1972 Datsun,  manual steering, manual brakes , Heavy clutch pedal . one tough truck.

I also had a 1976 nissan a little more refined and definitely easier to drive. 

They both may have been Datsun's, that was a long time ago

 

Thanks Ken in Mi

Edited by maxwood
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Had a chance to give the tractor a trial run today. A friend has a (dead) lawn with mounts in it. The rear scraper doesn't cut in very well in turf but the front blade did pretty good. Either the transmission/input shaft cover or the shift lever is incorrect. It's stuck in low range and the lever can't move...it's obviously been cut and welded for some reason. The rear PTO spins constantly but I can hear a change in sound when I turn the rear PTO switch on, so there seems to be drag somewhere. Likewise, the steering is very sloppy, and the left spindle is the worst.

Yeah, that's a Datsun 521 pickup. Runs great but it needs an entire brake job. I want to leave it completely stock, but looking at changing the front wheels out to disk brakes for safety.

All in all, the tractor did a decent job and I'm very pleased with the purchase.

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Had a bit of time to start tinkering on the 9020. When I ran it yesterday, I noticed a lot of vibration. Pulling the drive shaft cover showed the PTO driveshaft had a lot of runout. So, with the aid of a dial indicator and a few minutes of time, I was able to loosen the bolts in the coupler and gently tap the driveshaft end around until I got it as good as I could. Now there is no visible runout when running. Smoother too.

The second issue is that I had been unable to get the transmission in to high range. I pulled the seat off along with the transmission cover, and with no small amount of force was able to get it to shift into all three ranges. My other 9020 isn't nearly this stiff. I don't see anything obviously wrong. At some point the lever broke off of the shift rod and someone welded it back on very badly and not at all lined up. Now it hits the PTO clutch bolts when the engine is running when you shift into the middle range. Rather than fight with trying to cut/weld it back up, I'll just replace with a donor part.

Only the left side of the tranny cooler is supported, and without any rubber support. Luckly, the washer hasn't cut into the tube yet. I need to pick up the right-side support/baffle, and the center baffle that goes between the left/right sides.

Most of what I've run into isn't catastrophic (yet), but there are lots of things to fix.

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I use the blade for earth moving, so that rubber setup probably won't work. I can't imagine it would cut into the soil.

Edited by jlasater
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  • 4 weeks later...

I bought a bunch of used parts from Mike Brown and they arrived in good condition. It would appear that either there were two variants of the CCKB in the 9020 or someone swapped in a version that wasn't standard. The starter is different and the flywheel/fan shroud he sent me doesn't fit. The two tabs at the bottom that bolt to the lower face of the engine are not in line as they should be, one is offset a lot. The one tab is also off to one side a bit, directly over one of the bolts holding the starter on.

Before I start modifying things (possibly even drilling and tapping the end of the starter mount bolt, do any of you guys have any other suggestion or know about something I'm missing?

You can see the mounting tabs are different on the new one, the top cover.

onan-cckb_fanshroud.jpg

Edited by jlasater
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Early CCKB engines used a cast iron oil sump which used a cast plate to mount the starter. Later models used an aluminum sump the starter bolted directly to. On the early variant with the cast plate, there was an addition piece of sheet metal shrouding to cover the openings.

In your picture, the mounting holes look to be in the same spot to me. 

Edited by ShaunE
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This should clarify a little bit. The red lines approximate where the mounting tabs are. The bottom one that came with the engine line up, the top one has about a 1" difference. The bottom cover has a big chunk cut out of it. I think someone tried to gain access to the starter without pulling the engine. So...I may just drill out the spot welds on the mounting tab plate on that one and plug-weld it to the "new" upper cover.

onan-cckb_fanshroud2.jpg

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3 hours ago, jlasater said:

The bottom cover has a big chunk cut out of it.

In the picture, the top one looks to be the one missing the piece. Making me wonder how in the heck it was ever attached with that tab.?.?

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The tab is there, it's just offset 1" or so as compared to the bottom one. I'm going to look at one of the starter mounting bolts. I may be able to weld a short section of bar stock to the end of it, tap it, and then essentially use that as a permanent spacer to fit the cover. No permanent mods that way. It's hotter than hades' here right now, so hopefully I'll get shop time this evening.

A big mini-split (or two) is looking REALLY good for the shop!

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I drilled out all the spot welds on the old cover and the mounting tab plate came off without too much effort. With a little careful fitting and some small plug welds, I should be back in business.

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Drilling out spot welds is a bit of a pain, but after some careful fitup and then plug-welding, the bracket is on and the shroud fits just as it should.

onan_shroud_fixed.jpg

A quick shot of flat black and it almost looks OEM.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Made quite a bit of progress last night. I purchased a bunch of used parts from Mike Brown and have been slowly putting the tractor back to OEM. The engine shroud went back on without issue after replacing the mounting tab "plate".

The tractor was missing much of the tranny cooler shrouding including the right-side mount, a working choke cable, hydro lever lock mechanism, and countless fasteners. I finally figured out why the transmission range shift lever was hard to use (and rubbed on the PTO drive shaft flange in certain positions). Someone had welded the broken lever back on the shift shaft with the lever pointing straight forward instead of off to the side. So, you only had about 2" of leverage to shift with. I replaced it with one of the early style levers with the knob on the end and now it shifts with two fingers. MUCH better.

To make bolting the engine back down easier, I did weld 1.5" lengths of small bar stock to the bolt heads so they wouldn't spin. Made installation much easier.

At the beginning of the evening:
PXL_20230803_030935492_1.jpg

 

The carb is missing one of the mounting bosses for the choke cable bracket.

When I wrapped things up for the night:
PXL_20230803_052454737_1.jpg

 

It's kind of funny to look at. It doesn't look like THAT much was done, but all of the fitting and finding missing hardware really took up some time.

The fiber disk for the PTO driveshaft has one pair of holes really egg-shaped so I'll be replacing it. For now, I used a dial indicator to get the shaft running true and made sure the bolts were pretty snug.

It also now has the correct factor steering wheel (with nice clean S logo cover) instead of the much taller wheel that someone put on it.

Edited by jlasater
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