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Cone Clutch PTO


Brettw

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Well, I have questions.  I will preface this by saying my problems are fixed.  The bearing for the drive pulleys in the PTO of my 7119 failed.  I had spare assemblies and changed everything out, go to go.  But, I wonder about the bearing / bushing assembly at for the PTO.   Is that bearing pressed in?  And has anyone replaced one of these assemblies?  About $ 250.00 on parts Tree.

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Brett I have replaced these bearings without the bronze sleeve. Timken #1014KRR. After discussions with @Bill725 he uses a different bearing & presses in a bronze sleeve. 

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9 hours ago, ShaunE said:

Brett I have replaced these bearings without the bronze sleeve.

So Shaun, are they pressed in?  How exactly did you replace them.  Are they pressed in from the "backside"?

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My bearing is 7/8” ID. The bearing Bill used is 1” ID. He pressed in the bronze sleeve sourced I believe from a local hardware store and then cut or “faced” the length to match the width of the race. The last PTO bearing I bought through Briggs had a sleeve but it was NOT bronze like the old ones were. The discussion was… Does the sleeve protect the shaft from wear or doesn’t it. Was the sleeve added due to the 7/8” bearing being difficult to find? 

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@BrettwThe bearing is a Fafnir 1100KRR, 1" X 1-3/8" long bore, with pressed in bronze bushing an Oilite AA-1008-2, 7/8" ID X 1" OD X 1-1/2" long. I use an arbor to press the bushing into the bearing so the ID does not crush. You have to press the bushing in flush with the non-collar end of the bearing so you can chuck in lathe to face the bushing from 1-1/2 to 1-3/8 long. If you would like to use my arbor, let me know.

At Motion Industries, bearing $80.77 (less expensive on eBay), bushing $3.68 for a total of $84.45.

Simplicity P/N 1650254SM is NLA!

20230720_071506.jpg

Edited by Bill725
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Thanks to all.  However, I am still uncertain of how the bearing itself is installed.  I understand the bushing is pressed in.  But is the bearing pressed into /out of the pulley assembly?

Edited by Brettw
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1 hour ago, Brettw said:

But is the bearing pressed into /out of the pulley assembly?

In my limited experience, it's a very light interference fit.  It was harder to get out; a hammer and a piece of wood did the trick if I remember correctly.

Once all the dirt is cleaned out of the hole, the bearing goes in with minimal effort. 

IMG_9586.thumb.JPG.3c8e4a1e4f937668edc03031d6f55411.JPG

 

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4 hours ago, ShaunE said:

The discussion was… Does the sleeve protect the shaft from wear or doesn’t it. Was the sleeve added due to the 7/8” bearing being difficult to find? 

My 2 cents.  I'm thinking the bearing was a Simplicity special.  I base this on the thickness of the hub of the inner race.  These pics compare a Simplicity part vs a standard 7/8" bearing (notice the sleeve in the Simplicity bearing isn't bronze):

IMG_9591.thumb.JPG.02a988ea396356f6620d957a15300f4c.JPG

IMG_9592.thumb.JPG.b2015ad0a759c0e6a00821edd4952a37.JPG

To my old eyes, the hub thickness appears about the same.  So I think originally Simplicity had a special bearing made.  

However based on this pic of the part from Jack's (March 2019), I'd say the newer Simplicity supplied bearings are 1" with a sleeve:

Jacks.jpg.62d701860a8f85c401fe770e4d5b4597.jpg

Note the larger hub thickness and part number.

Maybe @Bill725 is Simplicity's supplier?  666

 

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I was interested in this topic and have a question.

Is it possible to set the sheave casting in a heater to enlarge it? Therefore you have an easier assembly. I set a ring gear in an outdoor propane grill on high for 30 minutes and she slipped right on the flywheel in this manner.

Hope this helps

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Thanks again.  So, not necessarily pressed in, but a good snug fit.  And it appears as though it would be inserted through the "backside of the pulley assembly, the engagement spring load keeping it always in place.  I had the one assembly I could use when the old assembly failed, but have a few others, one that is missing the bearing assembly.  I never gave any of these an all out assault to remove a bearing assembly as I had no need to, but this latest failure made me curious as to how to install a new setup.  Thanks again for all of the knowledge, as is usual when questions are asked on this site. So many well informed individuals always willing to help.  Always, and still, the best 10 bux I spend each and every year.

Edited by Brettw
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