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Couldn't find a Simplicity I could afford.


Tarheel

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 I have been looking for a Simplicity with both power steering and differential lock. Not many around my area and when one is for sale, they are simply out of my price range. Around a month back, I saw an ad on Marketplace for a John Deere GX255. It had both the PS and DL and the price was right So I bought it .

 Like many JD's with a bit of age, there was no hood. The former owner said there was a problem with the mowing deck but it ran like a top. A friend who is a JD tech helped me get the deck back on it and set it up, but the PTO wouldn't engage or if it did start, it would quit inside a few yards. Took it home and worked out the short. I have mowed my mother's place 3 times with it. Well, on the 3rd mowing I was almost finished and was mowing around where an old brush pile had been. The grass was tall and I didn't see a stick. It kicked it and it hit the wires for the PTO at the connector breaking one of them. Haven't addressed it yet but hope it didn't short inside the clutch.

 All said and done, I am quite impressed with this machine. The cut seems to be better quality than the older JD's I have. (I do have a pair of GT235s I picked up shortly before this 255. they use the same deck) The power steering is nice but the diff lock was the big thing for me. This mower hardly ever spins even without using the lock ! It rides pretty good and doesn't leave me feeling beat to heck. I think both the GX255 and the GT235 have found forever homes.

 I have 9 or 10 JD's and maybe 15 or 16 Simplicity's ( I need to make a list) Some of the JD's are going up for sale and that money will go towards putting the Simple herd back in service. I have 2 Broadmoors, You may recall a post about one I picked up a few months back that needs a hydro. Now the engine is down on the one I had been mowing with. A situation much like I went through with the Agco. All the rest are 3400, 7000 and 7100s. 3 of the 7100s need engines. I have a B&S 16 single that I may swap into one of those. One needs an engine built ( no telling how far down the road that will be) One 7119 with a Magnum 20 in it only needs the deck leveled. I was mowing with it one day and it started "Scalloping" the grass. Something broke I guess. Anyone had this to happen ?

  2 need the double "D" links that connect to the hydro shift lever. and a number of them need rubber drive shaft couplings. Anyone know of a work around for those ? I have a tiller on a 7117 that I plan to remove the tiller and rear lift from and put a 48 inch deck under it. The lift and tiller will then go onto a 7010 six speed.

 So no, I'm not planning to go green though I have gained new respect for some of the JDs. I just have a large amount of work to do / money to spend before I'm back to running simple tractors. I'm still in the market for a Simplicity with power steering and diff lock. Maybe nothing runs like a Deere, But in my book, nothing mows like a Simplicity !

 

 

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I would suspect the deck roller. Has the rod the rollers ride on worn through? On one of my 9020's the rod had worn enough to only have 1/8" left. I would think if you step on each side of the deck, whatever is broken/worn out should expose itself pretty easily.

I picked up a JD316 for $150 because it smoked badly. The OP had put an 18HP Onan upgrade in it years ago. For the last few years, he unknowingly used it with the air cleaner not installed properly and dusted the engine. It still runs fine but smokes badly and uses oil. While the tractor is ok, compared to the Simplicity's the mower deck is terribly, as is the mounting system. It's going down the road to make room for another 9020 :-)

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You bought a good one. I have had several 345’s with the liquid cooled Kawasaki engines. JD’s power steering is more responsive than the design on the Landlord DLX and early Prestige. The seating position and center of gravity is better and more ergonomic than the comparable Simplicity of the time. The rubber floorboards are 3times as thick as on the Simplicity. I bought my used 2011 prestige (full-hydraulic power steering) to replace a 345. Haven’t used it enough to have an opinion on it yet. Mostly use my Landlord DLX with manual steering. 

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22 hours ago, jlasater said:

I would suspect the deck roller. Has the rod the rollers ride on worn through? On one of my 9020's the rod had worn enough to only have 1/8" left. I would think if you step on each side of the deck, whatever is broken/worn out should expose itself pretty easily.

 I have only mowed with it less than an hour since I bought it and it went from mowing level to "scalloped" between one row and the next. That is the reason I'm thinking something broke. But I will check the roller bar etc. Thanks

 

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Hello, as to the rubber drive shaft bushing . Is the aluminum one a replacement for the rubber bushing

They have both  been used in the 7100's.

the aluminum adapter uses the fiber disc's

Thanks Ken

57e059cea08b9_22HPpredatormotor016.JPG.9c6023173c4b759d518eaae4a35d382d.jpg

57e060ddc3199_22HPpredatormotor002.JPG.6f70d8324281cea5c84df82a5b11f4d9.jpg

57e060ddd8ddc_22HPpredatormotor003.JPG.e2aac7702184d25aae3fe46b9e0ac5d7.jpg

Edited by maxwood
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On 7/1/2023 at 8:11 PM, Tarheel said:

need ...... and a number of them need rubber drive shaft couplings. Anyone know of a work around for those ?

The rubber couplings used to be fairly available on eBay and priced reasonably but not anymore from what I've seen.  

Although I've seen pics of a couple of installations using long spacers from the engine adapter to the flexible coupling disk, I don't think that's a great idea since the longer the spacers are, the more they tend to twist.  

When the rubber spacers were no longer available, Al Eden's Triad to Command conversion kits used the following setup:

image.png.5cde2d134316f32c5890e82dc90e6aa1.png

I think the total length of the spacers is 1-3/4", the effective thinkness of the rubber coupler.  

 

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3 hours ago, maxwood said:

Is the aluminum one a replacement for the rubber bushing

No, the rubber coupling is a replacement for the fiberglass disk; some pics:

IMG_5564.thumb.jpg.166a5f10e49488f6ce70b3d44f3f73fc.jpg

IMG_8429a.jpg.b531dbd3ba9d1fae20d7b7b1eebf79c7.jpg

Centering is by the long driveshaft nose inserted into the engine adapter.  The rubber coupling takes the torque.  I believe they were developed to minimize vibrations shortly after the Sovereigns were KT powered.  The earlier 7117 version Sovereign used short spacers (no driveshaft nose).  

 

 

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Hello, I guess what I meant to ask ,is the cast iron adapter and the rubber donut

equal to the aluminum adaptor and flex disc? 

Thanks Ken in Mi

 

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