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Dutch

PTO Clutch Warning

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Dutch
This has been discussed before, but it's worth repeating for new members. The cone clutch PTOs on RBTs are normally engaged. When you flip the PTO lever to disengage (stop) the mower deck or tiller, you are compressing the PTO spring. If linkage breaks, or a cotter pin falls out, or engine vibration moves the PTO lever........ BAM, the deck or tiller is engaged and the blades start to spin. DON'T EVER trust a clutch and reach under a mower deck or tiller with the engine running. ********** The reason I thought about posting this is because I just finished hooking up a Weed Cutter. Those were only made for a few years, back before RBTs. The Weed Cutter used mechanical linkage to loosen and tighten the drive belt (clutch). To stop the 4 exposed blades from spinning, 2 stiff wires were used to keep the belt near the PTO pulley so centrifugal force wouldn't permit the belt to contact the pulley (what a poor and dangerous design). That contraption had to go, but I didn't want to use a cone clutch for the above reasons. So, I located an electric clutch (Smilin' Sam). Electric clutches are normally disengaged so there's very little chance they will engage by accident.

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BigSix
Dutch: Thank you, as I do aspire to try one of the Dutchmobiles (newer iron) one day. Another point on PTO afety/malfunctions, on the 60's Landlords, (at least mine) the center PTO was very loose, as many of the holes in the bracketry are eggshaped to varying degrees (I assume this is because no one ever lubricated them, and the natural belt vibration hogged them out?). Anyway, when going up ANY incline at all, or even sitting still, running, on a slight incline, the PTO would flop rearward, just enough to partially engage. I first of all put the brackets back on with flatwashers/lockwashers, and replaced bolts as needed, then oiled the "eggholes" to prevent further wear, and now there is just enough tension on the mounting bolts that the PTO stays were you put it. The guiderail was bent, also, so it didn't used to stay engaged, either. Now it works great. I figure a little oil, and bolt tightening once in a while, if necessary at all, will prevent further wear, and since it works fine, I didn't see the need to fill the holes with weld and redrill--what do you think? Anyway, my point was simply to AMPLIFY yours--NEVER trust a PTO, of ANY style, even the mechanical ones, not to get you. Peter

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Roy
Dutch, Does it help service life of the cone clutches if you leave them engaged when the tractor is just sitting?? Also, a while back you gave me some tips on how to check the cone clutches because mine always "squalls" when engaged. Could you repeat that or tell me when to find the original post? Thanks,

Roy

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Dutch
Roy, My tractors don't sit idle long enough to make a difference. Theoretically, I suppose engaged would be better. Start a new thread and I'm sure you'll get different opinions. Vaguely remember the other. Did you try the "Search" function? Archives?

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Al
Hi, The squall on engaging the cone clutch is normal. When you engage or disengage the clutch there 4 linings on the plate or ring that pulls the pulley back. they BRAKE the pulley. When you engage or disengage the clutch, either the brake pads or the cone lining has to slip until there is slack in the system. When engaging these units one should do it VERY quickly the same with disengagement. The quicker the less wear on these 2 items. Trying to do it slow just wears both items. Be smart engage it smartly. Good luck, Al Eden

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    • thedaddycat

      thedaddycat  »  SmilinSam

      It's in pretty sad shape, but yes I have a yellow plastic cap that I'm fairly certain is what you need. PM me your details and I'll get it out to you.
      · 0 replies
    • Paul M.Murphy

      Paul M.Murphy

      Try this web site for the previous message I reported that did not work for you guys. 
      The message is about a man in Arkansas who builds miniature vehicles out of old refrigerators that are drivable.
      https://youtube/L4MpBPXojF4
       
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