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Will it work?


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Okay, so a muffler for my 50-year-old JD 140 lawn tractor is around $200. It is not leaking, but is is also not muffling at all.  Poked around in my spare parts and found the muffler off my Deutz-Allis 1920. It is a two-cylinder so the muffler has two inlets and one outlet. Thinking about putting it on the Deere "backwards" so it uses the outlet as the inlet, and has two outlets. That in itself should make it quieter. I would put it on the outlet of the existing muffler. Of course, the respective inlet / outlets would be cut down to fit.
The reason I took the original muffler off the DA was it went through the grill. I made a new grill and wanted a side-discharge like the Sunstar. So this muffler is okay. 


Another option is to make an adapter and use a chrome motorcycle muffler going up like a stack.

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Its not like it has a one way check valve..

 Could also just cut off one of the original outlets and  weld a cap plate on( been there done that  before).

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Although the muffler will flow "backwards", many mufflers use perforated pipes discharging into a larger chamber where the design allows bouncing sound waves to cancel each other out.  

So it might not "muffle" very much.  

If you do it, let us know how it works out.  


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Okay, so the question yesterday was could I use a Deutz-Allis 2-into-1 muffler reversed so it would be a 1 inlet, two outlet muffler on my John Deere? And the answer is YES!!
The DA pipe slipped over the JD pipe with a perfect fit! Didn’t want to use a clamp (I like things to be able to come apart easily if necessary) so I ran a building screw through the pipes to hold it. Then a bracket on the bottom.649edd7fcc62a_2023-06-29JD140Muffler2.jpg.f2478ade0c1a65bbac7388180939a044.jpgI was concerned about the reverse-flow. But as I put my hand over each outlet I am feeling a good blast of exhaust on each one. Dividing the flow probably has a big part in quieting it down. However, when it was on the D-A it was pretty quiet.649edd81c3cdd_2023-06-29JD140Muffler3.thumb.jpg.2edfec611cb823a21ddff496b14705c4.jpgMy main concern was that it clears the rod that releases the angle latch on the dozer. I had to cut the outlet off quite short.649edd838edfb_2023-06-29JD140Muffler4.thumb.jpg.c6d887fed3ddb11e055bf5db0dc92017.jpgThe rack to hold the suitcase weights was already built; it moves around a lot! Either stored on the rack that holds my mower decks for work, on the back of this one for traction, or now mounted it on the front to counter the tiller weight. The ears on the grill were from when I had the dozer on the 210 and that was the mount for the electric lift. I’m using the deck lift mechanism for the dozer for now, but am looking at putting a hydraulic cylinder on this.
The weights are made from sections of 2x3 square tubing with a bottom welded in, then filled or partially filled with melted lead. This configuration is 82# (less bracket).649edd85d58f4_2023-06-29JD140Muffler5.thumb.jpg.ba89bc08f5db22a6600ab3ae624b3ebd.jpgThe tiller has two extension kits on it for extra width. It is offset on the tractor. Not a problem on the right side.649edd87be75a_2023-06-29Tiller1.thumb.jpg.bee7a7366217c7f38ccc25b7422fc96c.jpgBut on the left side, the outside dual leaves tracks in the tilled soil. I’ll either have to work in “lands” or take that dual off. Or add another extension kit?649edd8a3af8e_2023-06-29Tiller2.thumb.jpg.069a887f91f7a0d6327f53f54e72d0cc.jpgThe trail camera caught me working, er, playing. I was thinking of selling the tiller if I wasn't impressed. But I'm liking this set-up, so will be keeping it.649edd8c2baa2_2023-06-29Tiller3.JPG.497692d0d851520c04dc9f884c2c77ba.JPG
Edited by Hick
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Continuing on with this tractor. I moved the dozer over to this from the 210 (sold). The mount for the dozer is clear on the back hitch. That will interfere with the tiller mount. Why have both on the tractor at the same time? Doing landscaping I'll use the tiller to loosen the soil and then the dozer to move it around. Since this is the only tractor I have now that can handle the tiller and dozer, both need to be on it. (I am toying with putting the tiller onto the Deutz-Allis 1920. That could be a winter project!!  The dozer will NOT work on the D-A: The dozer frame goes under the front axle, and due to the weird front axle on the D-A there is not enough clearance.)

I had to alter the frame of the dozer. It was L-shaped at the back to reach up to the hitch. This shows the original frame (Previous Version: this is now the 4th tractor it has been on, and each version required alterations.)  Since I used the other brackets that dropped down from the tractor frame, I cut the L off and had to drill holes in the dozer frame for the hinge pin.


 With the Y in the frame, I was unable to get it into my drill press. So all drilling had to be done on the bench & vises.649fbc195c40a_2023-06-30Dozer1.jpg.87cd23932df1baefff5b4014161de50b.jpg

Hope you can follow that convoluted sentence!

Got it installed! I used some brackets I had on the 200 series JDs for the three point I made for them (since moved to the D-A!).  Welding was easier than bolting in this case.

The hinge pin goes through both hinge brackets. I installed it with the wheels off the tractor. Fought the duals back on and then realized: There is not room for the pin to come out w/o taking the duals off!!!!! GREAT!
But, remember that the hinge brackets and pin were from another implement on a previous tractor. On it I would slide the pin to the left to clear the right hinge bracket, then cock the implement frame enough to clear that bracket then slide the pin to the right to get it out of the left bracket.

This diagram should help explain.:

And it worked on this application! (WHEW!)


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